Connectors

There's another thread which Rambozo started for Dimensions, and I would like to see a common thread for connectors.

It is very difficult to determine which connectors are on which Everlast machines. I'm sure others have run into this problem, but there doesn't seem to be any knowledge base yet.

Can Everlast help with any of this information?

If not we can try to gather it on our own. Speaking for myself I want to know what type all the cable, gas, electrical, etc...

Without knowing this information it makes it difficult to put together or buy the proper cables in the after market world.

Alan

There's only two. 25 and 35 series. 25 are 3/8" roughly and 35 are 1/2" roughly in diameter.

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Originally Posted by performance

There's only two. 25 and 35 series. 25 are 3/8" roughly and 35 are 1/2" roughly in diameter.

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What about connectors/threads on the regulator? Hoses? Which hoses have what connectors? Argon connectors?

Yep, as far as Dinse you have 3/8" and 1/2", that's correct...but there's some ntp and/or UNC threads mixed in some of this stuff also.

Would like to know gauges of cables, hoses, etc...

Maybe I'm being too demanding, but just offering some feedback. All of this is possible in the world of online communications.

Even a wiki that community users could update with after market parts that will fit Everlast welders.

Alan

Mark,

Just to elaborate on this a tad more. Let's say I wanted to make a torch cable to replace the one on the torch that is shipped. For whatever reason, I want to make a longer one, or I want to have a different type of hose and/or cable...there's a number of connectors including the Dinse connector which has a gas hose going into it.

In my case I want to replace the hose on my argon regulator, to replace with a threaded end rather than a pipe clamp that doesn't even appear it can be tightened once installed.

I hope this makes sense.

Another example is the pedal and/or switch. The info is in the manual for the Panasonic 7-pin, but gathering all that info with the connector info would be useful. As it is there is nothing that has all the dimensions/details of all the connectors for any given machine that I have seen. How to wire the control switch used in lieu of a pedal...stuff like that.

These machines stay the same for a long time, once done everyone can benefit.

Alan

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Originally Posted by aland

These machines stay the same for a long time, once done everyone can benefit.

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The parts that Everlast specs do stay the same, and are pretty well documented. But many parts are selected by the factory and often change lot to lot and have little to no documentation. You could try to keep a list, but then people would count on it and when it's wrong they would complain.

For example Everlast specs a regulator/flowmeter that is CGA 580 in and 6 or 8mm hose barb out. Those specs always stay the same, but there have been quite a few different versions of this one item with different threaded fittings connecting all the different parts together. Each supplier is free to use whatever and often will change over the life of the product.

Older machines used to be spec'd with a hose barb inlet. Now they have changed to a threaded fitting that is standard across the line, so that is nice.

Some things are designed to be user swapped and follow a standard. Things like DINSE plugs and such. Other parts are supplied complete, but not subject to standards as long as they work. Like if you want to change the DINSE connector on the front panel. Sure it's DINSE on the outside, but where the wire attaches it could be another connector, a threaded stud, a tapped hole, what size, what thread? It doesn't matter unless you are doing that repair/upgrade, then it is up to you to make that decision.

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

For example Everlast specs a regulator/flowmeter that is CGA 580 in and 6 or 8mm hose barb out.

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Where do I find that in the manual or online info? That's my problem, that even if it is there I don't know where it is.

This was obviously stemmed from our conversation in regard ot replacing the argon line, I'm sure you have figured that much out...

But the point is for all connectors.

As an example, in my manual from online it says on the 2nd to the last page it shows the 7-pin connector, but it doesn't say it's a Panasonic 7-pin. On their site somewhere you can buy the Panasonic 7-pin.

I believe I have a CGA-580, as you point out, but how do I know?

Don't worry, I won't keep beating this bloody horse! I'm done ranting...LOL

Truth is I only need the connectors for my machine. Unfortunately everyone will need to figure out some of this stuff if they want to replace any of the hoses or lines.

Alan (going off to STFU)

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Originally Posted by performance

There's only two. 25 and 35 series. 25 are 3/8" roughly and 35 are 1/2" roughly in diameter.

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Mark,

They say timing is everything...

You'll have to excuse my depression as I purchased a Nova pedal which shipped from Everlast and it has the wrong CONNECTOR on it. :(

Certainly my mistake for ordering a pedal that didn't list the model welder I own, but I figured a 22k ohm pedal with a 7-pin for an Everlast machines would be the right one.

I received a pedal with a male 7-pin plug on it, and my machine has a male 7-pin plug on it, so both ends are the same sex.

Seems I need a Female 7-pin plug on the cable of the pedal.

The pins are larger on my 7-pin, but in the same physical layout. Small pins on the 7-pin male that came, but larger pins on the 7-pin male attached to the front of my i-Tig 201 welder.

When I opened the box I was hit with a Chinesium odor that damn near knocked me off my chair, good thing I was sitting down...welder wasn't like that, but pedal smells like it came out of the back section of HF, if you know that Chinesium plastic/rubber or old recycled coke can odor...

Even in my case how would I know that pedal was going to ship with a male adapter when I needed a female? Doesn't list it on Amazon, nor does it on your website. :confused:

I also looked at the unit, thinking maybe a bezel could be taken off the welder, there are a few screws around the chrome plastic bezel, but I thought to ask here first as not to upset you. ;)

What type of connector is common in the industry? What type of connector do the digital machines use? (i.e., i-Tig 200T)

Awaiting your advice on how to proceed...

Alan

Mark,

From the page I bought the unit from, it says it comes with a 7-pin female.

https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Everl...YD/ref=sr_ph_1

I guess they shipped me the wrong pedal ?

I bet a list on connectors on the machines may help those people in the shipping department... :rolleyes:

Alan

I sent an email to Oleg and think we'll have it worked out. I did a refund on Amazon and it let me print out a UPS label.

I have it packed up and labeled and will wait to hear on what Oleg suggests to resolve it.

As I told him, it clearly states that it's a 7-pin female plug on the pedal. I don't think it's a fault of mine.

BTW, it doesn't list if it's a female/male on the Everlast site.

Alan

PS as a side, you can sure tell the website is running in a VM. I've used Amazon in the past to host websites and they were often slow to respond until the cache filled. You guys might look at tuning the VM/apache some. You can probably get better response out of it by configuring the VM better.

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Originally Posted by aland

What type of connector is common in the industry?

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All over the place!

I've never had two machines with the same pedal plug, even though the same brand. This is getting better, but still far from a standard. Miller seems to have settled down to a single 14 pin plug, but in the 3 Miller machines I've had, all were different. It seems they did think ahead a little too, as when they came out with a wireless pedal they had all the power and signal pins ready to go on that plug. Lincoln isn't much better. AFAIK Everlast has had two plugs, and 3 pot values. Mark would know the variations. The real old machines might have been something else.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

All over the place!

I've never had two machines with the same pedal plug, even though the same brand. This is getting better, but still far from a standard. Miller seems to have settled down to a single 14 pin plug, but in the 3 Miller machines I've had, all were different. It seems they did think ahead a little too, as when they came out with a wireless pedal they had all the power and signal pins ready to go on that plug. Lincoln isn't much better. AFAIK Everlast has had two plugs, and 3 pot values. Mark would know the variations. The real old machines might have been something else.

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I see, just like everything else in life I 'spose...LOL

I got an email back from Everlast and will call them tomorrow and get the right unit shipped out. I had to return the Amazon purchase, but that was pretty easy.

All will be well in the end.

I see the prices on all the welders are back to regular prices now. I guess holiday sale is over...AC/DC Tig machines are now way back up there also!

Maybe in my future, not sure. My little i-Tig 201 will let me learn how to weld. I have a few ambitious projects, as time permits.

The first step is getting the correct pedal...and I will tell you this, but please don't laugh at me. I was going to open the pedal as I want to see the Japanese potentiometer. This pedal really has the Chinesium smell to it, not sure why, must be the 25' cable, I'm guessing the rubber on the outside. I was telling myself, "Self, Rambozo would be asking why not just use it before tearing into it..." but I want to see what's on the inside after I get the pedal I'm going to keep. Looks like only a couple hex nuts that hold the top of the pedal on...

For that matter, I'm going to open the welder also. I want to see the inside and I want to see where the points get adjusted. On the 201 you can set the gap on the points, I don't know if that is an advantage or a disadvantage, but it can be set. I guess the box needs a tune up to check the points every so often...the digital wouldn't need that, so there could be some advantage to the digital i-Tig 200T over the i-Tig 201. Hopefully I don't end up with a red headed step-child...:rolleyes:

Alan

"Don't turn it on, take it apart" - Dave Jones EEVBLOG

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

"Don't turn it on, take it apart" - Dave Jones EEVBLOG

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My kinda guy...I have to take everything apart. Sometimes I get it back together...hehehe

I will open welder, cause you need to if you want to set the points...damn, I feel like I'm working on my first car...it had points.

Same reason I need to replace that argon hose, or why I have a Victor gauge on my propane forge, or why I may replace the flow gauge with another at some point...or why I will replace the torch with a CK, the ground clamp with a teaco, or even the flex head replacement on the torch with stubby kit...I can't tell you why...I can only confirm. ;)

Honestly, I can't even tell you why I'm replying at 3:30am...if anyone finds out, let my wife know cause she's wondering why also...:D

Alan

Yeah,

There's apparently different gender connectors for some "MTS" pedals versus more typical Everlast TIG pedals.

https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Everl...words=Nova+TIG

"For units with a 22k to 25k (25,000-ohm) potentiometer. Not for MTS welders and EVERLAST PA160STH (2013-2017)"

https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Everl...words=Nova+TIG

"For units with a 22k to 25k (25,000-ohm) potentiometer. MTS welders only and EVERLAST PA160STH (2013-2017)"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by christian

Yeah,

There's apparently different gender connectors for some "MTS" pedals versus more typical Everlast TIG pedals.

https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Everl...words=Nova+TIG

"For units with a 22k to 25k (25,000-ohm) potentiometer. Not for MTS welders and EVERLAST PA160STH (2013-2017)"

https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Everl...words=Nova+TIG

"For units with a 22k to 25k (25,000-ohm) potentiometer. MTS welders only and EVERLAST PA160STH (2013-2017)"

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Yes, apparently there are different ones but both of those ads say 7-pin female. And both of what you quoted says 2013-2017. My machine was first produced in 2015 and I bought it in 2017.

How could I actually get a 7-pin male I wonder ? Both of those ads say they come with a 7-pin female. That seems bulletproof...but I got a 7-pin male. :D

I can't make this stuff up...seriously...

EDIT: BTW, my Power i-Tig is not an MTS welder either. :rolleyes:

Alan

Yeah,

The two listings do mistakenly state in the text that they're female connectors.

But the two listings do have photos of different gender plugs, and also make a distinction between "MTS" and non-MTS pedals.

So, it's just unfortunate that you apparently ordered from a link that was for an "MTS" pedal or that Everlast mistakenly sent an "MTS" pedal even though you may have used the typical TIG pedal link.

Everlast and Amazon will square it away for you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aland

Yes, apparently there are different ones but both of those ads say 7-pin female. And both of what you quoted says 2013-2017. My machine was first produced in 2015 and I bought it in 2017.

How could I actually get a 7-pin male I wonder ? Both of those ads say they come with a 7-pin female. That seems bulletproof...but I got a 7-pin male. :D

I can't make this stuff up...seriously...

EDIT: BTW, my Power i-Tig is not an MTS welder either. :rolleyes:

Alan

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by christian

But the two listings do have photos of different gender plugs, and also make a distinction between "MTS" and non-MTS pedals.

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Holy Crapola Batman...I honestly didn't see that other picture of the plug, you have to click on it as the initial image is the pedal.

Even I'm in high tech and failed...WTF ???

Quote:

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Originally Posted by christian

So, it's just unfortunate that you apparently ordered from a link that was for an "MTS" pedal or that Everlast mistakenly sent an "MTS" pedal even though you may have used the typical TIG pedal link.

Everlast and Amazon will square it away for you.

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I just got off the phone with them and they are going to square it up, that I'm not worried about. I could go up there, I might do that...I'll see what they say...

It is convenient being close to the office, that I will say! ;)

EDIT: Yep, they just called back, I canceled my return on Amazon and doing sneaker net, err...tire net, to exchange it at the office.

Alan

Now you have me wondering Alan as to what I'm going to pull out of the box when I get my 255 because I had the pedal upgraded to a Nova pedal.

Mark

Gee,

That's too bad.

But, whoever it was, hopefully will reconsider their interaction with you and offer you an apology at some point or in some manner.

Otherwise, no need to leave the forum here, as Mark, from Everlast, is the main one who interacts here and is very reasonable and helpful.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aland

...

What a complete disappointment. *sigh*

Alan (on the verge of Happy Trails...)

Alan

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Ok, it's all straightened out, the owner called and spoke to me just now for quite a while.

I'll send a PM to Mark and see if he can clean this thread up.

Alan

Well alright then!

So, maybe when you have your first project going with your new unit, you'll be willing to then post a thread about at the forum here, and help wake this place up again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aland

Ok, it's all straightened out, the owner called and spoke to me just now for quite a while.

I'll send a PM to Mark and see if he can clean this thread up.

Alan

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Our forum comes in fits and spurts. But it is better than a few other forums I've been on.

As far as the pedal stuff goes, I don't know. I don't work in the main office, so anything that goes on there is out of my purview. I know some of the guys there should have gotten better training by their parents in manners, but again, I am southern, so I can be blunt, when needed, but hospitality is also important.

I will say that everything we have on our units is prety much standard. Now, with that said, Miller, Lincoln and others do not specify all the different connections, even when they have proprietary connections. We go further than they do. It seems we are always going further than they do, but never seems to be enough. People call these difficiencies, but maybe this is because these statements are made in vacuums where there are no comparisons to what is done by our competitors.

It always comes down to "If you did this....you'd have alot more customers" Well not exactly, but that is the jist of things. HOnestly, in that kind of info, we have it published more than most of our competitors in more places. Are there lapses, errors, or lack of info on some areas? Sure, but put the other brands that charge a lot more with larger staffs, to the same standards and you will find that they just don't have that info available at you finger tips.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by performance

I will say that everything we have on our units is prety much standard. Now, with that said, Miller, Lincoln and others do not specify all the different connections, even when they have proprietary connections. We go further than they do. It seems we are always going further than they do, but never seems to be enough. People call these difficiencies, but maybe this is because these statements are made in vacuums where there are no comparisons to what is done by our competitors.

It always comes down to "If you did this....you'd have alot more customers" Well not exactly, but that is the jist of things. HOnestly, in that kind of info, we have it published more than most of our competitors in more places. Are there lapses, errors, or lack of info on some areas? Sure, but put the other brands that charge a lot more with larger staffs, to the same standards and you will find that they just don't have that info available at you finger tips.

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I'm waiting for my 255 to be delivered supposed to be Jan. 10 I believe. But one thing that concerns me Mark is warrantee repairs if there should be some my question to you is how hard would it be to get something set up to have these units repaired locally? I know its not as easy as it sounds to set this up but would be immensely helpful to your customers and not just only the cost to ship back but the time you would not have the use of your welder. I read somewhere on the forum here that you were working on something to improve this but after talking to you on the phone this evidently isn't one avenue you decided you wanted to go down , but maybe someday .

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by christian

So, maybe when you have your first project going with your new unit, you'll be willing to then post a thread about at the forum here, and help wake this place up again.

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Indeed I may. ;)

Look what I dragged home today...1" T x 10" W x 38" L.

I thought it would make a nice shelf for my welding cart build. :cool:

https://www.everlastgenerators.com/f...3&d=1515285476

Mark (not performance Mark, but oleblu72 Mark)

No affiliation with Everlast, but they use UPS. You can print out a UPS label and take it to the local UPS store. The pedal from Amazon worked like that, and I'm pretty sure their warranty repair would also...I'm pretty sure performance Mark will correct me if I'm wrong. I wouldn't worry about it myself, it seems the qa is pretty good on the units. My pedal was an anomaly that had to do with ordering/shipping. I'm sure Everlast has returns but probably minimal for the amount of machines they sell. Again, just a guess.

Alan

Attachment 13673

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oleblu72

I'm waiting for my 255 to be delivered supposed to be Jan. 10 I believe. But one thing that concerns me Mark is warrantee repairs if there should be some my question to you is how hard would it be to get something set up to have these units repaired locally? I know its not as easy as it sounds to set this up but would be immensely helpful to your customers and not just only the cost to ship back but the time you would not have the use of your welder. I read somewhere on the forum here that you were working on something to improve this but after talking to you on the phone this evidently isn't one avenue you decided you wanted to go down , but maybe someday .

Mark

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Please consider a few things here and I'll try to put things in perspective.

1) I know warranty repair is a concern for any product, especially a welder and we are not dismissive of that fact. But, if you read the terms of a the warranty on a Lincoln or Miller, you'll find their terms of repair and shipping are not much different than ours. While they may have more repair centers out there, if you do not live close to one, then it is still your responsibility to get it there. And who knows how long you'll wait, or how competent they are to fix what you want, or if they shoot you a line of you know what to get you to buy a new unit, since they are also local dealers. They'd rather make the easy money than fix yours. If you are in the middle of Wyoming, it's a moot point anyway.

2) We cannot guarantee the quality of a repair by some local repair center or by every yay-hoo that calls themselves an electronic repair center. They have to be fully equipped and competently trained in welding and welding repair. We require tens of thousands of dollars of specialized test and repair equipment to be considered a fully competent repair center. So many of these shops that contact us balk at the requirements for load testers, programmers, thermal...whatever they call those thermal imaging thingies, and want to make a fast buck off of both the customer and off us. To keep prices where they are, we must also be able to competently, and economically make repairs. We cannot pay a min 100.00/hour repair rate. We must negotiate a flat rate repair and diagnosis fee in keeping in scale with our costs of our units. A lot of repair centers want to make money on private after market reman of products but our new replacement boards are cheaper than what they can fix them in house for.

3) We bring people in house in CA to train, and also send them to China to train. Most repair centers do not want to make that kind of commitment to us to train. And even with the best manuals for repair, there is no substitute for hands on working with the engineers and seeing and being involved in the production/inspection process of the units. So many local repair centers can result in a high variability of service. While speed is a concern, a quality repair is more of one to us.

4) We work with customers to provide the most expedient repair possible and have engineered our machines for major components to be repairable by the customer by creating a componentized service system which allows a change out of an affected part (many of them anyway) in relatively short time by the customer IF the problem can be pinpointed over the phone. That saves shipping time and money. And the cost is minimal, as is the downtime...if the customer is willing and capable. Otherwise, it has to go back.

5) Shipping is covered both ways during the first 30 days of service. This gives you plenty of time to try the unit out and test it fully. If something isn't right, statistically, most of the problems that the unit will ever have show up will happen during that time. If it is major in nature, the unit is usually replaced.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aland

Indeed I may. ;)

Look what I dragged home today...1" T x 10" W x 38" L.

I thought it would make a nice shelf for my welding cart build. :cool:

https://www.everlastgenerators.com/f...3&d=1515285476

Mark (not performance Mark, but oleblu72 Mark)

No affiliation with Everlast, but they use UPS. You can print out a UPS label and take it to the local UPS store. The pedal from Amazon worked like that, and I'm pretty sure their warranty repair would also...I'm pretty sure performance Mark will correct me if I'm wrong. I wouldn't worry about it myself, it seems the qa is pretty good on the units. My pedal was an anomaly that had to do with ordering/shipping. I'm sure Everlast has returns but probably minimal for the amount of machines they sell. Again, just a guess.

Alan

Attachment 13673

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Alan I think your steel plate might be better used for a parking brake or something that sucker looks pretty heavy. If you use that for your welding cart build you'll have to put a motor on it to move it , I have a nice Briggs motor that runs on alcohol that I had on one of my go karts that ought to get you moving.

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oleblu72

Alan I think your steel plate might be better used for a parking brake or something that sucker looks pretty heavy. If you use that for your welding cart build you'll have to put a motor on it to move it , I have a nice Briggs motor that runs on alcohol that I had on one of my go karts that ought to get you moving.

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Mark,

Do we know each other? How did you know I plan to put a gas engine on my welding cart? You must be reading my mind if you don't know me...:P

Seriously, that may be the biggest piece of plate I've owned, I don't think I ever worked with a piece of 1" thick plate ever. I paid about $1/lb. for it new. So it wasn't cheap! I was looking for surplus, but no thick plate was there on surplus so had to get a section of new.

I have not mentioned what the plate is actually for, but will leave everyone's imagination so I don't need to put on my Nomax suit to protect me from the flames...:rolleyes:

Alan