Any advice on cutting square tube?

[performance]

To get the MOST out of the PP50, turn the plasma down to about 30 amps. Then get a tri square (also known as a speed square or Johnson). Hold it on the mark, allowing compensation for the torch tip and kerf and use it as a guide. Just drag it across the metal. Flip the tubing and cut the next side. I've done several thousand feet of tubing cuts this way. Its fast and accurate enough. The thing to watch for is that your cuts will match up once you get to the fourth side. Starting on the edge and dragging toward you is safe and effective. With a little practice it will become a seamless motion. The torch arc should start on the radius of the tube, so it won't create much if any blowback.

[EmptyNester]

Most of the feedback drives me to think that a saw is the way to go - I just don't have a chop saw or a metal bandsaw.

I had been thinking that I'd make a wood template that I could clamp on the tube so that I'd get a straight cut across all the angles. I had thought that there might be an issue with starting since starting on the edge would give the entire height of the tubing.

[performance]

Both are tools I have at my disposal. Go get one (chopsaw) from HF for a song, and if you don't push it, it will last. If its small tubing a reciprocating saw will work. Shoot, even a good jig saw will do it. If you have a circular saw, you can by a metal cutting blade for it too. Works fine....Slow and messy, but works fine.

[everlastsupport]

I would use the horizontal band saw as my first pick. Chop saw would be second pick. Like mentioned, $99 and a 20% off coupon and you can pick up a chop saw at HF. A tool you will use a lot, like a bandsaw.

Plasma would be my last pick. Sawzall/reciprocating or circular saw would be in the middle somewhere.

[zoama]

I would get a $79 portaband from Harbor Freight and use the 20% off coupon. You can also make a pivoting stand for it to make it more useful. If you can afford it, a 4 x 6 horizontal is the best choice.

[acourtjester]

Thanks Steve
Sears still has those evolution saws on sale and over the holiday you get free shipping. I got one comming for $279. with tax.
You can never have too many tools.

have fun
Tom

[sportbike]

Thanks Steve
Sears still has those evolution saws on sale and over the holiday you get free shipping. I got one comming for $279. with tax.
You can never have too many tools.

have fun
Tom

We had one of those at work. It was ok for cutting since it has metal guards and reduced issues with clogging. We have found that a 7" commercial worm drive saw from sears seems to work the "best". We typically cut thick aluminum plate (1-2" thick). We also have a Milwaukee plate saw similar to what they have at Lowes / Homedepot (on a vertical stand with roller guides) that does the job fairly well (not a budget item mind you). Believe it or not, my uncle introduced me to the use of a carbide wood cutting blade, called a piranha blade, by black and decker, to cut black pipe when installing gas lines. The teeth have a sort of hook on them and there were 440T on a 7.25" blade. He just used it in his regular circular saw and cut away.

Edit: Looks like they still make the blades.. http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-7.../dp/B00006FRPH

[Jason]

I usually always just use the chop saw unless its a really wide piece. If its too wide for the chop saw then its whatever is quickest being its a grinder, torch or plasma.

[acourtjester]

Mark I have one of those band saws too plus the normal 4" X 6" it is a very good saw. I keep the normal one as that one will not go to verical but it is better to cut angle cuts with. Mine is a different brand (tjl industries) same saw. I think it is better made that the normal 4" X 6".
have fun
Tom

[Steve]

Most of the feedback drives me to think that a saw is the way to go - I just don't have a chop saw or a metal bandsaw.

I had been thinking that I'd make a wood template that I could clamp on the tube so that I'd get a straight cut across all the angles. I had thought that there might be an issue with starting since starting on the edge would give the entire height of the tubing.

Do you have a wood miter saw? You can get metal cutting abrasive blades for them and it does work pretty good. The abrasive blades cost about 12 bucks and work pretty darned good.
I was using a DeWalt 12 inch compound miter saw with one of those abrasive blades and it made some pretty accurate cuts. You have to watch though as the plastic sawdust guard on the back of so many miter saws will melt. All you have to do it take it off.

I've cut tons of metal with that DeWalt and it is just as good as any chop saw I've ever had.

[MigPlazArc]

I would use a chop saw or a mitre saw with a metal cutting blade. If you use a plasma cutter, mark your cut with a square and then use a straight edge to guide you... Also, just use enough amps to get through one side of the metal. I would do a test cut first.

Remember to consider the distance between the plasma flame and the edge of your tip.

[Trip59]

Someone mentioned a base to convert a port-a-band style saw to a horizontal bandsaw type setup. I've been googling and not really found much useful info. Anyone have a resource they've seen? I tacked it on this thread since it pulled from and was related to the posts and topic, but mods, feel free to split it or I can repost it elsewhere.

[everlastsupport]

Search our forums. Here is the first one I found.

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...hlight=bandsaw

[Trip59]

I must be searching wrong... Thanks Mike!

[EmptyNester]

As I said earlier in this thread - based on everybody's advice, I got an Evolution saw. It worked great for the welding cart I made.

I still wanted to try my plasma, but started on angle for my motor mount project. Here's a picture of the wood template I made and the results of a cut.



The initial cuts were really messy, but that's due to my inexperience with the torch. However, got better with every cut until it got reasonably clean. Still not as good as the saw, but I'm guessing I could get it even better with more practice.

[everlastsupport]

As I said earlier in this thread - based on everybody's advice, I got an Evolution saw. It worked great for the welding cart I made.

I still wanted to try my plasma, but started on angle for my motor mount project. Here's a picture of the wood template I made and the results of a cut.



The initial cuts were really messy, but that's due to my inexperience with the torch. However, got better with every cut until it got reasonably clean. Still not as good as the saw, but I'm guessing I could get it even better with more practice.

Make sure you have dry air and plenty of amp to move fast, should come out nice and clean. Not like the Evolution saw, but fast. Save that blade for important projects.

Which Evolution did you get? Looking at (think it was Rage 3) 10" mitre. Wish Amazon would take paypal.

[EmptyNester]

Make sure you have dry air and plenty of amp to move fast, should come out nice and clean. Not like the Evolution saw, but fast. Save that blade for important projects.

Which Evolution did you get? Looking at (think it was Rage 3) 10" mitre. Wish Amazon would take paypal.

I ended up going for the Fury3 with a smaller blade (8 1/4") because it was a sliding compound mitre saw. I liked the added versatility and it was only $150. I figured I could replace my non-sliding compound mitre saw I use for wood with it. Haven't tried it on wood though.

When cutting the channel, I realized that I didn't have the power high enough initially (it was around 20 amps). That made a big difference as I could cut much faster and clean at 30 amps. (That was the last one I cut.) It did make me realize I need a lot of practice, but don't yet have scrap to practice with. But, at least I'm past the "scared of it" stage and at the "healthy respect" stage

I use the air dryer that came with the PP50. I had been on the fence about adding another one. Would you recommend that? If so, any particular style/type/model?