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Thread: Stick welding thin wall SQ tube

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  1. #1

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    7014 is the "sheet metal" rod and runs quite well on sheet metal. I've had good luck running 7014 3/32 on 12g sheet metal. Sometimes you may have to speed up a little keep from burning through your metal.
    Last edited by SeanMurphy265; 01-30-2012 at 04:59 PM. Reason: spelling
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  2. #2

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    Sean,

    Do you recall what settings you used with the sheet metal? I have been running DCEP with the 6013 1/16", which I thought should be putting less heat into the base metal. I don't have any 7014, but I'll try to find a small box and see how it runs.

    Thanks
    Mike

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by posixPilot View Post
    Sean,

    Do you recall what settings you used with the sheet metal? I have been running DCEP with the 6013 1/16", which I thought should be putting less heat into the base metal. I don't have any 7014, but I'll try to find a small box and see how it runs.

    Thanks
    Mike
    78-79 is the lowest I have ran, but you have watch your speed. Stick welding on sheet can put down a nice bead, but you may have to run fast.
    Lincoln Eagle Engine Drive
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    HF 20 Ton Shop Press
    HF 4x6 Band Saw
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    Northern Tool Drill Press


    www.murphywelding.com

  4. Default

    When ya weld it you will have to concentrate your heat on the thicker peice. When using the 3/32 keep it angled more towards the thick peice weaving into the thin piece. That sould help with the blowing through. And with the 1/16 rods you really just have to move slow. Also have too have a bigger weave to get the weld wide enough to hold on both sides. As before giving the thicker piece more heat. If your welding quite a bit of it then maybe look for some 5/64. They are hard to find but prolly bout the right thickness.
    Gabe
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  5. #5

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    Fellas,


    Sorry for neglecting the thread ... I've been traveling, and I just got back in town last night. I finally had some time to take another crack at it today.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jake98 View Post
    The occasional spark down behind your ear is good, builds character, get in closer for a good look.
    Jake, you must have been looking over my shoulder I have my head close enough that I get 3 or 4 in my helmet on every rod I burn

    Quote Originally Posted by Jake98 View Post
    Do you have a magnifier lens in your helmet?
    I don't, but I think I'll look into getting one ... on a couple of the beads I ran today, I was able to see a distinct puddle (like a bubble in the slag), so the magnifier might help me keep it in view.

    Quote Originally Posted by bobwills View Post
    And with the 1/16 rods you really just have to move slow.
    Gabe, I tired moving really slow today (with the 1/16") and increasing the weave, and I was able to get better fusion between the pieces. But, it was still incomplete ... I think the slag is getting between puddle and the base metal, so I end up putting down a irregular bead instead of fusing the pieces. I ran a couple of flat beads with the 1/16" just to check out the speed:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I thought these looked pretty good. I ran these one after another, each is about 1.5" long and each consumed a 1/16" rod. When welding into a "tee" joint, I've been slowing down ever further, laying down maybe 1" of bead and weaving.

    I'm not sure why, but I have fewer problems with slag inclusion if I use 3/32" rods. I've been able to back the amps down to 52 with the 3/32", which I think will keep me from blowing a hole in the tube. I need to get out there and practice some more .

    Thanks
    Mike
    Power Pro 256

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