Rods to have on hand... which ones?

[zoama]

I can't speak on the stick part but you may want to add 308 and 309 stainless filler for tig.

[Trip59]

I can't speak on the stick part but you may want to add 308 and 309 stainless filler for tig.

Yup, actually 308, 309, and 316 (most of my stainless work is medical grade product in 316l). Those cost more than I have on hand and I need to knock some rust off my TIG skills before jumping in there.

[Brian Ski]

Been a while since I used stick but for general use I have 6013. 1/8" or 3/16"

Just a heads up unless you are using a lot of rod I bought a few of these plastic canisters. They are larger than a can of tennis balls. Red plastic and have a screw top with a rubber gasket. I toss in a pack of desiccant that I got when I got something in the mail and they have been good for many many years. I bet they hold 5lbs or so. I picked them up at the welding store. I use 2 for the stick rods (2 different kinds) and one for brazing rods. You can even write on the outside of them with a marker.

I know you are hearing a lot of talk about reconditioning rods, but if they are sealed or not getting them used from some old timer you shouldn't have a problem. Yea you can get a better deal buying a 100lbs at a time but are you going to use that much??? Unless you keep them in the rain or doing mil spec stuff rods should be good for several years at least. More if you store them in the containers like I mentioned.

[Trip59]

Been a while since I used stick but for general use I have 6013. 1/8" or 3/16"

Just a heads up unless you are using a lot of rod I bought a few of these plastic canisters. They are larger than a can of tennis balls. Red plastic and have a screw top with a rubber gasket. I toss in a pack of desiccant that I got when I got something in the mail and they have been good for many many years. I bet they hold 5lbs or so. I picked them up at the welding store. I use 2 for the stick rods (2 different kinds) and one for brazing rods. You can even write on the outside of them with a marker.

I know you are hearing a lot of talk about reconditioning rods, but if they are sealed or not getting them used from some old timer you shouldn't have a problem. Yea you can get a better deal buying a 100lbs at a time but are you going to use that much??? Unless you keep them in the rain or doing mil spec stuff rods should be good for several years at least. More if you store them in the containers like I mentioned.

Being in FL, with the humidity and constant rain, 7018's would be a headache. I'm only talking a few to 10lbs of each on hand. Those dessicant packs, well, they're as thirsty or less thirsty than the flux coating on rods that are affected. Like trying to dry carpet with a towel, at a certain point, you'll hit an even mix, probably not as low as you want.

May not be doing mil-spec work, but that's where I learned (USN HT) and I'm a bit of perfectionist. I'm looking to avoid the re-conditioning, I'd rather store proper to begin with, or as close to it as possible without an oven.

[SeanMurphy265]

Try 7018ac they are not affected by moisture the same as regular 7018.
I always keep one extra roll of mig wire.
3/32 & 1/8 7018ac, 7014, because I use it the most. I have some 5/32 rods. 6011 and 6013 I keep some of those.

[Brian Ski]

Being in FL, with the humidity and constant rain, 7018's would be a headache. I'm only talking a few to 10lbs of each on hand. Those dessicant packs, well, they're as thirsty or less thirsty than the flux coating on rods that are affected. Like trying to dry carpet with a towel, at a certain point, you'll hit an even mix, probably not as low as you want.

May not be doing mil-spec work, but that's where I learned (USN HT) and I'm a bit of perfectionist. I'm looking to avoid the re-conditioning, I'd rather store proper to begin with, or as close to it as possible without an oven.

Yea I am the humid zone here... Midwest. Even the tools in the garage can get a coat or rust. That is why I like those rod holders... Try this link. I am not endorsing these guys. This is just a quick link I found. Mine are very close to this but red.

http://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.co...ECTRODE/Detail

I think this is the best way to store. I usually open it up take a couple rods out and reseal. I also pitch or keep on the bench the used rods.

[KSmith]

I couldn't help but look at harbor freight for those rod storage containers. Seems pretty cheap at $4.99. Maybe not built as stout, but has a gasket. I've never used them, but if I can get in the store I will check them out. http://www.harborfreight.com/welding...per-46477.html

ken

[everlastsupport]

This has been asked many times before.

6010 is not really a rod you will use a lot and the unit will do it if you can do it. More of a you thing...

6011, 6013 and 7018 are probably all you need. On SS 308 (I use 316) but it all works well.. Then get the diameter based on the metal thickness.

[Scotty1]

Pick up an Old Fridge and put in a 60 Watt light bulb
Keeps the humidity out
I use the same setup to dry Cupels before Conditioning Firing (Takes 3-4 weeks from wet to dry) otherwise they explode @ 600'C

[EchoSixMike]

I keep a pile of stuff on hand, but the basics I'd say are 6011's for general repair and tacking, 6013's or 7014's for sheetmetal and thinner stuff, I use 308SS rods for disimilar or unknown ferrous metals, your higher end (316's)SS rods work fine too but the 308's are fairly inexpensive. Put "maintainance rod' on the label and prices goes up at least 3x. S/F.....Ken M