Lens # choice?

[Trip59]

With my 200DX on the way, I have to figure out how to get going, the welder tapped me out, I don't have another $100-$150 for a helmet at the moment. That said, I do have two helmets sitting here, a Hobart #10 auto darkening (fixed) and a large window traditional style with I believe a #10 or #11 (I have to look, it's my 'bystander' helmet for MIG work.

Anyone have a 'safe' chart? I know there's personal preference, some like a 9 for TIG to N-amps, other say this, or that, etc. I'll put extra lighting if a darker shade than I can see easily is recommended, no problem adjusting to the situation.

What I'm trying to figure out is what shade will work for arc at what power, what shade will work for what TIG, etc. If darker than #10, can I throw a pair of lighter goggles on under the auto helmet and 'stack' them? Hopefully only a month or two and I'll order up an Everlast helmet, but I have to figure out how to get a tank and consumables or the helmet is just going to collect dust.

I have some damage and side effects from welding in the Navy with a cracked (couldn't tell) lens, not looking to add to it.

[DaveO]

Here's a link to Miller's chart:
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...Helmet-For-You

...but I don't know about "stacking" goggles inside a helmet. It's disturbing to hear about a cracked lens causing eye damage, too- if I can add to the scope of your post, how do you check for a cracked lens, or does a lens have a "lifetime" that you automatically replace it?

[Trip59]

Turns out it was dropped and placed back... found out it was cracked after a full day of welding, I was bitching about the flash burn and someone else had run into it before, so he removed the lens and it fell apart in pieces. The cover lenses were a bit dirty/scratched, so we never noticed the fine lines.

Interesting, that chart is different than a couple others (internet is a wonderful place... it's why I asked for a recommendation, to find a reliable chart)

According to that, the #10 Hobart I have that's rated for arc/MIG/Flux core, is almost too light for the max amps on my little 125, assuming I saw the full 125 out of it.

Other references I saw recommended no less than a 13/14 for any Aluminum TIG, but this chart makes no differentiation.

EDIT: Forgot to add, the Navy specifies checking the lens prior to welding... common practice was to check it during normal PMS routines, reality was it was checked far less often.

[Rodsmachineshop]

Flash burn hurts like heck got it a couple of month ago from a bad helmet. feels like sand in your eyes and any light hurts couldn't go out side for about a week just hid in my darn room

[Trip59]

Flash burn hurts like heck got it a couple of month ago from a bad helmet. feels like sand in your eyes and any light hurts couldn't go out side for about a week just hid in my darn room

Been there, done that, too damn many times. What I want to know, what fuggin moron decided light green was a good color for a jacket? Worst burn I got since the Navy was welding up a brush guard for a friend's truck. Couldn't figure it out... then I realized it all of a sudden, it was reflecting up when I was in any position where my hood wasn't touching the jacket hard.

[Rodsmachineshop]

lol i wear black or white when welding i use a rear helmet cover since weld a lot out side it keeps the light out from coming in back of helmet and glare

[Rodsmachineshop]

I bought this helmet from northern tool love like it better than my higher priced helmet cant beat the price hi a good review only 65 buck same here my eyes are messed up also , http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...0403_200480403 same helmet that was shown on welding tips and tricks

[posixPilot]

I bought this helmet from northern tool love like it better than my higher priced helmet cant beat the price hi a good review only 65 buck same here my eyes are messed up also , http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...0403_200480403 same helmet that was shown on welding tips and tricks

I have this helmet (the flames peel off) and it has been pretty solid for stick/TIG. At first I had an issue with the autodark dropping out on TIG, but then I realized that there was a sensitivity setting that fixed the problem.

Cheers
Mike

[hokiefd]

I have this helmet (the flames peel off) and it has been pretty solid for stick/TIG. At first I had an issue with the autodark dropping out on TIG, but then I realized that there was a sensitivity setting that fixed the problem.

Cheers
Mike

I was considering the same helmet... When you say that the autodark "drops out", do you mean that lens was no longer shaded?

[posixPilot]

I was considering the same helmet... When you say that the autodark "drops out", do you mean that lens was no longer shaded?

Correct, the desired shade level of 10 (or whatever you have set) suddenly drops to the default shade level 4 just as if I stopped welding. There is a sensitivity setting, and somehow I rationalized that I ought to set it to low. This worked fine for stick, but TIG would occasionally drop out. Apparently the setting was designed for use when multiple weldors had arcs going in the same room. Setting sensitivity to high resolved the problem.

Cheers
Mike

[undercut]

Correct, the desired shade level of 10 (or whatever you have set) suddenly drops to the default shade level 4 just as if I stopped welding. There is a sensitivity setting, and somehow I rationalized that I ought to set it to low. This worked fine for stick, but TIG would occasionally drop out. Apparently the setting was designed for use when multiple weldors had arcs going in the same room. Setting sensitivity to high resolved the problem.

Cheers
Mike

Documentation for a lot of helmets is basically non-existent or worse, makes you think the opposite of what is intended. Took me a few reads of the manual and then googling to find that out too.

[hokiefd]

Correct, the desired shade level of 10 (or whatever you have set) suddenly drops to the default shade level 4 just as if I stopped welding. There is a sensitivity setting, and somehow I rationalized that I ought to set it to low. This worked fine for stick, but TIG would occasionally drop out. Apparently the setting was designed for use when multiple weldors had arcs going in the same room. Setting sensitivity to high resolved the problem.

Cheers
Mike

Good to know. Thanks Mike.

[Winky]

You can tell by how your eye's feel ... I only have one eye and i have depended on this for decades ... if it hurts your eyes go to a stronger shade ... an 11 is great up to 130 amps a 12 ... 150 or so ... it depended on the type of welding ... SMAW - GTAW what ever ... Rule of thumb ... if it hurts ... it aint good.

[Rambozo]

The basic rule has always been to use the darkest shade that will still let you see what you are doing. Virtually any good filter will block all the UV and IR that does the most damage. Everyone is a little different as to the best filter level for each job. Also this does change with age somewhat. The Navy did some tests many years ago that showed only 18 year old kids have the best night vision because their pupils can dilate the most. They used this research to design binoculars for night watch on ships that would gather the most light for that size pupil.

[Slartybartfa]

Does anyone know why some of the auto-darkening welding shades' literature say specifically that they're not suitable for TIG or plasma cutting? I have a cheap (HF) auto-darkening helmet that I've had for probably 10 years and it's worked fine for stick and MIG. It's never dropped out, always worked great. So why would TIG welding be any different?

[Trip59]

Does anyone know why some of the auto-darkening welding shades' literature say specifically that they're not suitable for TIG or plasma cutting? I have a cheap (HF) auto-darkening helmet that I've had for probably 10 years and it's worked fine for stick and MIG. It's never dropped out, always worked great. So why would TIG welding be any different?

From everything I've read in the last week, most likely it's set to shade 10, which won't cover the whole range and they're trying to avoid someone TIG welding AL at 300 amps suing them for wicked flash burn...

[Slartybartfa]

It's adjustable from shade 9 to 13, so it should cover TIGging even on aluminum at the high end. However I just noticed a discrepancy between what they say on their website and what the manual says. The website says it's suitable for TIG and plasma as well as stick and MIG. But there are two cautions in the manual that say "not for TIG or plasma cutting." Don't know why that would be. However, I have another helmet with #13 shade that I can use in the meantime.

[posixPilot]

Does anyone know why some of the auto-darkening welding shades' literature say specifically that they're not suitable for TIG or plasma cutting?

The sensors on some of these helmets are not able to pickup the light from TIG and especially plasma. There was a thread a couple of months ago about someone having this exact problem with a helmet (HF helmet, I believe). This is what I thought was going on with my helmet until I found the switch.

Cheers
Mike