This is for a CT520D 3 in 1, not a Everlast product. We're getting a pilot spark, but the plasma will not kick in. Can you guys give me a list of what to check out to find out what the problem is?
Cliff
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This is for a CT520D 3 in 1, not a Everlast product. We're getting a pilot spark, but the plasma will not kick in. Can you guys give me a list of what to check out to find out what the problem is?
Cliff
Hi can you let us know what make it is . It is possible you have to adjust your gap as even though you have some spark it may need to be gapped to get optimum spark. Depending on the make this could be a screw adjustment or simply bending the leg.
Cheers
It's a Simardre tech.
Hi CSR
That is a bit Tricky. the problem is that if Simadre and some others are still getting there units from the Supplier i visited a couple of years ago there is no way of telling what configuration the HF board is.
The problem is they do not produce the PCB boards themselves and in fact from what i saw there where at least 2 different layouts being used.
They would not admit this to me of course but having visited there ( i hesitate to call it a Factory ) Old Colonial Mansion from the days of Imperial European Involvement in China there was no facility for making boards and in fact absolutely no indication of this being done there. In a way this may be a good thing given the poor state of the building for this type of intricate work
The Board in question is a small 3"x 3" board on the bottom base front of the machine and if you contact Simarde they should be able to supply this to you.As i remember it is not very difficult to replace as it is only 3-4 plugs to switch over to the new Board.
I have a feeling the boards are put together as a cottage industry and i can just imagine a family sitting in a small room surounded by chips patiently soldering each tiny component.
Cheers
Duncan
Duncan.
Would it help if I took a picture of the board, now that I know what to look for to see if it can be adjusted?
Cliff
Yes it definately would help . The HF points themselves could be one of three different types . I think the most common that i seem to recall seeing was a brown plastic ( U -shape holder) but i have no way of knowing your configuration without seeing it .
Cheers.
I've got a picture of the board. Or I'll say I hope it's the right board. It's in the place you said and there's a small brown horseshoe thing you mentioned. If I need to take another shot just let me know, of what and from what angle.
Check the gap between the 2 points that are mounted in the horseshoe . I seem to recall a credit card is a good spacer and it is non metalic. And i would also suggest you check all connections to make sure they are firmly seated. If this does not solve your dilema i Would suggest contacting Simardre and requesting either a new board or depending on Warranty purchasing the Board.
either way keep us posted and hopefully it is a simple case of resetiing the gap .
Cheers
Well I just did my 1st attempt at adjusting the gap. The space was tighter then a credit card. So I backed it out a bit and gapped to the card. Everything looks tight, no blown resistors or anything. No go, same thing. I'm going to try it a little closure after the caps cool down. Waiting to hear from Simadre.
Cliff
Sorry for the extra long delay, but life got in the way. I've tried to adjust the gap a few different times now. No luck, the same with any response for Simadre's so called tech support. I got 1 back from him then no responce to the next 6 emails. So how do I figure out what board I have and who is the best company to get a replacement from?
I'm going through a move right now, but should be settle in a month or so. I need the plasma at the new location since I'm losing the use of a water jet.
Cliff
If that is from Chiry (sp) there should be others that can help you on the internet. Also, there is a yahoo group for Chinese welders and they seem to all be that company (think there are schematic for the HF board too). Our units are different with IGBT, etc. See if you can find a name on one of the other PCBs (boards) in the machine.
If you email support@everlastwelders.com I can send you the exact link to that forum. I know most of our "competition" are selling those units, so someone should be able to get you a board.
Or maybe you can get Oleg in sales to upgrade your unit as an option when you get settled in. I do not know what the loss of a water jet is, but I can bet that hurts. Would love to have one myself.
I'll check out those other options. IF I can't get my plasma back, I'll be looking at 1 of the EL plasma's
You know what a CNC plasma is, then think of no clean up, perfectly cut edges, thinner cuts and you have a water jet. A friend owns a granite fab shop and he has a large water jet for doing the counter tops. Another friend had a 4x8 plasma table and the water jet will cut finer details then the plasma could. All I need to do is a drawing in Corel or AutoCad and run over to the shop after hours.
I friend of mine has a large pasma CNC at an ironworks factory. My guess it is 12'x18-20' It is big. I've seen $500 DIY waterjet claims on the internet. That would be a great investment if they work. Wish someone had a kit system for the price.Quote:
Originally Posted by CSR
I used the CNC plasma for a long time before for my friend Plamer said he's bet his water jet could do a better job. That was cutting out small plates for armor. The plasma would pierce the holes and I'd have to re-drill them (8 holes per plate) any thing smaller then a 1/2" hole was a pain for the plasma. The water jet cut out everything. I was not thrilled will drilling out over a 1,000 plates, but it was better then cutting and drill out that many. LOL...
The biggest problem with home made CNC's is the software. Building 1 isn't that hard. The difference in the cost of a good motor over a cheap motor is minimal. I've seen schematics for XYZ controllers on the web, but then again the controllers are that bad of a price. Then getting your hands on a pump that can cut at least 1/2" with a tank of water to cancel the cut would be fun to build.
I've been looking at the high end 50 plasma ( the eBay prices are weird, the mosets are like 400, you/Canada has the power for 550 plus shipping and the US has then for 750. I've seen the 3 in 1s with the IGBTs for 800. Got to wonder why the 3 in 1 is so cheap come paired to the plasma.) But I haven't seen a vertical cutter head for a CNC. Lots of things to consider before I make my final plans.
CSR,
The 1 in 1 (plasma) and the 3 in 1 (DC TIG/plasma), both take a power supply, inverter, case, HF board, etc, etc. You just add a couple switches and boards to add a TIG/MMA to a plasma machine (and bigger case).
You save on the 3 in 1 by not having duplicated of a lot of things in seperate units. That said, you also have more weight, heat (can be less duty cycle), etc.
I like having mine separate, I have the room, that helps. No swapping around torches and gas/air when I realize I forgot to cut some pieces, after I already started welding things up. Guess I am getting lazy. Also, an Everlast employee discount helps. :D Though our prices are fair, Oleg will hook most people up if you call into sales.
If you find a good water jet DIY, keep me in mind.
The Vertical Machine head Torch for the Power Plasma 50 is not yet available. However i have discussed this with the Engineers . My last visit was part of this discussion and it seems they will need to develop a Set of consumables rated to the 50 for use in the machine torch they currently have to get the best performance for a basic CNC application.
To be honest the TIG torches ended up taking priority over the Machine head and i have not pursued this with them lately.
Now that the verdict is in on the Quality / Performance of the Accesories i can and will spend some time following up on this option and the viability of having it.
Cheers
The Trafimet S 75 machine torch can be fitted to the unit with little or no problem especially since we are using the new connectors that will interchange. This torch is more inline with the duty cycle that is required to maintain the cutting time that a CNC is capable of.
There's a number of factors that make a DIY water tough. The biggest is a proper head, you can buy a head, but then comes finding a pump that will deliverer the right psi. Then finding the right fittings and hose for the system is pricey. But with that much pressure going through the line, I wouldn't want to scrimp on parts. Which is the main factor against DIY water jets. The price, you can buy 1 of the best plasmas for less then you can build a water jet.
Most of the guys here can build a frame to handle either a plasma or water jet. The jet should be a bit stronger. But for the jet, you'd add a water tank under the cutting surface (2" minimum deep), a large pump and reserve water tank, a pressurized abrasive hopper tank, a filtration system to prevent abrasives form getting to the pump and other parts, Then the last fun part is trying to get a way to reclaim as much of the abrasives as you can from the main tank.
That my friends is the short list of the problems.
For right now, I'm leaning towards the Power 50. Having a vertical head would be great but not really important. Since most of what I do is 1 offs, a CNC is over kill (Like most of us here haven't been accused of that). I think the 70 or 80 would be a better choose for a CNC and to be honest, I'd want a water table. Just because is that much cleaner to work around. But then a under water plasma torch isn't cheap. We all should be thankful dreaming is free.
Well, it has not been a priority here. But I have seen them work and it is quite impressive. The power and pressures.Quote:
Originally Posted by CSR
Maybe I will plan on a CNC and get me a PP50 and go from there, when I get time of course (I might never have a CNC machine if time is required though unless I buy one ready to go).
I hear that.Quote:
Originally Posted by CSR
For CNC plasma, go with the PP50.
Most of what I'd be cutting would be 3/8" or less, but with a CNC, I could see the fabrication of new and bigger tools. Which means I'd be cutting up to and maybe over 1". That's near the limit of the PP50. That's why I'd go bigger.
Moving to another area of the country, isn't my 1st choose. But it's what I need to do. I'll be joining a like minded group of people who are looking forward to me joining them. 2 of the guys have a number of projects that I've been involved in as far as design goes. Now I'll get to join in on the building. 1 of the 1st projects I'll be working on is a CNC shaper with multiple power sources. It will be able to work with wood, plastic, and metal. By building a head attachment for the plasma gun and figuring out how to switch it on and off. I can use it for a CNC plasma cutter.
With a PP50 in my near future and getting a Power Tig down the road, I'll fix my current machine and give to 1 of the guys down south who's 2 hrs from the main group and could use the welder big time.
For CNC, the rules change. For 3/8 inch thickness, You'll want to consider at least a 70 or 80 amp PowerPlasma.
Time to learn something new. Please explain how things are different with a CNC. I have limited experience with only 2 models and was under the assumption that with better speed control, height control, and tracking you could cut within the spec's of the plasma. Now you say that a machine that should easily cut twice that thickness won't handle that in a CNC?
I know more about the fabrication of the control surfaces and never really worried about the cutting end of it.
Cutting speed isn't necessarily an issue, although it can be.
There are several things at play with CNC. 1) Piercing is a common function of CNC. MAX piercing value of a plasma cutter is typically rated at 40-50% of the max rated cut of a plasma cutter, regardless of brand. Piercing is hard on the torch and consumables. Although given enough time and no care is given to consumable life, a thicker pierce can be attained, but the result is a wide, melted area. 2) The duty cycle of most plasma cutters (except Hypertherms newest, high dollar machines), is rated at 60% at rated amperage. This limits maximum amperage cutting to 6 minutes out of 10. If you are cutting a thicker piece of metal, it isn't likely that you will be willing to stop at 6 minutes, in the middle of a cut and wait 4 or 5 to start again. It is pushing the machine to its limit, even though there is thermal protection. Just as most people would never think it is okay to run a car or truck engine just a hairline below the "overheat" line continuously, the same is true with electronics. CNC's operate continuously with little stop and rest time, and if anything, their rapid restarts and fast cutting speeds do not "improve" durability of the plasma cutters. To operate continuously in the safe range, the amps of the plasma cutter must be reduced within the 100% duty cycle level, and additionally a small amount for a safety factor, thereby reducing the cut capacity further.
The 50 could be expected to cut 1/4 continuously, to keep within the duty cycle of the machine and the limits of the torch.