Just got my PP50, hooked everything up and it worked right outta the box.
Tested it on some 1/8" angle. Dang it's neat!
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Just got my PP50, hooked everything up and it worked right outta the box.
Tested it on some 1/8" angle. Dang it's neat!
Already made a tow bracket so I could connect a tow bar. Wasn't easy cuz there's no frame to the car. Just stamped sheet metal so I had to make it a bolt on frame rather than welding something to a bumper or frame.
Post up some shots if you get time.
What does it mean when the arc turns off. Sometimes it shuts down after only 1-2 seconds (cutting welds(disassembling) .040" sheet metal tubing). Then I went over to a scrap 3/8" steel and even forgot to attach ground and it cut without interruption.
Could be moisture in the line, oil maybe. Bad consumable can cause it as well. What the air pressure set at? Try it at 60-65PSI.Quote:
Originally Posted by jtybt
Without the clamp, you're cutting with the pilot arc. I have done that many times on thinner steels or to clean up a cut (on propose most of the time).
Been having trouble with air hoses leaking and popping off. Re-crimped the clamps but just popped off. Going to get hose clamps today.
Also, where is the 'CODE' for registration purposes?
Holding air now. Starting cutting fine then stopped. Everytime I press the trigger, the air pressure in the torch hose goes to zero and no arc.
Tried it again. Nothing. Post flow timer doesn't work either. Flows about 15 sec no matter what setting. Amp control has no effect on torch.
Pressure regulator isn't working either. Pressure stuck on 60 PSI.
are you sure you are pulling out the reg knob to turn the regulator, that knob is one hellva tough knob to pull out. Check you ground connection at the machine, I had a similiar issue. the reg knob can drive you nuts. try pushing it in and then pulling it out etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by jtybt
Yeah, the air flow reg knob is a bitch. I leave it out. It doesn't turn when pushed in.
The pushed in position is the locked position, it can only be adjusted in the out position. I leave mine out as well, Question ?? what hoses were leaking and had to be recrimped , are we talking in side the machine or out side on the air cleaner etc. The air pressure setting from the compressor is not supposed to exceed 80 psi. if I remember correctly. I remember reading that somewhere in the instruction manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by jtybt
Compressor is set at 80 PSI and the plasma is stuck at 60 PSI...but that's not the problem. There is no arc or pilot arc. I hear a solenoid in the machine and all air pressure in the feed line to the torch deflates.
The air hose to and from the air pressure dial was leaking but took a re crimp fine. The hose to the'solenoid'(?) blew off so I put a small hose clamp on and it held.
After these fixes, the torch fired and cut two spot welds off and then stopped with the deflate of the air supply to the torch.
I called Mike a couple times and missed him. He called me today and I missed him.
Got a hold of mark and he suggested the hose clamps...but they have to be modified(bent) to close on a 5/16" hose.
Interesting problem, could be a sticking relay/bad relay connection, or perhaps the consumable is pitted and welding it self to the tip, the pilot arc torch has a sliding tip on a spring, anything gets in there could give you a problem. My problem occured when I used a fellows compressor that was loaded with water from not draining it regularly, the little filter grabbed a teaspoon of water in two minutes of use. Used my own compressor and the problem stopped.
Interestimng. I'll hook up my water trap/water filter for my paint gun and switch over to my pancake compressor and take to tip apart....but I think it's an electrical problem at this point, with the torch hose deflating when I pull the trigger.
Not to jump in here, hopefully you’ve heard from Mike. The unit will shut down the arc if there is not enough air flow, for safety. From what I’m reading it sounds like you have a restriction in the air line to the solenoid, I’d take a good look at the regulator or air line to it. Look for Styrofoam in the reg. inlet. Also look to see that the regulator is not coming unscrewed at the body (from turning the knob). Hope this helps.
Ray
Good input. All suggestions will be happily looked at.
I just started the plasma inside the garage and noticed the yellow light was on. Didn't see it before cuz I was outside.
Also hear a high pitched, almost inaudible buzz when I pull the trigger and the torch hose deflates.
Haven't heard from Mike this morning. I'm on the west coast(30 mi from the warehouse) and I think Mike is in Florida so there's a time difference.
Have you checked the tightness of your consumables? Loose consumables are the primary cause of the condition you described.
The main issue outside of that is a torch malfunction. Carefully inspect the two pins at the top of the torch head when the cup is removed. They look like to fine ballpoint pen tips sticking out. They should move in and out freely and point straight. The next thing to check is the "plunger" action of the electrode. If you press in on the electrode, it should rebound quickly. If it rebounds slowly or not at all, you have a problem. Also, in twisting the torch or using it, occasionally a wire comes off inside the torch body itself. 4 screws will open it up along with a gentle twist on the bottom of the torch body to unscrew the plastic fitting that is attached holding the torch together. Look at the attachment points and the trigger wires. You can see if the wires have slipped off the terminals or not, and inspect the solder points of the power AND pilot arc wires.
The yellow light is on...its a good thing, tells you you are in the correct pressure range.
Pulled off the cup and blew thru the tip and assembled. Works now, BUT the post flow timer doesn't work. Turned it all the way down to check and it still blows about 15 sec.
The pilot arc runs fine until I attach ground and start to cut. The arc shuts down. Sometimes after 2 secs or 5 secs, but it always shuts down with the ground attached to the work. Sometimes it will restart by itself. Everytime it shuts down, the air hose to the torch deflates.
The inner tip spring seems to work but one pin feels a little rough.
Sounds like a crud problem in the hose, probably stuff in the hose during manufacturing, a tiny bit of crud can affect the swirl ring or piston especially if the air is wet coming through making the crud in to a sticky paste. Keep us informed, new knowledge and fixes are good for others to know.
One curious thing. There is a 1-2 sec delay after pulling the trigger til the pilot arc starts...but every once in a while it'll start as soon as I pull the trigger.
I have a refillable aeresol can from HF that I can fill with lacquer thinner and spray the torch tip parts and maybe un stick them.
I'm disassembling some tube type wrought iron fence to build up some stock but it also gives me practice in cutting thin stuff and tack welds without going thru...well most of the time.
I have a bunch of 3/16" X 2" angle iron brackets I have to disassemble, too.
Gotta make this plasma cutter pay for itself.
Jbyt,
The symptoms you are giving is of a faulty torch. Call Monday, and we can send one out. Most likely the spring is retracting too slowly. Arc starting can be slightly delayed if that is the case. Sometimes, its just a matter of use. But call sales on Monday, and they should be able to send one out right away.
Oky Thanks, Mark.
That delay indicates a sticky piston binding, you could pump it up and down a dozen times to break it in or clear it, the other possiblity that comes to mind is the trigger switch is not making a positive contact, it's a very simple switch, the sticky piston is my first guess, make sure the consumable is tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by jtybt
I don't think it is a serious problem just painful one, keeping your air dry & clean is important
Got a hold of Alex and the torch is on it's way.
...and thanks Katya!
yeah i got the same problem and ive already disassebled and installed new wires inside torch cuz they were so thin and broke and torch wouldnt work and now its doing the same thing again im wondering if i can get a 40 or 60 amp torch and run it with out the pilot arc
yeah power plasma 50 is a good unit cuts real good but the problem is the s45 torch with too many thin wires inside the torch and going to the plug seems like the most complicated plasma torch ive ever used and im not statisfied with mine and wonder if i can put on a 40 or 60 amp non pilot arc type cuz they last longer and work better than the s45 i would appreciate any help because today it went down for the second time and i didnt feel like opening up the damned s45 unit again for the 3rd time to track and repair the bad connections in the thin wires
Brit,
The torch is actually very simple as far as things like that go...But I understand your issue. Twisting and excessive coiling can break or pull the wires. There is a possibility that you might want to purchase a true trafimet s-45 if you feel this is a problem. They are available from many trafimet dealers. We will have a new torch factory I hope and have a few changes, including the s-45 forthcoming, but no guarantee as to when.
MOST torches do not give any issues on the wires breaking. It is rare, so with my experience with these torches, the only thing that causes them to break is the pulling flexing and over bending of the torch near the head. You may want to add a small length of wire to the connections to lengthen the wires. There should be enough room to coil a loop or two extra under the handle. HOwever, most times all that it requires is to push the switch connector back on after squeezing it tight and no soldering is involved on this switch.
What most people do not understand about the blow back design is that it doesn't have much to do with pilot arc. The blow back design initiates the start, and does not control the pilot arc in most cases. A high frequency torch would require a lift start and it would be quite difficult to cut. Possibly the pilot arc would continue to function, but it is not designed for it.
yeah took the torch apart and found loose connections on switch and secured all connections and added wires to give it room and it works great thank goodness and yeah its a good cutter and blowback types seem to cut better and work better and cool off faster and thanks for your quick helpful response