Any advice on cutting square tube?

[jsclark4500]

You can use a chop saw, zip blade on a grinder, bandsaw, plasma cutter, etc. Remember that the mark of a true craftsman is thier ability to turn anything that is not perfect into a work of art. With wood once you cut something wrong you throw it in the scrap pile... with steel you can add more metal via the weld and correct for irregularities. You don't have to get the cuts perfect, just close. The weld and aligning closely will take care of everything else. Have fun and relax....

[DaveO]

In a pinch, you can get a metal-cutting disk to mount in a circular saw- about $4 at a Wal Mart near you. Eye and face protection STRONGLY recommended: since you're usually hunched over the saw I'd hate to have one go bad during operation.

[performance]

Or, if you get a regular discount or wish to smile real nice at the nice lady, you can get the nice thin ones that cut a whole lot faster at fastenal for 1.25 like I did yesterday.

[performance]

To get the MOST out of the PP50, turn the plasma down to about 30 amps. Then get a tri square (also known as a speed square or Johnson). Hold it on the mark, allowing compensation for the torch tip and kerf and use it as a guide. Just drag it across the metal. Flip the tubing and cut the next side. I've done several thousand feet of tubing cuts this way. Its fast and accurate enough. The thing to watch for is that your cuts will match up once you get to the fourth side. Starting on the edge and dragging toward you is safe and effective. With a little practice it will become a seamless motion. The torch arc should start on the radius of the tube, so it won't create much if any blowback.

[EmptyNester]

Most of the feedback drives me to think that a saw is the way to go - I just don't have a chop saw or a metal bandsaw.

I had been thinking that I'd make a wood template that I could clamp on the tube so that I'd get a straight cut across all the angles. I had thought that there might be an issue with starting since starting on the edge would give the entire height of the tubing.

[performance]

Both are tools I have at my disposal. Go get one (chopsaw) from HF for a song, and if you don't push it, it will last. If its small tubing a reciprocating saw will work. Shoot, even a good jig saw will do it. If you have a circular saw, you can by a metal cutting blade for it too. Works fine....Slow and messy, but works fine.

[everlastsupport]

I would use the horizontal band saw as my first pick. Chop saw would be second pick. Like mentioned, $99 and a 20% off coupon and you can pick up a chop saw at HF. A tool you will use a lot, like a bandsaw.

Plasma would be my last pick. Sawzall/reciprocating or circular saw would be in the middle somewhere.

[acourtjester]

Mark I have one of those band saws too plus the normal 4" X 6" it is a very good saw. I keep the normal one as that one will not go to verical but it is better to cut angle cuts with. Mine is a different brand (tjl industries) same saw. I think it is better made that the normal 4" X 6".
have fun
Tom

[Steve]

Most of the feedback drives me to think that a saw is the way to go - I just don't have a chop saw or a metal bandsaw.

I had been thinking that I'd make a wood template that I could clamp on the tube so that I'd get a straight cut across all the angles. I had thought that there might be an issue with starting since starting on the edge would give the entire height of the tubing.

Do you have a wood miter saw? You can get metal cutting abrasive blades for them and it does work pretty good. The abrasive blades cost about 12 bucks and work pretty darned good.
I was using a DeWalt 12 inch compound miter saw with one of those abrasive blades and it made some pretty accurate cuts. You have to watch though as the plastic sawdust guard on the back of so many miter saws will melt. All you have to do it take it off.

I've cut tons of metal with that DeWalt and it is just as good as any chop saw I've ever had.

[MigPlazArc]

I would use a chop saw or a mitre saw with a metal cutting blade. If you use a plasma cutter, mark your cut with a square and then use a straight edge to guide you... Also, just use enough amps to get through one side of the metal. I would do a test cut first.

Remember to consider the distance between the plasma flame and the edge of your tip.

[EmptyNester]

ACourtJester,

Thanks for the insight on the the various degrees of mess. Since I work in an attached garage, that is really a consideration.

It does sound like a bandsaw is the way to go.

Rege

[performance]

IF you want a good one for a cheap price, here is the one I bought to use. (and subsquently loaned out my taiwan made HF to a friend). The metal never moves to cut angles. That's a space and time saving feature. The head does and it has a nice cam tightening vice. After having the kind you have to swing the metal all around its very nice, and angle cuts are made accurately with a degree by degree scale and pointer. The ONLY complaint is that the idler wheel is a bronze bushing instead of a bearing...But the guides and everything are much heavier. I think the bushing is oil impregnated, but I put a shot of lithium up there every once in a while anyway. So far no problems...Oh and when/if you get it, it can be coaxed to cut 6 inches. http://www.agrisupply.com/product.as...6103&sid=&eid=

[Steve]

If you are doing plate steel, sheet steel or aluminum or any other plate or sheet that is conductive, then a plasma cutter is the way to go. For tubing, angle and rod, plasma cutters just aren't designed for that type of cutting.

I have a friend who owns a fabrication business and I asked him what he cuts his bar, angle and tubing stock with. I expected to hear a megabuck band saw or a 3 phase liquid cooled cold saw. His answer really surprised me. His shop has 8 Evolution Rage 2 cold saws.
He said that he could have invested well over 5K on a water cooled cold saw but it would have slowed down production for each man as they would have to wait to get on the saw.
And a breakdown on one machine would stop production. So he bought 8 Rage 2's and is really happy with them.

Here is a Youtube link to their video on it......http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyPT2...eature=related

The Rage cuts without sparks or coolant and uses a special blade that lasts for over 1000 cuts. It has a 3 year warranty including the blade. It can do compound miter cuts and is extremely accurate with no machining needed on any cuts. Very, very smooth cuts.

Here is the link......http://www.evolutiononlineshop.com/s...t%20Off%20Saw/

For around $420, I think it is a great deal. It's next on my list of tools to have. I found that Sears also carries it for $269. My friend would have a fit if I told him that! He paid $325 each for his 8.

Those abrasive chop saw blades add up and the sparks are a real pain in the you know what. Band saws are nice but take up space. The metal cutting blades on a band saw aren't cheap either.
I also like the portability of the Rage.

A way better way to cross cut metal than a band saw or a chop saw.
Just my opinion of course!

BTW...I do not work for the Evolution company, have any stock in it or are related to anyone who works or owns stock in that company. If it was a POS, I would say so.

[EmptyNester]

So, I got lots of great advice. I ended up ordering an Evolution Fury 3 (8 1/2" compound sliding mitre saw). The chop saw looked like it would do more cuts per blade, but I wanted to be able to do mitre cuts. I got it from Amazon in time to use this weekend (Amazon Prime is a great thing.)

I got to fire it up today. I was cutting mostly 14 ga. 1 1/2" tube and some 3/16" 2" tube. It did a good job with both, but it seemed that the 3/16 made it work a little harder. (It was hard to find, but in the manual said the "ideal" cut was on 1/8" mild steel.) It's a pretty clean cut, but does need a little touch up.

The manual is somewhat lacking. It comes with a dust collector bag and a plug for the dust collector. I assumed that you should use the plug when cutting metal. If you do that, you really do need a full face shield when cutting metal. It pelts you pretty well and you really get it if you're to the left of the handle.

The saw itself is light weight. I don't expect it will take a lot of abuse, but not unreasonable for a $150 saw with its capabilities.

Thanks for the help everybody.

[acourtjester]

HI Sorry I was out of town over the weekend.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...3&blockType=G3

[zoama]

IF you want a good one for a cheap price, here is the one I bought to use. (and subsquently loaned out my taiwan made HF to a friend). The metal never moves to cut angles. That's a space and time saving feature. The head does and it has a nice cam tightening vice. After having the kind you have to swing the metal all around its very nice, and angle cuts are made accurately with a degree by degree scale and pointer. The ONLY complaint is that the idler wheel is a bronze bushing instead of a bearing...But the guides and everything are much heavier. I think the bushing is oil impregnated, but I put a shot of lithium up there every once in a while anyway. So far no problems...Oh and when/if you get it, it can be coaxed to cut 6 inches. http://www.agrisupply.com/product.as...6103&sid=&eid=

Could you post a few pics of that saw when you get a chance? I plan on buying one soon.
Looks a lot like this Sealey but I'm sure there are some differences.

[performance]

That's a version of it to be sure. But I can't find any central US source. I'm pretty sure it isn't cheaper than the Agri supply unit. The only difference I see is the switch, which could have been easily changed in the new units. When I bout mine I paid 169.00. They quickly raised it to 229.

[zoama]

That's a version of it to be sure. But I can't find any central US source. I'm pretty sure it isn't cheaper than the Agri supply unit. The only difference I see is the switch, which could have been easily changed in the new units. When I bout mine I paid 169.00. They quickly raised it to 229.

The one in my pic sells for about 280p or $450usd in the UK.

[bobwills]

If i was you i would go with angle iron. It has plenty of strength for your application and it is way cheaper

[Jason]

The face shield is a good tip. Using the chop saw I usually do not have any face/eye protection on as I should or gloves. In fact, I often grab the grinder without any of this also which a bad idea. The pieces that fly back don't go un-noticed hitting your arms or hands either. I imagine the miter saw is worse than a chop saw but I could see where it could be more useful on wide cuts.