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  1. #1

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    Quote Originally Posted by EchoSixMike View Post
    Is that holding the spring shackle? I think with metal that beat and corroded, I'd fishplate the frame section before I'd weld a nut to that questionable frame. S/F....Ken M
    It was a little surface rust. That's actually how it came from the factory. I cut the old ones off and put those in the same place. I think it was a late 70's model jeep.
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    I found some SS (18-8) 1/4-20 flange nuts locally. It amazes me how much the prices differ, on place thay are $.50 ea and the other is $16 for 50 ($.32 ea). The SS 1/2-13 coupling nuts are $5.15 ea one place and $2.30 another. Iguess it pays to shop around. The square nuts in stock are $.70 ea, wow way to much so I went with the flanged nuts.
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  3. #3
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    If I have access I like to use a countersunk screw to hold things, because it will self align to the center of the hole. Otherwise you sometimes have the bolt drag a side and it will be stiff. I couldn't find a 1/4-20 square nut handy, but here is a #10-32 as an example. Two sides are probably stronger than the screw, but if you want, you could do all four. Just let it cool a little in between. Because of thermal expansion and cooling, after this was welded and had cooled, I could spin the screw out with my fingers.

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    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

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    I'm planning on using a bolt to line up the holes and tack two sides of the nuts and see how that goes. I will post pics this weekend.
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by NRM View Post
    I'm planning on using a bolt to line up the holes and tack two sides of the nuts and see how that goes. I will post pics this weekend.
    How do you like your Evolution Rage 2? I've been cutting a lot of 1/4" tubing and it's getting time to upgrade my HF chop saw.
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  6. #6

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    One issue with with square nuts is that they are generally softer than even a grade 5 and have a grade 2 rating. Even though welding a nut removes some of the strength, it doesn't completely destroy the quality, and hardened nuts are welded all the time in the industry for this type application...Unless you can verify the hardness of the square nut, I wouldn't use it for welding.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    One issue with with square nuts is that they are generally softer than even a grade 5 and have a grade 2 rating. Even though welding a nut removes some of the strength, it doesn't completely destroy the quality, and hardened nuts are welded all the time in the industry for this type application...Unless you can verify the hardness of the square nut, I wouldn't use it for welding.
    My local bolt store has them in both grade 2 and grade 5, but not grade 8. However, I can get flange nuts in grade 8 if needed. It all depends on the application and the size as to what kind of fasteners you select. For some jobs 1/4"-20 grade 2 is fine, for other 4"-4 grade 8 is not enough!
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Makes me want a TIG setup .... Any chance of me being successful at tacking a nut using a stick welder and a thin, fast freeze electrode? Can't try at the moment.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by undercut View Post
    Makes me want a TIG setup .... Any chance of me being successful at tacking a nut using a stick welder and a thin, fast freeze electrode? Can't try at the moment.
    There's no reason one couldn't use stick to weld nuts to a surface. Well, I wouldn't want to try tacking #8's, but a 1/4" nut (7/16" wrench) can be tacked easily enough. On a nut that size I'd use 1/16" rod, or 5/64. Tack it opposite sides, work around, alternating sides. Lean towards the thicker of the two metals you are joining. No sarcasm intended really, but it's not rocket science (in tribute to an old friend, Ray Bradbury, who died at 91 yesterday).

    ken
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by KSmith View Post
    (in tribute to an old friend, Ray Bradbury, who died at 91 yesterday).
    Ohhhh. I didn't even hear about that. After looking, I see that CNN has the news. Clueless yahoo and msn haven't been updated yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by KSmith View Post
    There's no reason one couldn't use stick to weld nuts to a surface.
    Wasn't sure if the higher amperage of stick would warp the nut too much or not. Thanks. I'll need to give it a try - have a few items where welding the nut in place would be useful. Probably better alternatives for me to use but hey, any chance to weld is good, right!
    Last edited by undercut; 06-06-2012 at 07:23 PM.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

    Everlast PowerTIG 185 Micro IGBT AC/DC Welder

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    Sean I really like my rage 2. I cut a lot of SS aso I got the 90 tooth blade and it cuts well.
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