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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    West Palm Beach Fl.
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    68

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    I got some more practice this morning I focused on my torch angle and worked on holding the torch steady . I think I am making progress. More heat less wiggle = better joint
    Power Tig 250 EX
    Miller 211 Mig
    Hobart Stickmate LX
    Victor Torch

  2. #2

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    that one certainly looks to show some improvment salty!
    can you give us some details on what your doing? (material thickness, tungsten type and size, filler type and size, amps ect?) i got lots of practice ahead of me, (i have yet to pick up a tig torch) so these kinda posts can really help the mental prep!
    keep it up salty, looks like your getting the hang of it!
    300whp FWD 94 Celica
    PowerPro 205 with a hack behind the mask!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    West Palm Beach Fl.
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    68

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    Quote Originally Posted by presure2 View Post
    that one certainly looks to show some improvment salty!
    can you give us some details on what your doing? (material thickness, tungsten type and size, filler type and size, amps ect?) i got lots of practice ahead of me, (i have yet to pick up a tig torch) so these kinda posts can really help the mental prep!
    keep it up salty, looks like your getting the hang of it!
    The material is 1/8" 3003 sheet aluminum (I am not real sure about this #3003) I am using the 1/16" 2% lanthanated tungsten, 3/32" 4043 filler rod with the amps set at about 120. I am learning to use the foot pedal without any thing like pulse or slope just a bit of pre flow and about 5 seconds of post flow on the argon. I have the frequency set to about 2/3 and the AC balance set to about 1/3 this is very close to what Jodie suggest in his video.
    Power Tig 250 EX
    Miller 211 Mig
    Hobart Stickmate LX
    Victor Torch

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    23

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    That’s very interesting Salty. I generally use 5356 filler rod. But after reading that 4043 is supposed to be easier to use, I bought some to try. But I found that all my welds with 4043 had a grainy appearance (almost like a sand cast look). I never found an explanation for it so I just went back to 5356 which is supposed to be stronger and more corrosion resistant anyway.

    Maybe you could get a couple of sticks of 5356 to test.

    Chris
    Brisbane Australia.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    West Palm Beach Fl.
    Posts
    68

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    Quote Originally Posted by AussieChris View Post
    That’s very interesting Salty. I generally use 5356 filler rod. But after reading that 4043 is supposed to be easier to use, I bought some to try. But I found that all my welds with 4043 had a grainy appearance (almost like a sand cast look). I never found an explanation for it so I just went back to 5356 which is supposed to be stronger and more corrosion resistant anyway.

    Maybe you could get a couple of sticks of 5356 to test.

    Chris
    Brisbane Australia.
    Thanks Chris, I will pick up some 5356 this week and post my results when I get some time to practice.
    Power Tig 250 EX
    Miller 211 Mig
    Hobart Stickmate LX
    Victor Torch

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Salty View Post
    The material is 1/8" 3003 sheet aluminum (I am not real sure about this #3003) I am using the 1/16" 2% lanthanated tungsten, 3/32" 4043 filler rod with the amps set at about 120. I am learning to use the foot pedal without any thing like pulse or slope just a bit of pre flow and about 5 seconds of post flow on the argon. I have the frequency set to about 2/3 and the AC balance set to about 1/3 this is very close to what Jodie suggest in his video.
    Thanks for the detailed info, salty, I appreciate it!!
    300whp FWD 94 Celica
    PowerPro 205 with a hack behind the mask!

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