Understanding that the three different cutting tools are in different price ranges, which one of the three would you put your dollars toward if you were starting from scratch?
Understanding that the three different cutting tools are in different price ranges, which one of the three would you put your dollars toward if you were starting from scratch?
Tony R
East Troy, WI
Craftsman 220 Amp Buzz Box
Hobart 187
Interested in purchasing a plasma cutter
What kind and shape of material will you be working with the most?
Gerald
Millermatic 251
Spectrum 300 Plasma
Everlast PowerTig 250EX
Everlast PowerCool W300
Harris / Victor OA
Craftsman 13 Speed Drill Press
ProTools Air/Hydraulic Bender
48" Brake, 72" Brake, 52" Stomp Shear
Mitler Bros. 36" High Throat Bead Roller
Compressor, Notchers, Grinders, etc.
That's a really good question - the projects I'm thinking about at the moment all require some sort of tubing, either square or round of about 1 inch to 1-1/2 inch size. Of ocurse, I also have a piece of 3/4 inch plate on the workbecnh that needs rounding (or at least have the corners taken off) before I put it on the metal lathe.
Tony R
East Troy, WI
Craftsman 220 Amp Buzz Box
Hobart 187
Interested in purchasing a plasma cutter
Then it sounds like a chop saw would serve you best as starters. But a chop saw wont do a thing for you on your plate. For that you will need a plasma or a cutting torch. I have a chop saw and a plasma cutter and mostly work with round and square tube myself, doing roll cage work, building trailers, and ornamental stuff. My chop saw is used 99% of the time for cutting material. A band saw will make a cleaner cut, but is way to slow for my needs. A chop saw will make a straight enough cut if you don't force the blade though the material. A framing square and a MIG welder take care of the rest.
Gerald
Millermatic 251
Spectrum 300 Plasma
Everlast PowerTig 250EX
Everlast PowerCool W300
Harris / Victor OA
Craftsman 13 Speed Drill Press
ProTools Air/Hydraulic Bender
48" Brake, 72" Brake, 52" Stomp Shear
Mitler Bros. 36" High Throat Bead Roller
Compressor, Notchers, Grinders, etc.
It depends on what type of work you are doing. I have all three well four actually counting a horizontal and vertical bandsaw. I can tell you not to bother with an abrasive cutoff saw I have 14 inch modle and used it twice, It now gathers dust on the shelf.
My first choice was a horizontal band saw I have a jet 5x7 but the HF 4x6 would dbe a decent choice they both need some attention to cut realy square but once set up and with a good quaility blade can cut well I have cut slices under 1/16 with mine. It also served me well as a vertical bandsaw once I built a better table for it.
I have used my plasma cutter some but suprisingly not as much as I thought I would. But when I used it it sure did the job and was about the only tool for the job, I would not want to be with out a plasma in my tool kit.
So if you are just ste=arting out and according to what type of work you will do. I play with cars both old and racecars and do some fabrication and repair work like most of us on here I would imagine. My vote is for a horizontal / vertical band saw then a plasma cutter and forget about the cutoff saw. I am also thinking of adding a metal cutting skill saw to my collection. Oh another option according to what type of material you work aith would be a deep throught portable band saw.
Hope this mini rant helps
Ray
Tony, each has it place depending on what you are planning on doing. band saws good for almost any size or shape that will fit into it, cut-off saw if you are talking abrasive wheel type are slow, most do not cut real straight and are dirty ( I have one in the corner) Dry cut chop saws with carbide tipped saw blades cut fast and accurate, with very little cleanup. I just got a Milwaukee and that will be my go to saw (but you need a special blade to cut non-ferrous metal). plasma cutters are good for sheet or none straight cutting, but I would much rather use a saw for rounds, box tubing, angle, channel and such. Not that you can not cut angle and stuff with the plasma, it is just more cleanup for a perfect job. And don't leave out the 4-1/2" grinders with cut off wheels I would be lost without these. So it really depends on the type of jobs you have planned to start with, and you will find yourself expanding your tool collection from there. Scott
Ram48, you mention a metal-cutting skilsaw. Are you talking about an abrasive disc swapped in to your circular saw? I bought a HF chop saw for a particular project, and realized I could have bought a circ saw abrasive for about $4.
DaveO
Oxweld oxy acet gear
IMIG 200
PowerTIG 210 EXT... Amazing!
Dave I am talking about a Milwaukee or evolution saw that is designed to cut metal like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdKN18KOMY4
Or an evolution saw which is similar. like this http://www.evolutiononlineshop.com/E...age_Saws~x.cfm
Hope that helps
Ray
Pretty easy to answer that one, Chop saw, then bandsaw then plasma. the chop saw will handle most cuts on angle or channel or tube, the bandsaw is best on solid bar that needs precise cuts for a lathe or mill and the plasma is best for plate cutting. The chop saw is the cheapest then bandsaw and then plasma.
eventually you will need all three to have a complete shop.
I have the cold cut saw, plasma, vertical bandsaw (2), and sawZall (2).
For basic cutting of new 20' material to build things, cut off saw/ cold cut saw.
I use it 10 times more than the others combined.
For salvage and repair, the plasma and sawZalls get the most use.
For custom, intricate, work, you can't beat a vertical band saw.
The sawZalls will do it, just not as clean or neat.
For speed and very rough cutting, the plasma wins.
Anything that is hand cut with a plasma will require a fair amount of clean up.
If I could only have one tool, it would be the sawZall. It is the most versatile.
If I was only concerned with cutting 20' pieces for building projects, I would choose the cold saw.
I almost bought the Evo saw. But after seeing one grenade due to a design flaw in their blade guard, I quickly scratched them off the list.
I borrowed a friend's DeWalt for a weekend. I made over 120 cuts with it. I did not like the fence and the stamped base.
I bought the 12" Makita from Amazon. It comes with a much better blade than the Evo. It has a cast base and a really nice fence. It has quick adjustment on the clamp; neither Evo nor DeWalt have that. I got tired of cranking that stupid DeWalt crank all day. The Makita quick adjust is a real time saver. If you add the $100 cost of a real blade to the Evo, it is not a great bargain. Their standard blade is no where near as good as the Makita blade.
Also, I saw an Evo saw after the blade guard fell into the blade. The saw was ruined. The design flaw is the way they attach the linkage allows the screw to vibrate loose. The female threads are in material that is too soft and thin for permanent attachment. Eventually, the screw will vibrate loose as it did TWICE to the guy whose saw exploded on him.
Last edited by A/C Guy; 03-15-2011 at 01:24 AM.
Hobart Handler 175
Hobart Iron Man 230 with spool gun
Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52
Makita Cold Cut Saw
Possible future addition:
Lincoln Invertec V311
or Miller Dynasty 350
or ???
I personally do not have the luxury of a chop saw or a vertical band saw. Not yet anyway. I had an abrasive chop saw a few years ago, and it too just collected dust. I make pretty much all of my cuts now with a portable band saw. If I am just chopping down material to a workable size,or reducing a large object to small usable pieces I will use the sawzall. And yes, hand grinders with cut off wheels are not in short supply either. I use the plasma when I need to cut an odd contour that I cannot duplicate practically with a cutting tool. I use a variable speed jigsaw to cut sheet and diamondplate and stuff. Not to hijack the thread, but have any of you guys ever seen or used this "dual saw" I have seen on television? here is a link to it. https://www.newdualsawquadforce.com/...?rtag=dualsaw& I am seriously thinking about buying one of these. What do yall think?
Everlast PP256
Everlast Imig 205
HF 90 am inverter tig
Scopes, Scanners, Meters
Usually I have access to a plasma cutter, chop saw, 4.5" grinder and sawzall. I use them all and it really just depends on what I am cutting and what will work best.
Jason
Everlast 255EXT - Perfection
Everlast PowerPro 256 - UPS Demolished
Everlast MTS200s
12 Ton Shop Press
DeWalt Hand Tools/ChopSaw
Having been a tool guy for more years then I care to admit. I have a 2sawzall's, porta band, a vertical / horizontal band saw, a vertical metal - wood band saw, plasma, air nibbler and electric shears, The type work you do will for the most part dictate what saw (s) to buy and in what order.
The sawzall's are good for many applications, both wood and metal but for precise work it takes some time with it to get good. The porta band is a must have for almost any home or hobby shop Mine is an older one and I would suggest you get the deep cut style it is WAY more versatile. The vertical horiz band saw is what I use most since I got it. I made a larger vertical table and used it both ways a lot until I got the vertical 14 inch machine which is great for scroll and small precise irregular cuts.
The plasma makes quick work of plate steel and body panels I use it but not as often as I thought I would But when I need it there is no substitute, I would like a oxy Acc torch but don't want that liability in my attached shop. I use the crap out of my electric shears to cut sheet aluminum and metal to accurate measurement. and I rarely use the nibblers they work well but I just don't grab them often The same goes for my air powered body saw.
Vertical band saw
cold cut saw
plasma cutter
sawzall
I use my band saw the most.
10.3 @ 134mph 1.5 60' DA 7500ft Bandimere speedway
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leUB4PCv0mU
Lincoln PT185
1980's Miller Plasma cutter
Everlast LX225 here and working well.
Hobart Handler 175
Hobart Iron Man 230 with spool gun
Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52
Makita Cold Cut Saw
Possible future addition:
Lincoln Invertec V311
or Miller Dynasty 350
or ???
The dual saw is a piece of junk. I bought one and after trying it, found out the blades did not last long even with the lubricating sticks. Then the motor burned out. I had one heck of a time getting it fixed. I did some research on it on the internet and saw some reviews that said pretty much what I discovered...gee I wish I would have done that first!
I have a PowerPlasma 50 and use it for plate steel, sheet steel and aluminum plate and sheet. For angle iron, tubing and rod I use the band saw. I used to use a chop saw but the sparks and the mess were way too much for me. The band saw is nice, smooth, cleaner and more accurate than the chop saw.
When I need it, the Plasma is hard to not use even with the extra set up. The band saw is what I use most....plus I can slice salami with it. Best salami slicer I've ever seen.
I'd go with the chop saw first. the $65 HF one works just fine. as long as you set the fence square, it cuts to within a degree of square. I believe I'm using these norton wheels currently: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2085_200332085
I'll have to check the # when I'm at work today. I get them 5 for $20 at the LWS. I've found you have to dress the edge a lot with the HF chop saw, it doesn't have enough nuts to force the blade hard enough to expose new grit. I have a hardened lag bolt I tap along the edge while cutting. I've got about 120 cuts on the first blade and I've only gone through about 1/2" of radius this far. also, I built a 28" wide 8' long table that the chop saw sits in the middle of, flush with the top. it makes knocking down stock a LOT easier. I'd like a bit wider table, but space is somewhat limited. it makes 45s on some things difficult.
I'd probably pick up a sawzall next. invaluable tool, cheaper than a band saw. if you're good, you can do compound angles on square tubing that you cant do with the chop saw. I did a shootout with sawzall metal blades. I'd avoid the Irwins, cut fine but the quick-couple hole pulled out. for quick dirty cuts the freud diablo variable pitch blades are nice. the dewalts are OK, the long tapered tip gets it into lots of places, not quite as sharp as the irwin. the milwaukee, lenox, and vermont american blades all cut about the same. the VA blades have a much shorter cross section and the teeth lasted longer, but they're prone to catching and bending. they're also significantly cheaper. a package of 10 VA blades was 12.50 or so at home despot, roughly the same price as a 5- or 6- pack of milwaukee, freud, or dewalt. as always, the HF blades are crap. although, their air body saw blades, oddly enough, are quite sharp. super bendy, but it doesn't seem to snap the teeth off when they bend, so you can just put them back. cut like gangbusters too.
O/A torch is also a must-have. I almost never use it for cutting because I don't cut thick plate for hardly anything, but it's invaluable for loosening bolts.
I've never had a plasma or a band saw, but I've come across situations where I'd like both.
worth mentioning also are air cutoff saws, air reciprocating saws(only really good on awkward spaces in 1/8" or sheetmetal, but can get you out of a bind), and a throatless shear. the real beverly throatless shears are about unstoppable. the HF ones are ok up to 18ga for long cuts or 16ga for small cuts. I've done .100" 6061 with my dads with no problem, though. the rotary ones are worthless. the big straight blade chop shears are ok, but don't plan on cutting a tight radius in anything. I haven't tried it, but I think you can cut 1/8" strapping with them, though.
Edit:
here's a pic of my chop bench. the saw is wired always on, the orange switch is the power. I have some momentary machine switches I plan on upgrading to once I find a suitable relay. I'd like to add an auto-cutoff, too. the pile of weights on the floor can be tied to the handle for auto-downfeed. works ok, but an automated air/hydraulic system with an RPM sensor would give better motor/blade life.
Attachment 2075
new blade (for reference):
Attachment 2076
Used blade (blurrier one) after about 150 cuts thru mostly 1x1x1/8" angle with some 1.5 and 2" angle, 3" strapping, and 1.5x3/16" square tubing. the whole welding cart I made was done on this blade, as well as the sheet steel rack (havent posted yet, but will soon) and a small rack for new skandix parts boxes. pretty good life for $4/blade
Attachment 2074Attachment 2073
Last edited by ogorir; 06-02-2011 at 06:57 AM.
McGuire Irvine
Crow Motor Co.
Lincoln powermig 225 (work)
Don't see any fire extinguishers..
Ya just might want a few of those around, cutting metal on a wood worktable with particle board backer & all (once it catches, man that stuff does burn fast)
just saying...
Last edited by ASE_MasterTech; 06-02-2011 at 09:09 PM.
-at the job-
Miller Dynasty 200DX
Miller Syncrowave 350
MillerMatic 250 (several)
Millermatic 350
Miller Bobcat 250 (Service Truck)
Lincoln AC225 (many)
Miller Spectrum 625 Plasma (several)
-At Home-
Everlast PP256
Longevity 256PI
"Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.."
the particle board is about a foot and a half from the table.
the fire bottle is about 25 feet away. I should probably plate over the deck with some 20ga and buy another bottle for the other end of the shop, too. I have a ton of 20ga now, so... why not?
anyone know of a good flame retardant?
McGuire Irvine
Crow Motor Co.
Lincoln powermig 225 (work)
My portable bandsaw is the thing I use the most. The secret; build yourself [or buy] a table top adapter that makes it into a bench mount bandsaw. It doesn't cut much slower than my dry chop-saw, and makes no mess doing it. No sparks, no burnt computer monitor 30 feet away, it's quiet, it's friendly, it doesn't turn at 10,000rpm. It's small, lightweight and travels well.
The key, once again, is a bench top table saw adapter so you can get those 1/16th inch cuts.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Milwaukee-48-08-...item53e570fa8e
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
portable bandsaws are always on sale at HF, and I think the housings are all but universal....
Air-powered nibblers are great and clean for sheet metal. Far Far superior to similar size shears.
My plasma cutter is on the way for use on body panels and sheet metal and such.
My sawzall does almost as much damage as it does good. Rough cuts are great and quick, not good for much else in fabrication [to me, but I am a vast wasteland of taltentlessness....]
Last edited by ducksface; 03-15-2011 at 04:32 PM.
I am out trying to 'find myself'. If I should wander back while I am gone, please tell me to sit quietly and wait for myself to return.
LOTS of scuba and vintage scuba equipment [I'm Always willing to trade or buy the stuff you think is too old to use]
Smithy XLT Mill/lathe [It was easier to learn than I thought, I'm no pro, but I can make a bearing hanger]
Everlast PP256