Arc starting issue

Hello,
Been awhile since I've been on this forum. I have a 250ex that I bought new in 2012. I've noticed the arc starting getting harder and harder and now I have to touch the work piece to get things going. Welds fine after that. My set up is water cooler, scc pedal and flex loc head.
Things I checked...
1) my torch is plugged in the negative
2) I cleaned my ground clamp.
3) I cleaned my work piece and tried a new tungsten
4) went back to original pedal and torch
5) tried using thumb switch.
6) removed cover and set gap to 0.30 it was over 0.40
7) I see no spark across the gap when trying to weld looking threw front cover.
8) turned preflow down and waited 8 seconds with foot pedal pressed, no arc

Anything else I can try before call tech support?
Thanks for any help

Only thing you didn't specify, did you clean the points? Other than that it sounds like you hit all the bases. Do you hear any HF buzzing when you hit the pedal?

Yeah,

As Rambozo suggests, maybe the contact points could use some dressing. I mean, like some fine filing or use of emery cloth.

I would probably try setting the points closer to .025, to see if that does it. I mean, you mention "set gap to 0.30 it was over 0.40", in which a decimal point seems to be out of place.

Otherwise, I'm in the habit, most times, especially on aluminum, to touch the part first, then raise before initiating an arc, for predictible starts. I think that's not uncommon on many brands of TIG machines, from comments I've noticed. But my unit is the only one I've used for AC TIG with aluminum. I mean, I've heard that lack of adequate post-flow can make that more likely, due to its causing the tungsten tip to become oxidized, as a blue or purple tip will show. And I tend to be stingy with Argon, so my post-flow is usually 8 seconds or less, and I also like a bit longer stick-out on my tungsten, which undoubtedly affects the tungsten tip too. I've also heard a theory that a tungsten can hold a static charge after terminating a weld, which is then helpful in discharging by touching down to the work piece first, to ensure more reliable arc starts.

Jody Collier and Everlast troubleshot a unit he had, which turned out to be just a need to tighten up the gap setting. But there was mention of a potential for the HF to leak off to any nearby bracket, especially if the points gap is too wide. So I would look to see if anything metallic is 1/2" or nearer to the points. If so, I'd bend it away or insulate it somehow.

So, these are just my novice guesses. And, like Jody mentions in the video below, make sure you allow plenty of time for any capacitors to discharge before touching the internal parts, like points.

And please do let us all hear back within this thread about what ultimately does solve your problem.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/combo-welder.html

Nothing else really. Might need a HF board replacement. How old is the machine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by performance

Nothing else really. Might need a HF board replacement. How old is the machine.

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He bought it new in 2012.

Didn't have my cheaters on. My bad. So it is probably out of warranty. The board is fairly cheap though. I think that is what has happened, or the wires came loose to the board.

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I will first try to clean the points and while I'm in their I will check the wiring and reset the points to .025. If that doesn't work I will order a new board.
I will report back in a day or two.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

Only thing you didn't specify, did you clean the points? Other than that it sounds like you hit all the bases. Do you hear any HF buzzing when you hit the pedal?

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I can't imagine a machine leaving the factory with dirty points, or even an improper gap, but it could get corrosion on them if setting in a bad environment, so worth a mention.

gree, you might be able to re-purpose the Dinse connector you have on the original torch. Is it a size 26? I'm curious, does your machine have the black hose on the torch, or do you have the newer red flexible hose?

Alan

His unit seems to be a 5 year old one.

But, yeah, it'll be nice to see what solves the problem.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aland

I can't imagine a machine leaving the factory with dirty points, or even an improper gap

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Guys, I must retract that statement, was I ever wrong as I just watched this video that Jody Collier did a while back. Definitely worth checking the gap on the points.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQoOP9DHJJQ

I know, I know...different machine and all, but this could be the same problem.

Alan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

Only thing you didn't specify, did you clean the points? Other than that it sounds like you hit all the bases. Do you hear any HF buzzing when you hit the pedal?

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No HF buzzing and no signs of sparking looking threw the front vents

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aland

I can't imagine a machine leaving the factory with dirty points, or even an improper gap, but it could get corrosion on them if setting in a bad environment, so worth a mention.

gree, you might be able to re-purpose the Dinse connector you have on the original torch. Is it a size 26? I'm curious, does your machine have the black hose on the torch, or do you have the newer red flexible hose?

Alan

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The original torch that came with it was black. The Flex Loc is red. I came with everything needed to plug directly into the welder. I don't recall using anything off the old torch to make it work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gree box

The original torch that came with it was black. The Flex Loc is red. I came with everything needed to plug directly into the welder. I don't recall using anything off the old torch to make it work.

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Yeah, the newer machines come with a red flex, so they are nicer I'm told, but have never seen one of the older black less flexible style.

You should check the point gap just in case.

Alan

did you solve this problem? i have exactly same problem but in 210 ext model.

I'm going to call them tomorrow and probably order a new board

Just a quick update. I talked to Brett at Everlast. We did a few checks and he recommended the HF board be replaced. Naturally I'm 2 months out of warranty. Ok just need it fixed. $140 for the board shipped. Got board which required soldering wires to the new board. Result...still can't start an arc and now have no foot pedal control😣. Now unit needs to be shipped at my cost plus a 375.00 max repair fee. I did get credit for the board but this now could be a $500 bill. Not happy. I could understand if I actually used the machine everyday. I use it a hand full of times in a year.

Sometimes sitting is one of the worst things for something...in factin most cases, sitting around is the worst thing for somethings.

I hear ya, but it's in a temperature control garage sitting next to my Thermal Dynamic plasma cutter a two red box mig welders which work fine and are older

Gee,

The timing is a little unfortunate for the repair of your 250EX.

But your feedback is helpful, to me, and undoubtedly others too, as I've often wondered how reasonable would the pricing be in servicing Everlast units, beyond the warrantee period.

A cost of $500, for parts, labor, and round-trip shipment to restore a welding unit to perfect function, which included the replacement of a main board, seems very reasonable, I think.

I mean, on an out-of-warrantee Miller TIG unit, I think I've heard figures quoted by owners, of around $1000, just for a main board, as a part, then being only customer-installed.

So, beyond the 5-year warrantee, Everlast units seem to still prove to be a better value if a problem does arise. And that may also be true of other Asian-produced units sold and serviced here in North America. So, I'm not just trying to be an evangelist for Everlast only. I mean, my previous GiantTech CAT520D (also labeled as a Lotos unit, and as others names, maybe even as an early Everlast unit too) was known to be able to be serviced and have boards replaced very reasonably for out-of-warrantee or for non-warrantee unit customers.

So, like the brilliant intial value of most of the better Asian-produced welding units lately, the servicing cost/value, even out-of-warrantee, is also better than others, too.

Of course, the Everlast staff seemed to be especially reasonable in helping you, by giving you credit for the initial HF board. I mean, I have previously and currently exercised warrantee issues with Everlast, and find their staff and any bureaucracy involved to be quite reasonable.

Christian,

I may have mislead. It could cost up to $500 . Plus I have to pay round trip shipping on the unit. So say over $500.
The tech line very helpful it taking care of getting this resolved. I have no doubt it will be it working condition soon
I guess my issue is how little it has been used to have an issue where it needs to go back. Who know maybe it's something I'm doing wrong. And it my fault because this is an ongoing problem that I'm finally getting sorted.
Will post feedback once I get it back home

Sounds good.

Who knows, maybe it'll be less that $500.

And if it turns out to me a non-issue somehow, maybe even less still.

But, yeah, it'll be fixed. And that 250EX model, along with their 200DX/DV, is a backbone unit of Everlast's TIG line, so it's undoubtedly and inherently robust, statistically.