185 Micro Goes Bang!!??!?!?!?!?

[D2junky]

just checked the point gap......was nearly closed. I'm guessing theres some heat going into these points during operation and the gap was close enough that it was closing down and the cause of the sputter. Ill fire things up and post the results.

As an aside while im pissin and moaning......spend the extra bucks on some quality screw for the case.. im using a properly sized phillips drive and every damn one of them is so soft that after about two turns they strip.

[D2junky]

I've tried the frequency all over the place to see if that changed the problem. Acts pretty much the same bottom to top. More noticeable at higher frequency. Work clamp is as close to the weld as possible on stainless brushed and cleaned metal. Clamp is always grounded to the work piece. And am usually at the 9 o'clock positioni on AC balance.

[performance]

Before they were too loose, now they are too tight. That seems to be a constant battle. They are small screws, and do not tolerate overtorquing or cross threading. I typically keep a bag of quality fasteners from Fastenal close at hand to replace mine, or any that I work on. We have discussed that issue at the factory...Hopefully with a little more pressure we can get items like those resolved. It a major rework of the suppliers for changes like these...and it takes more time to fix the small issues than the big ones.

Edit: Clamps can be defective or the bolt holding the cable or the lug at the bolt can be oxidized...creating issues. That is why I suggest removing the clamp, and directly grounding the lug if you can to try it. Likely its primarily the gap issue. On AC, if the tungsten becomes contaminated, it can create the arc destabilization as well.

Are you trying to ball your tungsten? Using it in the negative side right?

[D2junky]

Not trying to ball it and yes using it on the negative side. I actually get much better arc performace with a tapered tip. I get really nice welds once the arc starts until it started sputtering but I think it was the gap issue as much as anything.
I understand on the screws and suppliers. I completely understand when you buy a bin of screws you better use them up and it can be a bitch to switch the small things. I'm a big fan of allen or torx heads and since point gap maintenance is a common deal with any TIG i'll be replacing my screws with such.

[D2junky]

And i hope it don't come across as being to much of a pain. I love this little machine and understand how stuff happens. The features are great and lead me away from a diversion. I"m a hardcore hobbiest at best but would like to perfect my skills before I jump to a bigger machine.

[D2junky]

After alot of screwing around tonight with collets cups tungsten gas glow etc. etc. I finally unplugged the damn pedal and tried things just using the switch on the torch. Nice stable arc and nice stable arc start right off the bat. Tried with the frequency turned all the way down and up and AC balance everywhere in between and its a nice steady arc all the way with no spitting sputtering etc. I been fighting this damn pedal the whole time and never once thought to unplug and go back to the torch switch. Makes me wonder if it was the cause of the original kaboom. Unfortunately im still screwed on progress for this weeks project as welding .062 3003 aluminum with no foot pedal is a bitch and a half. I'll be in touch tomorrow with you Mark to see what we can do on the pedal and lets hope they aren't all this bad. As long as you are in the last half of the pedals range things work fine but the first half sucks.