If you want a quick, easy solution to your Super200P's torch problem, get the chinese-made WP26 aircooled torch I mentioned that has an M16 threads on the machine end. Like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200A-WP-26-S...ht_3355wt_1150
And as for how to set the machine up for aluminum, it's easy after you resolve your overheating torch cable problem. Set the switch to AC operation. Set the AC Balance /cleaning knob all the way counter clockwise (spin the top to the left all the way.) That is called the 80% DCEN, 20% DCEP setting. Turn the pulsing switch off. Plug in the footpedal and probably turn the footpedal knob to give you a useful current range, I'd recommend somewhere between 50%-100%. (Knob somewhere between 12 o'clock, to all the way clockwise.) The panel peak current knob is ignored on the Super200P when the footpedal is plugged in, so it doesn't matter where its set. Set the downslope knob to zero (all the way counter clockwise) if you want the arc to stop as soon as you lift the pedal (I usually do.)
If you have a melting cable, stop welding the moment it starts overheating and contaminating your shielding gas. You will notice a degradation in the cleanliness of the weld puddle when this happens. Continuing to weld will not be pretty... Wait and let it cool. Pre-heating your work can help it get further before it overheats. Upgrade your torch, you won't believe the difference.
'13 Everlast 255EXT
'07 Everlast Super200P