Everlast 250 EXT TIG WELDER

[redbeard]

Yes, quite large indeed. Thanks for the preview!

Any idea what the weight is?

How is the manual?

[DVA]

Yes, quite large indeed. Thanks for the preview!

Any idea what the weight is?

How is the manual?

Welder shipping said that it was 160 lbs. I would assume the welder is about 100-120 lbs.

[performance]

132 according to factory specs.

As far as a transformer? lol...go look at a syncrowave or a PT 225lx from lincoln.......then pick one up. They do have wheels though. I've tried to tell people these weren't light weights in any manner.

[Oleg]

Guys .. manual uploaded !

link http://www.everlastgenerators.com/manuals.php

[todmorg]

Thanks again!

Can I use my 225LX pedal for testing on this unit?

[performance]

should work.

[DVA]

I removed the top off of my welder and the ground is just inside the top cover and can be easily removed. I already have a 50 amp plug end and will pick up an 8 gauge extension cord at the hardware store. It should be 8 gauge wire, current plug provided with the machine is about 13 gauge.

Also what is mint by running the water back into the machine? The 250EXT has water lines that allow the water to be hooked up from the back of the machine and connect to the torch in the front side of the machine. I will not use this feature as if any leaks develop it will spray water inside the cabinet. Plans are to build a cart with a built in water cooler in the cart. I will just plumb the cart to feed the water lines out the torch side of the welder for easy connection.

[todmorg]

Mine just arrived, a few questions-

1- what are the orange tube, the blue tube, and the 2 prong thing with the chrome ring?

2- where is the pedal and the flowmeter/regulator?

3- Is this the proper power cord? It is marked 16amp-250volt.
the cord itself is marked 2.5mm. that is between 12 and 14 gauge

4- should the individual strands be exposed on the power cord where it enters the welder?

5- There is no switch on the back for remote control / panel control, how do you switch?

[performance]

Ok...
Couple quick notes of explanation... The unit does not come with a cord as a factory standard item and was a point of confusion that we identified before they shipped the units. They threw it in in a hurry to get things shipped. It'll work though. Notice the effective current draw. That combined with the NEC's specifications for derating their standards for duty cycle limited machines means it should be well within the standards. The I1max is a temporary start up demand not likely to heat up the wire or cause issues. Where you see it connected to the rear, that is where it was originally intended for the customer to take over. When we figured out what was going on, we asked them to put a cord on the end of the machine. Its a first shipment and there is always going to be minor issues like this. The cord is fine if you cut the plug, but I'd suggest that customers put their own on the unit, tying in at the back. Green/Yellow is the ground on this line. Other two are hot. This is a european plug. Wire is fine though. The piece of plug you have in the box WAS the original plug that was used for the orginal test design, without a foot pedal. They included it because they were going to include it anyway. The line I believe, is for installing the water line back into the unit, which we deleted...for safety concerns. Other than that, I have no idea and should have no bearing on the operation or use of the welder.

The switch missing on the rear was a last Second change quite literally before they shipped. We sent our specs on our foot pedal and they had a different one they wanted to use. Theirs needed a switch, ours do not...ours are wired so that the plug itself acts as a switch when the unit is plugged in...

Edit, yellow wire is connected internally inside. It should be screwed to the case inside...however, originally the third slot there was going to be for customer attachment of ground, but when they put the plug on it, they just went and connected directly. If you see the manual, that is how it should/would have been connected and it should still be capable if you'd like. 8 gauge is a suggestion, not a requirement. Post up pics IF you do decide to change it.

[todmorg]

Well,

I've got a couple hours on it and it is working great. So far the cord size seems fine, but I will switch to a longer cord with a different strain relief.

There is a flow sensor in the incoming water line, is this to protect the torch? Does it limit the amperage somehow? I am using gas cooled with no water flow and it seems to work fine.

[performance]

No, if you have that, its a solenoid to start/stop water flow I think. It should not limit amps. Pressing and holding the select button for three seconds should discontinue it if it still seems to be functioning.

[todmorg]

I looked under the cap of the flow switch ( the bright red cap in the photos ), and it is a coolant flow detection switch, there is a normally open microswitch mounted above a plunger. It is not a relay or solenoid to control or stop the flow. It closes the microswitch sending a signal to the large control board on top when there is water flowing, thats why I was wondering if it throttles the amperage when there is no flow, for torch protection.

[performance]

Again Todd, I have the specs on that. It is a solenoid to stop and start the water flow. I can't remember how it is designed, but I know that it works as such. Pressing and hold the select switch for more than 3 seconds actually deactivates it. You yourself said it is mounted above a plunger. It may actually stop water flow when it is deactivated for use with a air cooled torch. But its not a sensor according to the factory information I have on it.

[todmorg]

Again Todd, I have the specs on that. It is a solenoid to stop and start the water flow. I can't remember how it is designed, but I know that it works as such. Pressing and hold the select switch for more than 3 seconds actually deactivates it. You yourself said it is mounted above a plunger. It may actually stop water flow when it is deactivated for use with a air cooled torch. But its not a sensor according to the factory information I have on it.

A picture can be worth a thousand words, when I push with the knife blade, the switch contacts close.