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Thread: 250EX Questions

  1. #1

    Default 250EX Questions

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    I recently purchased a 250EX and have been enjoying it so far. I have a few questions that I'm sure can be answered by others "in the know".

    Is there a "cheat sheet" or can we make one that has ball park settings for different thickness materials? 1/8" aluminum = XXX amps/XX polarity/XX bias/etc.

    I been successfully laying a bead on aluminum from 1/8" down to the top of a can. It's not pro quality but thats more to do with my hand finesseness. Anyway I was wondering why when I end my bead even with the pedal released I still have a arc? Im unable to stop the arc completelyetly and end up pulling away the torch that leaves a deep pit in the crater at the end. I'm sure its a simple adjustment somewhere? Also looking at getting a smaller torch? Is the everlast 20 a good one or should I get a weldcraft?
    Aloha from Hawaii
    PowerTig 250EX
    A wallet that still has something in it from the great value I got!

  2. Default

    Miller has a welding calculator... http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...calculator.php
    Everlast has a welding calculator... http://www.everlastgenerators.com/ti...calculator.php

    Jody of weldingtipsandtricks.com http://www.youtube.com/user/weldingtipsandtricks
    Has a really nice series of videos about the 250ex, and welding aluminum in general.
    Here is a search for his vids of the 250ex.
    http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...ricks+everlast
    One you might be perticualry interested in is where he runs a bead on the bottom of a pop can with it, and gives the settings he used. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX_sepp9T_M

    The problem you're having sounds like you need to turn your upslope/downslope/startamps/endamps to the fully counter clockwise position, and make sure the switch is set on 2t.

    As for the 20, I cannot speak to the Everlast unit, but whatever you get, make sure it has soft rubber hoses vs vinyl or you will have a stiff cable and end up defeating half the purpose of getting the smaller torch.

    In case you've not seen it, there is a pdf manual for the machine that is much better than what was included in the box. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/do...wertiggen2.pdf
    Last edited by parkour; 12-16-2011 at 07:50 AM.

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the info. I have reveiwed most of the links before the purchase.I think I just need more "road time' on this beast. As for the endamps I tried it all the way down and it still had arc when the pedal was let go.
    Aloha from Hawaii
    PowerTig 250EX
    A wallet that still has something in it from the great value I got!

  4. Default

    Oh, then the switch in the pedal possibly needs to be adjusted.
    With the machine off, hold the pedal up where you can hear any noises it makes.
    Press the pedal as if you were going to start welding, then let go of it as if you were done.
    You should hear two clicks; one when you press on it, and one when the pedal returns to its starting position.

    The more I think about it, the less I think this is the issue.
    You would have HF going constantly, gas flowing... it would be a mess.
    Last edited by parkour; 12-16-2011 at 11:14 AM.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by yamafreek View Post
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    I recently purchased a 250EX and have been enjoying it so far. I have a few questions that I'm sure can be answered by others "in the know".

    Is there a "cheat sheet" or can we make one that has ball park settings for different thickness materials? 1/8" aluminum = XXX amps/XX polarity/XX bias/etc.

    I been successfully laying a bead on aluminum from 1/8" down to the top of a can. It's not pro quality but thats more to do with my hand finesseness. Anyway I was wondering why when I end my bead even with the pedal released I still have a arc? Im unable to stop the arc completelyetly and end up pulling away the torch that leaves a deep pit in the crater at the end. I'm sure its a simple adjustment somewhere? Also looking at getting a smaller torch? Is the everlast 20 a good one or should I get a weldcraft?

    The #20 torch that came with my EXT is very nice, it has a denim cover and moveable trigger. Not sure if it's the same one they sell seperate. It's better than the 18 that came with my 225 in every way. The 20 will need water, even at low amperages.
    Todd

  6. #6

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    I bought the Everlast #20 torch and Love it! A lot easier to use than the one supplied with the 250EX, just less bulky. AND, everything hooks up, with some other brand torches you will have to find fitting or make something work.

    It does sound like a Downslope thing? Also, you want to hold the torch on the weld when you finish until your post flow stops.
    Some guys at welding class would run the bead of weld then back track over the bead about a half inch so they didn't get the "butthole" at the end of the weld. I have been just dabbing extra filler rod at the ends to fill the hole before it forms.
    PowerTig 250EX
    Power I-MIG 200
    Power Plasma 50
    It's what you learn, After you know it all, that counts!

  7. #7

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    The issue is that the arc dont stop until I pull it away? I will check the downslope etc. But I think I checked it allready. I thought the downslope was only in 4t? Im using the pedal?
    Aloha from Hawaii
    PowerTig 250EX
    A wallet that still has something in it from the great value I got!

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yamafreek View Post
    The issue is that the arc dont stop until I pull it away? I will check the downslope etc. But I think I checked it allready. I thought the downslope was only in 4t? Im using the pedal?
    2T for pedal

    And if your in 4T then that could be the problem....
    PowerTig 250EX
    Power I-MIG 200
    Power Plasma 50
    It's what you learn, After you know it all, that counts!

  9. Default

    If the downslope is full left and it is in 2t mode, you can try switching it to 4t as a test... perhaps the switch was not installed correctly at the factory.

  10. #10

    Default

    If it is in 4T... He hits the pedal and it starts his upramp and then when he lets off the pedal it doesn't turn off, it's waiting for the next "command", which is to go to full amperage, right?
    PowerTig 250EX
    Power I-MIG 200
    Power Plasma 50
    It's what you learn, After you know it all, that counts!

  11. #11

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    Yep. 4T is a disaster if the pedal is connected.

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by parkour View Post
    If the downslope is full left and it is in 2t mode, you can try switching it to 4t as a test... perhaps the switch was not installed correctly at the factory.
    I seem to have control of the arc in 2t with the pedal. I will however check with use of the 4t/hand switch @ the gun. I'm sure its something simple that I can work out. Put it this way. I'm still amazed I was able to lay a sloppy bead or any bead on the bottom of a soda can as well as .025" aluminum this soon!! If there is a problem with the switch I can fix that.

    My question is if I should get the wife more mad at me and pick up a WP20 torch??? Is the sale still on?
    ;-)
    Aloha from Hawaii
    PowerTig 250EX
    A wallet that still has something in it from the great value I got!

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    Yep. 4T is a disaster if the pedal is connected.
    I cant say my welds are anything to write home about but I dont think they are a disaster.
    Well unless I had the pedal to the metal and similated a swtch in the closed or open possition? Like I said I will try it out when I have time. I'm just about out of gas so it may have to wait.
    Aloha from Hawaii
    PowerTig 250EX
    A wallet that still has something in it from the great value I got!

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