Auto fan shutoff sensor?

[Grizzly1944]

Yes I have opened the EX up. It kind of looks like Cmdr. Data's brain. To make a short circuit in order to melt metal together is just PFM. As you know, if you run anything electrical, heat is your biggest enemy. It's best not to let entropy occur within the lean green machine and fry it's brains out. Don't even let it have the opportunity to do so. Otherwise Mr. Ohm will call up Mr. Murphy and Christmas is cancelled.

Anyways, have a good one.

Don

[geezer]

Yes I have opened the EX up. It kind of looks like Cmdr. Data's brain. To make a short circuit in order to melt metal together is just PFM. As you know, if you run anything electrical, heat is your biggest enemy. It's best not to let entropy occur within the lean green machine and fry it's brains out. Don't even let it have the opportunity to do so. Otherwise Mr. Ohm will call up Mr. Murphy and Christmas is cancelled.

Anyways, have a good one.

Don

You got that right, young wizards put it together and only young wizards can fix it, I will do what I usually do in such cases, stand there with my wallet in my hand while they work on it,

[Tinker]

Just got my 200 DX and have a quick question about the fan. When I've finished using the welder I'm guessing I should wait some time before actually turning it off? My assumption is that the rear breaker/switch cuts all the power to the machine including the fan so I need to leave it on for a while while the internals cool down?

If so are there any rules of thumb for the cooling off period that is recommended by Everlast?

Thanks, Gary

[performance]

Tinker, if you follow the duty cycle recommendations of 60% you can kind of gauge your use and allow the appropriate cool down from there. NEVER shut down an overheated unit until the overheat light clears, and then I'd wait for a couple more minutes after that.

[Andy]

Mark, The light on the PP 256 has come on a couple times. I've waited 15 minutes or so, but it never clears. Power cycling clears it. I was operating at about 100A. Should I have to power cycle to clear it?

Thanks,

Andy

[performance]

Depends, if it was red, likely it is an over/under current/voltage situation on the supply.

[Andy]

Depends, if it was red, likely it is an over/under current/voltage situation on the supply.

Thanks. I'm pretty sure it was yellow. I'll note the color next time.

[ASE_MasterTech]

It's best not to let entropy occur within the lean green machine and fry it's brains out. Don't even let it have the opportunity to do so. Otherwise Mr. Ohm will call up Mr. Murphy and Christmas is cancelled.Don

Entropy will ALWAYS occur.. You cannot prevent it, at least according to the 'Second Law of Thermodynamics'.
However, if you have found a way to avoid entropy, please advise, so that we may build a perpetual motion machine & enjoy endless free energy...

[blasphemy000]

I just kinda skimmed over this so sorry if I missed something important. I don't think tearing into your welder and changing the way the fan works is a good idea. And I've heard a lot of complaints about how Miller's "Fan On Demand" thing works. A lot of people hate that feature.

The fan for the torch cooler would be a good idea. I'm in the process of building a homemade torch cooler setup and I placed a temperature probe in the return line from the torch. If the water in the "hot line" goes above a set point(I haven't decided where would be best as I don't have my welder yet.), the fan that blows through the heat exchanger will kick on and run until the temp drops below another set point. On the other hand though even when the temperature is low enough that the fan isn't running, the pump itself is still circulating water through the torch, heat exchanger, and tank. I was thinking of wiring up a circuit that will kick the circulation pump on when I strike an arc, then after I extinguish the arc it will keep circulating until the temp drops enough to shut the fan off then the pump will shut off as well. Kinda like a "Torch Cooler on Demand." This would be the basic logic for how it would work. Very simple stuff.

Basically:
if ("Welding = True" & "Hot Line Temp > Fan Running Set Point") Then
Run both pump and fan.
if ("Welding = True" & "Hot Line Temp < Fan Running Set Point") Then
Run Pump but not fan.
if ("Welding = False" & "Hot Line Temp > Fan Running Set Point") Then
Keep fan and pump running.
if ("Welding = False" & "Hot Line Temp < Fan Running Set Point") Then
Shut down cooler fan and pump.

It shouldn't be too hard of a setup to make, I'd just need a small current sensor to put around the torch lead on the welder as that should give me a good enough signal as to whether I'm welding or not, and I could probably handle all the logic with some simple latches and gates, no need for a Micro Processor.