I got some more practice this morning I focused on my torch angle and worked on holding the torch steady . I think I am making progress.More heat less wiggle = better joint
I got some more practice this morning I focused on my torch angle and worked on holding the torch steady . I think I am making progress.More heat less wiggle = better joint
Power Tig 250 EX
Miller 211 Mig
Hobart Stickmate LX
Victor Torch
that one certainly looks to show some improvment salty!
can you give us some details on what your doing? (material thickness, tungsten type and size, filler type and size, amps ect?) i got lots of practice ahead of me, (i have yet to pick up a tig torch) so these kinda posts can really help the mental prep!
keep it up salty, looks like your getting the hang of it!
300whp FWD 94 Celica
PowerPro 205 with a hack behind the mask!
The material is 1/8" 3003 sheet aluminum (I am not real sure about this #3003) I am using the 1/16" 2% lanthanated tungsten, 3/32" 4043 filler rod with the amps set at about 120. I am learning to use the foot pedal without any thing like pulse or slope just a bit of pre flow and about 5 seconds of post flow on the argon. I have the frequency set to about 2/3 and the AC balance set to about 1/3 this is very close to what Jodie suggest in his video.
Power Tig 250 EX
Miller 211 Mig
Hobart Stickmate LX
Victor Torch
That’s very interesting Salty. I generally use 5356 filler rod. But after reading that 4043 is supposed to be easier to use, I bought some to try. But I found that all my welds with 4043 had a grainy appearance (almost like a sand cast look). I never found an explanation for it so I just went back to 5356 which is supposed to be stronger and more corrosion resistant anyway.
Maybe you could get a couple of sticks of 5356 to test.
Chris
Brisbane Australia.