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Thread: Tig welding custom cut bend pipes

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  1. #1

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    What's this piece used for ?
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  2. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zoama585 View Post
    What's this piece used for ?
    Trying to make a down pipe for a homemade turbo set up. Also going to attempt to make a full exhaust. This was really a preliminary test if I could even do anything with this machine ( my second time trying to tig weld ). Trying to save some money by not having to buy mandrel bends since one 180 degree pipe can be like 50+ depending on diameter. I just cut them and bend them myself out of one pipe. Not to terribly concerned with smooth flow since that will increase the cost of this project exponentially. I know it is not the best way to do it nor the easiest way but I am going to try !

  3. #3

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    Just in case you need some of this stuff... http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...+bends+2+1%2f2

    Cutting this one in half would yield two tight radius downpipes for $23 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IMM-548660/
    Last edited by zoama; 02-04-2012 at 09:47 PM.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  4. #4

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    when your welding stainless you should always use filler. even if you dont need to. the reason being that when you weld stainless, you creat alot of heat in one area, and being stainless, it doesent move that heat very good. SO in your HAZ (heat affected zone) becasue you have such high heats, you can get carbide percipitaion. basically the worse thing to have on stainless. ADDING filler whilst you weld actually decreases the weld puddle temperature thus reducing the chance of CP.
    Journeyman welder
    250EX
    Power plasma 60
    horizontal band saw
    Miller digital elite 'wicked' lid

  5. #5

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    Sorry if your looking for bashing you need to go to miller forum. EL members do not bash or be little other members just share there knowledge and try to help each other. I can tell you there is some smart and talanted people here and willing to help and help you be a better welder.
    Bill

  6. #6
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    1,323

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    LOL! Cuda, you beat me to it. Sorry, Vinhtec, we don't bash here, altho we can direct you to some other sites. Sure looks like you nailed the fit-up, and I'd say fairly impressive for your second time out of the gate. What kind of vehicle gets the turbo when it's done?
    DaveO
    Oxweld oxy acet gear
    IMIG 200
    PowerTIG 210 EXT... Amazing!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveO View Post
    Sure looks like you nailed the fit-up, and I'd say fairly impressive for your second time out of the gate.
    Yeah, I'd say... Looks real good!
    Everlast PowerPlasma70
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    'Classic' Everlast Powertig 200DX 'We don't need no steenkin pre-flow..'
    jakemateer.com

  8. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveO View Post
    LOL! Cuda, you beat me to it. Sorry, Vinhtec, we don't bash here, altho we can direct you to some other sites. Sure looks like you nailed the fit-up, and I'd say fairly impressive for your second time out of the gate. What kind of vehicle gets the turbo when it's done?
    I am a Honda guy. I have a little 95 civic sohc engine that I am doing a home made turbo to. I got bunch of free stuff from friends just trying to make it work. I plan on making it a daily driver and as long as I dont goose it too much the car should make decent power and gas mileage! Thanks I got good advice from some one here on fit-up and it worked out great ! I am trying hard to get it moving a long Id really like to make something that works soon that be amazing !!!

  9. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 67cudafb View Post
    Sorry if your looking for bashing you need to go to miller forum. EL members do not bash or be little other members just share there knowledge and try to help each other. I can tell you there is some smart and talanted people here and willing to help and help you be a better welder.
    Thanks I wont go to the Miller forum ever. I been bashed before for no reason and I love to stay away from that. I hope that talented people show up on my threads and give more pointers I got this far with good old fashion advice taken serious!

  10. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jerky View Post
    when your welding stainless you should always use filler. even if you dont need to. the reason being that when you weld stainless, you creat alot of heat in one area, and being stainless, it doesent move that heat very good. SO in your HAZ (heat affected zone) becasue you have such high heats, you can get carbide percipitaion. basically the worse thing to have on stainless. ADDING filler whilst you weld actually decreases the weld puddle temperature thus reducing the chance of CP.
    Yeah thanks ! I read that feeding wire in helps the temperature stay down a lot when welding stainless. This time was mainly a practice attempt. I am still really slow and cant get good body position to move fluidly. I have a small spool of left over 308L stainless weld wire (or something) from a mig welder I am going to feed that stuff into the weld next time. I read somewhere that the silica in it or something helps keep it cooler. I just need tons more seat time to practice feeding wire and moving. Its also hard since the pipes a curved thing and not flat it makes it harder. Ill keep trying though.

  11. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jerky View Post
    when your welding stainless you should always use filler. even if you dont need to. the reason being that when you weld stainless, you creat alot of heat in one area, and being stainless, it doesent move that heat very good. SO in your HAZ (heat affected zone) becasue you have such high heats, you can get carbide percipitaion. basically the worse thing to have on stainless. ADDING filler whilst you weld actually decreases the weld puddle temperature thus reducing the chance of CP.
    Yeah thanks ! I read that feeding wire in helps the temperature stay down a lot when welding stainless. This time was mainly a practice attempt. I am still really slow and cant get good body position to move fluidly. I have a small spool of left over 308L stainless weld wire (or something) from a mig welder I am going to feed that stuff into the weld next time. I read somewhere that the silica in it or something helps keep it cooler. I just need tons more seat time to practice feeding wire and moving. Its also hard since the pipes a curved thing and not flat it makes it harder. Ill keep trying though.

    I am not sure about Carbon Precipitation but I read this.

    http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=1177

    Yeah looks like elevated temperatures will allow the chromium to form carbides when the temperature is elevated. Ruining the corrosion resistance and making it brittle. This stuff makes sense since I have taking a material science class on grain boundry formation after elevated temperature and this makes perfect sense. When the grain boundaries reform the chromium and the carbon from carbides on the surface.

    Doesn't solar flux prevent this? I see much less black chunky stuff inside the pipe in comparison to when I welded with out it.

    Do you know what temperature the weld would be with out filler and with filler? Looks like the range is like 425 - 800 C with 700 C being a critical temperature. I guess Ill get a pyrometer to measure it with and with out filler. Ill have to test it I guess.

  12. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zoama585 View Post
    Just in case you need some of this stuff... http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...+bends+2+1%2f2

    Cutting this one in half would yield two tight radius downpipes for $23 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IMM-548660/
    Yeah but this was 304 stainless that's why it was expensive I know that the lower end metals like that are cheaper but not good for weather resistance and stuff. Thanks for that Ill save it just in case I ever decided to do any aluminumized steel pipes.

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