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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by posixPilot View Post
    So, you did not use any filler? Just washed the base metal onto the nut? I may have to try that, as my welds came out really cold when I used filler. I probably had a hard time getting the heat focused because I was concentrating on jamming the filler in.
    I usually use a little filler, but just get the puddle going good on the base metal before steering it towards the nut. Sometimes I use flange nuts, then you can just weld the flange and that's pretty easy, especially for sheet metal. It all depends on what kind of task you're asking of the nut. I'm a big fan of welding nuts onto items that get bolted together, so you can tighten the bolts with one tool. For that application I just need to keep the nut from turning, so a couple of deep tacks will do the job. If you are going to have more strain on the nut, you will prolly want a little more than that. However, if you weld two sides of a square nut, that will probably exceed the strength of the bolt, so welding all around is a bit of overkill. I don't usually have any problem in running a bolt in afterwards. 1/4" is a lil small, so keep a tight arc and watch the heat.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  2. Default

    Thanks for the tips especially the square nut tip and I will be using SS nuts. I am going to see if I can get some if not I will use the standard nuts. I think I will use the bolt to line up the hole, tack it, remove the bolt and then finish the weld. I will use 1/16th tungsten and start the puddle on the coupling nut then flow the puddle into the nut. I’ll post pics of the outcome next weekend.
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  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NRM View Post
    Thanks for the tips especially the square nut tip and I will be using SS nuts. I am going to see if I can get some if not I will use the standard nuts. I think I will use the bolt to line up the hole, tack it, remove the bolt and then finish the weld. I will use 1/16th tungsten and start the puddle on the coupling nut then flow the puddle into the nut. I’ll post pics of the outcome next weekend.
    don't waste any time backing that bolt out.

  4. #4

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    I did this on a jeep. I cut the old ones out and put some new ones back in. The first on I had to run a tap through it, and the second worked perfect. The second nut I turned the bolt up and down several times while it cooled down.


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  5. #5
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    Now that I think about it, I'm guessing that you are welding the 1/4" nuts to the sides of the coupling nuts, right? So why not just drill and tap the 1/4-20 holes in the coupling nut?
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  6. #6

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    Welding nuts is fairly easy but you do have to take precautions...but you may only need to weld a side at a time if they are overheating. And also try to find some unfinished nuts if you can. That cadmium coating isn't doing you any favors. A plated bolt will cause issues as well if it is overheated while in the nut. The cadmium will start to cause it to seize to the bolt. One other suggestion is to coat the internal part of threads with anti spatter or Hi temp anti seize compound before you start welding. Be careful not to smear it into the weld area.

  7. #7

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    Is that holding the spring shackle? I think with metal that beat and corroded, I'd fishplate the frame section before I'd weld a nut to that questionable frame. S/F....Ken M
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  8. Default

    Rambozo yes I am weldinf the 14/"-20 nuts to the side and I did think about threading the coupling nut. These are SS and the wall is very thin not thick like a zinc plated coupling nut. This is why I decided to weld the nuts on. I'm going to see if I can get some flange nuts locally. I will check the dimensions and see if it will fit on the coupling nuts.

    Mark is there such thing as unfinished SS nuts?
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