Received New PowerTig 185 Today

Unit came 100% complete, no missing parts or clamps or fittings. It came out of the box in perfect condition and tested out on aluminum using the ssc pedal. Have not tested the torch switch, the DC, or stick function yet.

The only negative comment I have is regarding the female DNSE connection on the unit for the torch. It is clocked in a position that creates a conflict with the torches gas line and the 7 pin connector. My 250EX had a similar issue, but per the customer service it was an easy fix. Opening the case and rotating the connector is a snap.

Just verified the manual does specify 25 series DINSE (3/8). This unit came with the 50 series instead. It actually works in my favor though, as I can switch torches with my 250EX.

Congrats on the new machine! Glad it worked out for you. A 250 EX *and* a PT 185... you've got a lot bases covered, from raw power to portability.

The torch has a cloth like jacket over the cords rather than that stiff plastic sheathing. It's actually a very nice torch. A/C frequency adjustment is on the low side until you get to about the 1 O-clock position, this is where it begins to sound like 60 hz. The dial does not have incremental markings so you have to guess the settings.

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Originally Posted by DaveO

Congrats on the new machine! Glad it worked out for you. A 250 EX *and* a PT 185... you've got a lot bases covered, from raw power to portability.

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Thanks! The 250EX is my garage unit and that sucker is awesome. Runs 1/2" 6061 plate like a champ! Can not say enough good things about that machine.

I run a mobile welding service and have a Miller Trailblazer 301G, Millermatic 140 Auto, and a PowerArc 165 TIG/Stick unit. The 165 is a DC only unit and runs 1/8" 7018 like crazy. It's a nice alternative to the Trailbalzer noise when the customer has the juice available. It's a very small unit, about the size of a toaster, and it TIGs steels with ease.

Because I don't have AC TIG capability, I've been having to turn away a lot of aluminum business. This is why I purchased the 185. It's a much larger unit though than what I envisioned, but I think it's what I need. Still testing it out as per the Everlast instructions to make sure it's 100%.

Nils

Does the foot control still override the panel amperage?

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Originally Posted by srp

Does the foot control still override the panel amperage?

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The foot pedal does override the panel setting, so I need to learn a little more about heat. I'll have to check if the display shows the amperage I'm running. This is a "by the seat of your pants" type unit. AC frequency, balance, pedal amperage, are all set by feel, but for less than a $1000 bucks I think it's just fine.

I believe it is by far the most tig for the money for ac welding. I need a 110 welder for parts of the shop without 220, but that little quirk with the foot control has kept me from buying one.

The newer units I believe have a rheostat that's adjustable on the pedal if you buy the pedal. This is the same way that the new TA's and "someother" brand works as well. Not a quirk, but just a feature of a lower priced welder. IF it is as you say, and want a panel control and won't buy the 185 because of it, then simply get the the 200DV. It's got panel amp adjustment, but you pay for it.

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Originally Posted by performance

The newer units I believe have a rheostat that's adjustable on the pedal if you buy the pedal. This is the same way that the new TA's and "someother" brand works as well. Not a quirk, but just a feature of a lower priced welder. IF it is as you say, and want a panel control and won't buy the 185 because of it, then simply get the the 200DV. It's got panel amp adjustment, but you pay for it.

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I know that Everlast listens to what their customers say, I can see that by looking at the newer models such as the potentiometers on the front panels would get loose from the plastic wrapping during the boat ride, so they put a plastic protection door on the front panel to stop that. Some did not like the small high frequency start on the 250ex, so they replaced it with one that looks to be good for about 10,000 amps and the list go's on and on.

I do not mean to complain, its just I think this one little change with the foot control would make them just as popular as the 250ex, and most people on here already know what I think of it. The 185 has too many of the most wanted options to by thrown in with and be considered a cheap welder. IMO

I just wanted to be heard, I will not bring it up again.

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Originally Posted by performance

The newer units I believe have a rheostat that's adjustable on the pedal if you buy the pedal. This is the same way that the new TA's and "someother" brand works as well. Not a quirk, but just a feature of a lower priced welder. IF it is as you say, and want a panel control and won't buy the 185 because of it, then simply get the the 200DV. It's got panel amp adjustment, but you pay for it.

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Well, I just bought both the pedal and the unit and there is no rheostat. The panel override is not really an issue with a good pedal. But, if you do go with the cheaper pedal, amperage control swings quickly from one end to the other and requires a finer touch.

The AC frequency and balance settings are a bit of a challenge as there are no mid-range markings. Knowing these exact settings, like on the digital units, is a nice feature but hardly mandatory. In the end, you still have to run it to see if it's right or not and then make adjustments if necessary. There's no getting away from this, even with a Dynasty 350DX. But once you have the precise settings figured out it's nice to be able to call them right up, this is the advantage of the more expensive systems.

Did you buy an SSC? They don't have the control on it.

I don't know if anybody else does but I stick little thin pieces of pin stripping tape on the face above the ac balance and frequency to be able to repeat weld setups, one color for each different weld setup. I know this sounds hokey, but it works good for me.

To be honest, just the thought welding on a month long project in a critical area, where there is no room for error with only one potentiometer controlling the weld amperage output would be scary. I have never seen a potentiometer spike that was not being adjusted though.

If I buy one of these units, I would want to have the large dinse connectors so these 200+ dollar aftermarket torch's from the 250ex will interchange.

With a 185 amps, this is really a non issue for most people. As for scary, the reason the pedals aren't linear is to achieve maximum control on the low end where it's needed most. When you get up to 100+ amps, 10 or 15 amps one way or the other doesn't make or break a weld if you are a welder worth his/her salt. It's not enough to make a rapid difference in the puddle in aluminum, especially. As for the dinse connectors...the ck torches can come with the 25 series as well.

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Originally Posted by performance

With a 185 amps, this is really a non issue for most people.

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Plus with a dual voltage machine you have two ranges for the pedal to work in. If you want to do thin stuff, just run on 120VAC and bingo, you now have a low range pedal.

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Originally Posted by performance

Did you buy an SSC? They don't have the control on it.

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Yes, it is the SSC pedal and is very nice. Highly recommend. The tape idea is good. I was just going to take a Sharpie and do little tag'n. :P
Using my 250EX, try to match audible frequency. But, I'll play with it before I get too anal about this. A good welder should be able to set-up, and any critical chit deserves test pieces prior to the real deal.

I want this machine to provide a good stable arc and consistent performance, all the rest is up to me. Been busy and not able to do anymore testing, but maybe tomorrow.

Thanks for your input, appreciate it!

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Originally Posted by performance

The newer units I believe have a rheostat that's adjustable on the pedal if you buy the pedal. This is the same way that the new TA's and "someother" brand works as well. Not a quirk, but just a feature of a lower priced welder. IF it is as you say, and want a panel control and won't buy the 185 because of it, then simply get the the 200DV. It's got panel amp adjustment, but you pay for it.

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Do you have any details on the pot used to tweak the pedal range? I just received a pedal for my 185, but it is an older one with no pot.

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Originally Posted by nils

Yes, it is the SSC pedal and is very nice. Highly recommend. The tape idea is good. I was just going to take a Sharpie and do little tag'n. :P
Using my 250EX, try to match audible frequency. But, I'll play with it before I get too anal about this. A good welder should be able to set-up, and any critical chit deserves test pieces prior to the real deal.

I want this machine to provide a good stable arc and consistent performance, all the rest is up to me. Been busy and not able to do anymore testing, but maybe tomorrow.

Thanks for your input, appreciate it!

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I would like to hear more about how it welds up next to the 250ex. The only other 110 units that have extended ac balance, frequency up to 250 and pre-flow are Miller and maybe Lincoln that I know of.

DC mode is great. Very tight arc with lots of control, was lap welding a 1/4" mild on top of 1/8" mild, and keeping the edge sharp was not a problem.

The SMAW, stick mode works really well in both AC and DC modes. I was surprised at how well 6010 ran all the way down to 70 amps. My PowerArc hates 6010. but not this baby, and SMAW is a newer mode for this model. In DC it light like a match. AWESOME!

Still working with the AC GTAW trying to optimize the settings for aluminum.

My SSC pedal is 25K with no external controls.

The smaw doesn't output in AC, DC only regardless of where the switch is set. Which power arc do you have?

With a fixed .3 pre-flow, is that enough for a 25 foot torch?

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Originally Posted by srp

With a fixed .3 pre-flow, is that enough for a 25 foot torch?

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Yes, once you initially purge the line, the heavy argon basically stays in the hose, so a small preflow is all it takes regardless of the line length.

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Originally Posted by performance

The smaw doesn't output in AC, DC only regardless of where the switch is set. Which power arc do you have?

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Maybe my power setting was too high and when I went to tune it down I also noticed that it was in AC mode. Based on your comment this would have to be the case.

My PowerArc is the 160. This is a really neat little unit, but it does not start well with 6010. Unless the power is set way up, it wants to stick like a magnet. 7018 and 6013 run like a charm, but not the old 6010. When I was considering the PA300 my research noted this was inherent with the PA series, but was resolved by the introduction of a 6010 port, on some models, dedicated to its use. I haven't looked at the latest and greatest PA series, so I'm not sure if this is still an issue. BUT and HOWEVER, this 185 is a double WOW with the 6010, and I am ecstatic about that!

nils,
This info isn't correct. It wasn't "inherent". The PA 200 and 300 came before the current 160 and 140 st. These have always had the separate port and 6010 capability. Except we introduced a non separate port 200 with excellent capability 6010 capability and people thought because it was missing the separate port, it wouldn't weld 6010, but it did, and did so nicely. The reason something does, or doesn't handle a 6010 is because of the output voltage of the unit with 6010. This can work in a single port machine or a separate port machine. We've reworked several machines, and some are burning 6010 better now than before because of the overall streamlining of the designs, but still we are only giving the PA 200 and 300 the official stamp. The 140, and 160 are made for a different market than the 200 and 300. We had an older 160 with 6010 capability that was made for the heavier market, but because it didn't provide the amperage most people needed, we discontinued it in favor of the stick/tig unit.

Thanks Mark for the history on the PA. It is the only inverter type I know of with the separate 6010 port, and my 160 absolutely does not work well with that rod.

Went for some more testing today on aluminum. I found using the TIG torch and pedal in stick mode resulted in a crazy episode of run-away-arc, white smoke, and WTF.

Moving on, I tried several variations of balance, but am still getting a glazed/measles look on the finished bead regardless of the setting. Tomorrow I'll try a different bottle of argon, though the one I'm using worked perfectly with mild steel.

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Originally Posted by nils

Thanks Mark for the history on the PA. It is the only inverter type I know of with the separate 6010 port, and my 160 absolutely does not work well with that rod.

Went for some more testing today on aluminum. I found using the TIG torch and pedal in stick mode resulted in a crazy episode of run-away-arc, white smoke, and WTF.

Moving on, I tried several variations of balance, but am still getting a glazed/measles look on the finished bead regardless of the setting. Tomorrow I'll try a different bottle of argon, though the one I'm using worked perfectly with mild steel.

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Never heard that description before...don't know what measles would look like on metal. Got a picture?

What's your polarity? Are you trying to run the 6010 with the electrode holder in the negative or positive?
And on TIG what's the polarity? You should be somewhere around 9 oclock on balance, and 2 oclock on frequency.

Are you sure what you are trying to weld is aluminum?

Post up a picture of the weld along with an overview of your welder settings.

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Originally Posted by performance

What's your polarity? Are you trying to run the 6010 with the electrode holder in the negative or positive?
And on TIG what's the polarity? You should be somewhere around 9 oclock on balance, and 2 oclock on frequency.

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For stick welding it's EP. For TIG it's EN. Balance seems best at 9 oclock and the frequency is between 1 and 3 depending on if I want to run at 60hz or 100-160????

I don't think that measles is a standard welding term. But it looks like there's little bumps on the surface and it has a dull glazed look.

The material is definitely 6061.

I've tried posting a picture but can only get as far as browsing for the file, then there's no more buttons to select.

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Originally Posted by nils

I've tried posting a picture but can only get as far as browsing for the file, then there's no more buttons to select.

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Can you double (left) click and select it?

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Originally Posted by nils

For stick welding it's EP. For TIG it's EN. Balance seems best at 9 oclock and the frequency is between 1 and 3 depending on if I want to run at 60hz or 100-160????

I don't think that measles is a standard welding term. But it looks like there's little bumps on the surface and it has a dull glazed look.

The material is definitely 6061.

I've tried posting a picture but can only get as far as browsing for the file, then there's no more buttons to select.

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4043 will do that on 6061 when there is not enough cleaning action.