A81 Torch Damage

[everlastsupport]

Kinda reminds me of a fellow moving too fast on the cut,,,thereby having it splash back up into the torch,,instead of cutting. Been there, done that myself..

Ditto. Done that as well with the A81 no less. And when you get in some corners and angle and can not reach.

[undercut]

No different than diagnosing a car engine problem, computer problem or electrical problem ... you ALWAYS need to know when the last time it worked, how did it behave then, if anything changed since that time, what (exactly) steps you were doing when you encountered the difficulty, how does the behavior now differ from the last time it worked. It really does aid those trying to help you.

Actually, the above came from the IT department where I worked. It's really universally applicable to anything that goes wrong.

[performance]

It appears to be a water/technique related issue. Or it could be oil in the line as well. When you see those black swirls on the consumable, that is an indicator of water/oil in the line. You MUST have a separate filter in line. The water trap is there to trap large slugs of water and debris, not to dry the air. The melting is from excessive heat on the torch head, which could have something to do with technique, especially if you are piercing a lot and blowback is coming from the surface. The melted standoff, would point to that as well. This is the only thing I can think of that would cause this UNLESS the pilot arc isn't transferring and you are only making a slight mark in the top of the metal.

[redbeard]

The melted standoff, would point to that as well. This is the only thing I can think of that would cause this UNLESS the pilot arc isn't transferring and you are only making a slight mark in the top of the metal.

Would the pilot arc really have the balls to do that to the cup and standoff?

First thought I had was piercing or technique as well. I know when I first got mine, I just wanted to see what 60A would do to a 1" piece of metal, to hell with practicing on thin stuff first.

[performance]

Would the pilot arc really have the balls to do that to the cup and standoff?

First thought I had was piercing or technique as well. I know when I first got mine, I just wanted to see what 60A would do to a 1" piece of metal, to hell with practicing on thin stuff first.

Sure it would. The pilot arc is still 20+ amps and around 10,000 degrees. I've known guys to cut 1/8" metal or more with it. If it's moving too fast or the work clamp isn't making good connection the flame would spread out instead of down, on thick metal, blowing molten metal everywhere.

[Rectified]

This was one cut of a car hood about 1'x 1' needed a chunk to match the paint up with another hood. As I was coming around with the torch the stand off rotated on the containing nozzle and a slurry of sparks hit it.

Would the pilot arc really have the balls to do that to the cup and standoff?

First thought I had was piercing or technique as well. I know when I first got mine, I just wanted to see what 60A would do to a 1" piece of metal, to hell with practicing on thin stuff first.

[Rectified]

Im sure it is all of the above except the pilot arc. That seems fine. I do hear a little zap when I first turn the machine on coming from inside the case. That is off topic. I pretty much set up like the book says to, pull the trigger in the air make sure a rainbow blasts out, and set the guide to the work pierce and go.

It appears to be a water/technique related issue. Or it could be oil in the line as well. When you see those black swirls on the consumable, that is an indicator of water/oil in the line. You MUST have a separate filter in line. The water trap is there to trap large slugs of water and debris, not to dry the air. The melting is from excessive heat on the torch head, which could have something to do with technique, especially if you are piercing a lot and blowback is coming from the surface. The melted standoff, would point to that as well. This is the only thing I can think of that would cause this UNLESS the pilot arc isn't transferring and you are only making a slight mark in the top of the metal.

[Rectified]

Here is another good saying, "You cannot troubleshoot a woman."

No different than diagnosing a car engine problem, computer problem or electrical problem ... you ALWAYS need to know when the last time it worked, how did it behave then, if anything changed since that time, what (exactly) steps you were doing when you encountered the difficulty, how does the behavior now differ from the last time it worked. It really does aid those trying to help you.

Actually, the above came from the IT department where I worked. It's really universally applicable to anything that goes wrong.