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  1. #1

    Default Deer Field Dressing Knife

    Well I'm working on a deer field dressing knife...
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    The knife is stainless steel 1/16" thick 12" long and 1.25" wide.
    Not done yet... I still have to make a wooden handle and sharpen it...
    Will post more pictures later...


    Using this as my fifth project.
    Benjamin

    Owner of IMIG 200 and half owner of Power Plasma 50

    https://www.facebook.com/BenjaminRootPhotography

  2. #2

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    do you do lots of wood work as well? and what kind of wood are you going to go with for the handle?
    Journeyman welder
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by jerky View Post
    do you do lots of wood work as well? and what kind of wood are you going to go with for the handle?
    Yes, my brother and I have been doing woodworking since we were little. We do anywhere from custom speaker enclosures (we even install the speakers into the box) to lathing spinning tops. We made a dual speaker sub woofer box with 8" Pyle Blue Wave subs for our cousin. He put it in his car with the factory radio and it sounded awesome. I asked him if they were still pumpin' awhile back and he said "OH YEAH." I'll have to dig up some pics. My brother made a quad 8" PBW enclosure for his truck too lol.

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    Last edited by MigPlazArc; 10-11-2011 at 01:48 PM.
    Benjamin

    Owner of IMIG 200 and half owner of Power Plasma 50

    https://www.facebook.com/BenjaminRootPhotography

  4. #4
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    Default

    Pictures 1 and 3 appear identical, picture 2 looks like the handle tapers more than 1 and 3. Is that a different knife, or is it a trick of the photo?
    DaveO
    Oxweld oxy acet gear
    IMIG 200
    PowerTIG 210 EXT... Amazing!

  5. #5

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    alll three pics have the same nick in the blade, so I'd presume it's the same knife. what'd you use for steel stock and are you planning on hardening it? I've been curious about knifebuilding for a while, but I haven't actually done any yet. well, apart from the time a friend and I forged a sword out some flat stock on his great-grandpa's portable coal forge. good times.
    McGuire Irvine
    Crow Motor Co.

    Lincoln powermig 225 (work)

  6. #6

    Default

    12" seems kind of long for field dressing - I like a short blade some where about 3" - 4" for working in tight spaces. Plus it folds up and is easy to fit in my pack
    sold my miller mig
    got a PT250EX
    saving up for a plasma cutter

  7. #7

    Default

    That looks like a pretty nice start. What alloy of stainless is it?
    Everlast lx225
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveO View Post
    Pictures 1 and 3 appear identical, picture 2 looks like the handle tapers more than 1 and 3. Is that a different knife, or is it a trick of the photo?
    They are all the same knife... It's the way I took the picture. I hade to take the pictures at an angle because it's so shiny that it hives it that brownish look in the pic...


    Quote Originally Posted by ogorir View Post
    alll three pics have the same nick in the blade, so I'd presume it's the same knife. what'd you use for steel stock and are you planning on hardening it? I've been curious about knifebuilding for a while, but I haven't actually done any yet. well, apart from the time a friend and I forged a sword out some flat stock on his great-grandpa's portable coal forge. good times.
    Haha gotta love the good old times... Like it says in the first post 1.25" wide, 12" long, and 1/16" thick. I had it sheared at storm steel...It's 304 grade because they don't have 316. No I'm not going to harden it...But if I was how would you do that? Never done research on it...
    I built two throwing knives awhile back, but I guess I didn't think about trying to harden it...They both bent so I gave up on them after bending them back every 2-5 throws.


    Quote Originally Posted by dgarnier View Post
    12" seems kind of long for field dressing - I like a short blade some where about 3" - 4" for working in tight spaces. Plus it folds up and is easy to fit in my pack
    Yeah it might be...But if it is we have a Super Cut 50 so no problem lol. Gotta start long and shorten because it's really hard to put back on


    Quote Originally Posted by welderdude View Post
    That looks like a pretty nice start. What alloy of stainless is it?
    304 Stainless


    Quote Originally Posted by bobwills View Post
    In my opinion ya need to grind down the curve further to get more of a point cause using it for field dressing poking through the hide and anything really ya need a good sharp pointy tip on it.
    Maybe I should sharpen the back side too.


    Quote Originally Posted by DVA View Post
    What did you use to sharpen the knife? Do you have a belt grinder.
    6" double disc bench grinder. We have a belt sander... I'm gonna use my mom's knife sharpening rod thing to fine tune it.
    Last edited by MigPlazArc; 10-11-2011 at 01:32 PM.
    Benjamin

    Owner of IMIG 200 and half owner of Power Plasma 50

    https://www.facebook.com/BenjaminRootPhotography

  9. #9

    Default

    I was going to say that is awful long!!!! Will it be strong enough since it's 304? I would think you need to harden it somehow?
    Lincoln Eagle Engine Drive
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    www.murphywelding.com

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MigPlazArc View Post
    Haha gotta love the good old times... Like it says in the first post 1.25" wide, 12" long, and 1/16" thick. I had it sheared at storm steel...It's 304 grade because they don't have 316. No I'm not going to harden it...But if I was how would you do that? Never done research on it...
    I built two throwing knives awhile back, but I guess I didn't think about trying to harden it...They both bent so I gave up on them after bending them back every 2-5 throws.
    I missed that it was stainless until after welderdude asked what series it was. unfortunately, you can't really harden 300 series stainless. marstenic stainless can be hardened, though. wikipedia lists 17-4ph as an option, but my guess is that it's going to be incredibly expensive.

    I was looking at using o-1 oil hardening tool steel blanks the last time I looked at making a knife. I didn't pull the trigger on that project, so I can't tell you how it worked out. I'd be inclined to go tool steel for any knife, but having used a set of (nice quality) stainless kitchen knives, I personally think they're about useless.

    Throwing knives are a lot of fun! I should make a couple of them to keep the squirrels in check. now that it's finally rained, they're everywhere.
    McGuire Irvine
    Crow Motor Co.

    Lincoln powermig 225 (work)

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by ogorir View Post
    I missed that it was stainless until after welderdude asked what series it was. unfortunately, you can't really harden 300 series stainless. marstenic stainless can be hardened, though. wikipedia lists 17-4ph as an option, but my guess is that it's going to be incredibly expensive.

    I was looking at using o-1 oil hardening tool steel blanks the last time I looked at making a knife. I didn't pull the trigger on that project, so I can't tell you how it worked out. I'd be inclined to go tool steel for any knife, but having used a set of (nice quality) stainless kitchen knives, I personally think they're about useless.

    Throwing knives are a lot of fun! I should make a couple of them to keep the squirrels in check. now that it's finally rained, they're everywhere.
    Haha! Everlast needs a "like" button...
    Benjamin

    Owner of IMIG 200 and half owner of Power Plasma 50

    https://www.facebook.com/BenjaminRootPhotography

  12. #12
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    Default

    There is a lot of information on you tube about heat treating, forging and knife making.

    Thurmond
    Miller Bobcat 3 Phase,
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  13. #13

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    pretty much any 300 series stainless steel alloy is useless for a knife blade. Even 17-4 ph wont get hard enough to keep a nice sharp edge at a max HRC of 45. 17-7 ph would be a little bit better, it will get up to HRC 49. A good alloy would be something like 440C or 420HC or even S30V if you can afford it. Here is a good website with a bunch of different alloys listed.

    http://zknives.com/knives/articles/knifesteelfaq.shtml

    on a side note, 5160 which is what leaf springs are made form is a very good and cheap alloy for making knives. it can be hardened up to about 60 HRC for a smaller knive or in the mid 50's for something that needs to be very tough. Its also easy to work with. Here's a good link for heat treating 5160 steel.

    http://www.caffreyknives.net/journeymanarticle.html
    Everlast lx225
    Hobart Handler 210 with spool gun
    Hobart Stickmate LX
    Thermal Arc 400GMS
    40 amp Northern Tools plasma torch
    130 chicago electric tig welder
    90 amp chicago electric flux mig
    10"-22" Grizzly lathe
    15"-5.5" Grizzly vertical end mill

    In need of nice TIG machine. drooling over PowerTig 250ex

  14. #14
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    Default

    Just a note, not trying to take anything away from your project, but you're not going to have much luck hardening or heat treating it...

    300 series stainless can only be work-hardened, same with half the 400 series, the ferritic (can't remember all the numbers off the top of my head). The Martensitic 400's can be heat treated.

    That said, I've always preferred non-stainless blades, much easier to get the qualities that make a good knife out of them, and if you play the heat game right, you can get them to hold an edge for quite some time.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
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  15. #15

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    Benjamin

    Owner of IMIG 200 and half owner of Power Plasma 50

    https://www.facebook.com/BenjaminRootPhotography

  16. #16

    Default

    Well here is the finished knife.
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    Normally I would use dowel on the inside of the handle, but since it's just for me... Would have rounded the edges with a router too...
    I found some curly quarter sawn white oak in my mom and dad's show room.
    Yep...I just went in there, grabbed a board, chopped off a chunk, and put it back lol
    Okay...Mom was there when I picked it out...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22uliSrF5xE
    Last edited by MigPlazArc; 10-14-2011 at 02:05 PM. Reason: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22uliSrF5xE
    Benjamin

    Owner of IMIG 200 and half owner of Power Plasma 50

    https://www.facebook.com/BenjaminRootPhotography

  17. Default

    In my opinion ya need to grind down the curve further to get more of a point cause using it for field dressing poking through the hide and anything really ya need a good sharp pointy tip on it.
    Gabe
    everlast power arc 200
    Lincoln electric 225 tombstone
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  18. #18
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    Default

    What did you use to sharpen the knife? Do you have a belt grinder.
    Miller 252
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    ...

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