Alternator welder

[Rivets]

Yeah the diod trio did what i needed it to and thats to make it to where it is controlable by a riostat not by engine speed. And might just need to kick up the amps on charger. And i made it to where the regulater is grounded to the outside so i can just unhook it if i test it with it not grounded so i dont have to take the thing apart again.

Hi Gabe,

The alternator output is determined by BOTH the alternator RPM, AND the Field Current as applied through your rheostat.

Also, remember that at the end of the day, it's not the regulator itself that needs to be grounded, but one end of your rotor coil. The grounding lug on the regulator is just a convenient test point.

One end of your rotor shaft has two copper slip rings and two associated brushes. Electrically, the simplest way is to ground one of the brush wires and connect your rheostat control to the other brush wire. That's it. The regulator has no longer any function electrically and can be completely ignored. It can even be removed if it allows you to perform the brush connections that I just mentioned.

HTH,
rivets

[blasphemy000]

I read your post about you only getting negligible voltage with 2 amps applied to the field. There is something wrong with your setup. If I apply 2 amps to my field I have enough power at the torch to weld .030-.045" steel. I know your alternator has a lower amperage rating than mine does but you should still be more than 1v at the output. I still think you are better off finding a 90A(They make aftermarket ones with more power) Chrysler alternator from a '90s car with the 3.0L Mitsubishi engine. The Chrysler alternators have no regulator and the two terminals on the back of the alternator go directly to the brushes and into the field coils. I think it would be much easier for you to get it wired up and working that way rather than having to worry about the internal mods you are having to do with this one.