Best way to clean old aluminum for TIG

[scootarida1]

I.e. Do not use brake cleaner!!

Is there a reason not to do this? Will it react when welding?

[Mike J]

Is there a reason not to do this? Will it react when welding?

Check this out: http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

Scared the hell out of me!

Cheers,

Mike

[Wookie]

If it were me i would just toss it in the electropolisher depending on the parts size

[everlastsupport]

Is there a reason not to do this? Will it react when welding?

There should be a sticky here somewhere, but search for "brake cleaner" on the forum. Certain types can kill you. Avoid them all to be safe.

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...r-Phosgene-Gas

Acetone and Denatured alcohol is a better way to go.

[Ifixjets]

This is what we use in the aviation industry for prepping aluminum. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo.../alumiprep.php

[Jake98]

Welcome to the forum Ifixjets, we need more aviation talk here!

[hooda]

I have tried many things, including a trip to the local hydroponic growing store (Gee, wonder what people go there for?). They sell a product called "pH down" which is basically food-grade phosphoric acid in a decent concentration. They have really diluted it in recent years, as back in the day when I was an actual customer of this place (YEARS ago), the directions called for like 20% of the recommended application that the newer formula does. But, I bought a pint, just to see. I applied it with a clean cloth, and it INSTANTLY brightened the surface to a shiny finish. On deeper oxidation, a little help from a red scotchbrite pad helped, but the key was to keep the solution moving, not just wet it and let it sit. Then rinse thoroughly and immediately. You're doing yourself no favors by letting the stuff dry on the part. Another product that I've had great results with is Kleen-Strip's "Concrete Prep n Etch". It's a phosphoric acid-based etchant for getting old concrete ready for over-coating. The product cost was to the best of my recollection, less than ten bucks for a 3-quart jug. It gave good results FOR ME, and before any further action was taken, I RINSED thoroughly with plain, hot water. You want to get ALL remaining product off the base metal, as it will keep on working as long as it's on the metal.

I must put a disclaimer here: Neither of the products mentioned above is labelled as an aluminum cleaner, my experiences may be different from yours, the whole of my intent is to relay my personal experience using different products for different applications. Should you decide to experiment with the above mentioned products in any way not specified on the label, you do so at your own risk, and without any endorsement by me whatsoever. See, that wasn't so bad, now was it

[Cippee]

If your going to be welding something with a wps then I'm guessing it isn't going to be old or oxidized. Maybe some repairs might be. I always use a light duty wizz wheel and acetone it cleans the metal looking brand new. Not a wire wheel but the roll lock pads or flap wheel. It works great for me. As long as the pad is not contaminated and you use a stainless steel brush after it looks like new metal. I've never been a big fan of chemicals ever since I got some aluminum cleaner in a cut one day. I thought my finger was going to fall off. It felt like it was going to burn through to the other side of my finger.