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Thread: Tig welding custom cut bend pipes

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  1. #1

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveO View Post
    Sure looks like you nailed the fit-up, and I'd say fairly impressive for your second time out of the gate.
    Yeah, I'd say... Looks real good!
    Everlast PowerPlasma70
    Hobart Ironman 230
    Lincoln A-D/C 225
    'Classic' Everlast Powertig 200DX 'We don't need no steenkin pre-flow..'
    jakemateer.com

  2. #2

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    Very nice job.
    I sure hope when I get my Tig that I can weld like that starting out.
    Any pics of what it is going into.
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

    Miller Matic 185
    Thermal Dynamics Pak Master 38xl
    Everlast 250EX

  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brad3579 View Post
    Very nice job.
    I sure hope when I get my Tig that I can weld like that starting out.
    Any pics of what it is going into.
    Yeah you can just read as much as you can that is how I started. I think I read for like 3 years before I had the cash or knowledge to do anything. Then its just seat time. (I need tons more). Ill get some pictures together soon !

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jake98 View Post
    Yeah, I'd say... Looks real good!
    Thanks a lot I hope to have better work to show ever one soon !

  5. #5

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    Instead of making tons of posts in a row spaming, you can quote multiple in one post. Anyways good job on the custom cuts. How well did that tape hold them together while you tacked them?
    Jason
    Everlast 255EXT - Perfection
    Everlast PowerPro 256 - UPS Demolished
    Everlast MTS200s
    12 Ton Shop Press
    DeWalt Hand Tools/ChopSaw

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jason View Post
    Instead of making tons of posts in a row spaming, you can quote multiple in one post. Anyways good job on the custom cuts. How well did that tape hold them together while you tacked them?
    Good idea that Ill do that next time !

    Thanks I made a little jig out of wood to hold the pipe while I cut it. The angle was approximate but it seams to hold close to 15 degrees.I sanded them pretty well and they matched up almost 100% flushed so the tape didn't bind them that tightly. It just held them there for a couple of tacks then I just tore it off.

  7. #7

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    For a hoot, go make your posts on Weldingweb and especially mention that you used an Everlast machine. They will be so busy bashing you for your choice of machines, that they will never get around to breaking your balls about your welds. You could really start a shitstorm there with just one short post.
    Some of the crap I use to keep busy:

    Everlast 200DX
    Millermatic 211 Mig
    Hypertherm Powermax 30 plasma cutter
    Lincoln Weld-Pak 100
    Century Stick welder
    Oxy set-up with Henrob 2000 torch
    Logan 200 lathe (60 years old)
    Jet band saw
    About 6 Harbor Freight grinders with different discs/wheels/brushes

  8. #8
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    Looks like a great project for learning to weld thin stainless tubing to me.

    The fit-up must have been very good if you welded all that autogenously. If you don't need maximum strength of a "built-up" weld bead, there is nothing wrong with autogenous welding, imo. Welding autogenously can allow dramatically increased travel speed and along with that, a reduction in heat input.

    It is challenging to maneuver around a tube. You will find with additional practice, you will be able to get around the tube with fewer "stops and starts". i.e., you'll be able to weld longer seams at a time, and pivoting your torch (filler rod if applicable), and point of view more each time.

    The solar flux when it gets up to temperature, melts and shields the stainless underneath, and then solidifies into that black glassy stuff you see on the inside of your tubing. Assuming you got the solar flux evenly applied everwhere on the back side of the weld, then if you see a spot on the inside of the tubing where the solar flux didn't get up to temperature (no black glassly stuff but you still see the grey powder of the unactivated flux), it means you didn't achieve enough heat to melt the metals and fully penetrate the weld bead through to the back side in that spot.
    '13 Everlast 255EXT
    '07 Everlast Super200P

  9. #9

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    The fit-up must have been very good if you welded all that autogenously Ok are you trying to impress or confuse me with big words lol
    Bill

  10. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe from NY View Post
    For a hoot, go make your posts on Weldingweb and especially mention that you used an Everlast machine. They will be so busy bashing you for your choice of machines, that they will never get around to breaking your balls about your welds. You could really start a shitstorm there with just one short post.
    No way Joe I do not want to get people making fun of me lol. I am not insecure or anything I just want valid input and not trolling remarks. Once I get really good with the EL Tig Ill post stuff on there and link it here to see what people say!
    Quote Originally Posted by jakeru View Post
    Looks like a great project for learning to weld thin stainless tubing to me.
    The fit-up must have been very good if you welded all that autogenously. If you don't need maximum strength of a "built-up" weld bead, there is nothing wrong with autogenous welding, imo. Welding autogenously can allow dramatically increased travel speed and along with that, a reduction in heat input.
    It is challenging to maneuver around a tube. You will find with additional practice, you will be able to get around the tube with fewer "stops and starts". i.e., you'll be able to weld longer seams at a time, and pivoting your torch (filler rod if applicable), and point of view more each time.
    The solar flux when it gets up to temperature, melts and shields the stainless underneath, and then solidifies into that black glassy stuff you see on the inside of your tubing. Assuming you got the solar flux evenly applied everwhere on the back side of the weld, then if you see a spot on the inside of the tubing where the solar flux didn't get up to temperature (no black glassly stuff but you still see the grey powder of the unactivated flux), it means you didn't achieve enough heat to melt the metals and fully penetrate the weld bead through to the back side in that spot.
    Wowowow Thanks Jakeru I didn’t even know what I was doing when I welded this! Autogenously welding is when you fuse 2 materials together without filler material (Wikipedia just now). Yeah this pipe will have almost no weight on it and it will be suspended by the engine there should be no stress or strain on it. And the pipes were cut from a wooden jig in a band saw I made. Then I sanded them until I couldn’t see any light between it and tape it togeather.
    I noticed that I was able to move very fast after I got the hang of it. I figured out the angle that I should hold the torch and it was really easy after that. If I had to add filler I would have been very slow.
    Thanks for the info on the solar fulx! All I knew is that it’s supposed to shield the weld so I don’t get that sugaring or chunky black stuff called Carbide Precipitation. I figured trying to back purge something small like this would be way too hard. I thought that black glassy stuff in the inside of the pipe was still carbide precipitation but its solar flux after it changed. It goes all the way around the weld so I guess I got it on the pipe pretty good! I scraped away the black glassy stuff and there is shiny metal underneath so I don’t believe I have any carbide precipitation at all. Thanks for the info Jakeru!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by 67cudafb View Post
    The fit-up must have been very good if you welded all that autogenously Ok are you trying to impress or confuse me with big words lol
    Read this Cuda this is where autogeanously welding is explained I learned something new and I didn’t even know I was doing this at all!
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_tungsten_arc_welding

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