Quote Originally Posted by jakeru View Post
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, geezer. Unfortunately, it's not so easy. I have already adjusted the swing of the arm to be perpendicular to the table surface (as well as to the fence.) But it still doesn't prevent the blade from twisting and veering in the middle of the cut. What I can see is, the blade veering off in a crooked cut channel. Then by the time the blade gets to the bottom of the cut, it can be off (sideways) quite a way from where it would usually be.

That's a good idea to leave the support arms in the same position. But I don't think that's going to solve everything either. The problem is that the cut is inconsistent depending on the geometry and material being cut, feed rate, etc.

I have a new idea as to what the problem may be lately. Blade tension! The way you set the blade tension (according to the owner's manual) doesn't leave much to question, so I've never, until just now, thought it might be off. There is a spring that you are supposed to compress to 1/4" before you tighten the idler wheel, which sets the blade tension. However, here is what I'm thinking... maybe after 50 or so years (or however old these saws are) that tensioning spring has taken on some "sag"! And further along those lines, the .025" blade may need more tension that the .020" blade the recommendations are provided for.

I think I'm going to try ordering a new tensioning spring and see if it's different than the used one!

Just *feeling* the tension of the blade (by grabbing it and giving it a wiggle - purely subjectively) it sure seems to me to be a little on the loose side. When I set up say my hacksaw, I set it up a lot tighter (so tight I can "twang" it.)

The more I think about it, the more it makes sense! It wouldn't surprise me if Hooda has only tried setting up his blade tension with the owner's manual 1/4" spring distance, and probably is on his original spring like me also.

Are there are generic guidelines for bandsaws as to how much tension to set up their blades with?

I think I'll try measuring the force on the original tensioning spring in it's "as installed" position.
Sorry Jakeru, I forgot to mention the most important part of the tune up... blade tension,,,most people have difficulty with the tension,,,rule of thumb tighten uptil you think it is right then give it another half turn and it is probably still loose...a properly adjusted blade will loose tension over night or during a cut that heats the blade,,also when cutting flat bar or anything,,how you place it in the vise will determine the cut ,,,flat bar on edge will produce poorer resuts than flatbar on the flat,,
not too many people get right into tuning their band saws etc,,,those that do get the best results..