CK 130 Flex Loc Torch

[Rambozo]

I was going off the spec sheet I found on the ck website for the 2 series torch in a short configuration. Look here and click on the 2 series accessories and consumables link.

http://www.ckworldwide.com/flex-loc.htm

Thanks for the tip on a gas saver kit ill get one of those too, but I really think a short head would be helpful in a lot of circumstances.

On the page you linked to, you can also see that 8A6 cups must be used with the 6CB collet bodies.

You can use that gas saver kit, but you can also use the normal gas lenses with the screw on cups. For example a 2AG6 cup with a 2GL332 gas lens and a 2C332 collet.

Be aware that although the short hardware does make the torch smaller, it's not much in the 2 series, maybe 1/4" or less. The real difference is when you are using the 3 series, then the short parts are much shorter than the normal. The thing with short parts is that they don't dissipate the heat as well so you have to back down the amps, shorten your welding time, or both. They are great when needed but not the hardware you want to leave on all the time. For example on a 17 torch you can go with about 150 amps, but with short hardware anything over 100 amps starts to overheat things pretty quickly. With water cooled torches this isn't as much of an issue, but with gas cooled, it happens a lot faster. I thought I had a better example, but here you can see how the cup actually starts to melt down from too much heat. If the cup melts, bits of it will fall into your weld puddle and you won't be happy.



If you are new to TIG welding I would advise starting with standard parts, either regular or gas lens. There is a reason they are the standard. They will be much more forgiving and easier to learn with. Once you have more actual welding time, you will better know when to use more exotic parts. For real tight places, like inside intake runners, you will want to use a 24 torch anyway.

Checkout Welding Tips and Tricks for examples of how a regular gas lens will let you extend the tungsten to get into tubing joint corners. That will be make a much greater difference than torch length. And switching back caps will shorten your torch by over an inch, so do that for sure. The downside is that you have to run a super short tungsten that you will not be able to regrind more than a few times before it's too short to fit. Not the best thing for someone just learning as you will probably be regrinding your tungsten quite a bit until you get enough practice. You should get plenty of practice on things that don't need perfect welds, and be sure of your skills, before moving on to something like a rollcage where lives are on the line.