
Originally Posted by
jakeru
I've ran into stainless alloys that work harden like crazy. Not all of them do. Didn't know what alloy it was, (it was a scrap I was fabricating something out of), but it sure was real tough to work with.
To reduce the amount of work hardening that happens, don't let the blade "rub" without biting in. Deforming or "smearing" the surface without actually peeling some amount off is what will make it harden. If your blade twists sideways if you use more feed pressure, you might need to pump up the blade tension to make the blade more rigid. Also, might help to keep the blade from twisting if you move the blade guides closer together (if they are excessively apart.)
If you need to add extra feed pressure beyond gravity alone, you could always hang a weight off the end of the saw arm.
Glad someone brought it up, 300 series stainless alloys work harden like magic. Don't be gentle, you have to get a bite and run with it. Any gentle cuts or rubbing will give it a skin you'll flatten teeth trying to get through. Once this happens, best bet is to rotate it and approach it from another angle. Better blade, better lube, more aggressive, more tension.
What are you using for cutting lubrication?

Originally Posted by
EchoSixMike
A lathe isn't an option? S/F....Ken M
Parting off that material on a lathe would take one hell of a machine. Parting requires a very rigid machine, parting that diameter of that material, you want something tough as nails, not an import, or Atlas, or even a SouthBend under 14/16 (and even that size may fight it).
On the other hand, were it me, I'd hit it with whatever would cut it, then face it true on a lathe. Even a home-shop grade machine should be able to handle facing it. Parting is a whole other story.
Trip Bauer
Former USN HT
Everlast 200DX New Model
Hobart Handler 125 MIG
Van Norman #12
Atlas 12" engine lathe
'98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead