My Power Arc 160 STH arrived and I have questions.

Ok I opened my unit and the first things I noticed...

The TIG SIDE:
I am really disappointed in the torch. My TIG torch looks like the chap ones you get on ebay. It is not the blue handle one you see on the website description and are lead to believe you are getting, nor is it the one that Jody demoed in his video. The flow meter is basic and functional but is in LPM.

STICK SIDE:
I like the sturdiness if the stinger.

ELECTRICAL:
The unit is wired with a 220 plug but I can not see what amps it is. I was told in the forums to not use it an to change it out for a 220/50 plug. It also has the 220 to 110 pigtail.

Any help would be appreciated.

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Originally Posted by ironmanjay

Ok I opened my unit and the first things I noticed...

The TIG SIDE:
I am really disappointed in the torch. My TIG torch looks like the chap ones you get on ebay. It is not the blue handle one you see on the website description and are lead to believe you are getting, nor is it the one that Jody demoed in his video. The flow meter is basic and functional but is in LPM.

STICK SIDE:
I like the sturdiness if the stinger.

ELECTRICAL:
The unit is wired with a 220 plug but I can not see what amps it is. I was told in the forums to not use it an to change it out for a 220/50 plug. It also has the 220 to 110 pigtail.

Any help would be appreciated.

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The supplied torches vary depending. Some people prefer one over the other. The blue handle style is a Euro type and not used by most US suppliers. The actual torch parts are the same, it's just about grip and the switch. It comes down to personal preference and what is comfortable for you. Give it a try. You can call Oleg about changing it, if you want. It's been mentioned many times here that Everlast uses LPM, the aprox. conversion to CFH is just to double the number. Most of the world is metric, we are the exception. Same with the gas fittings, so hose barbs are semi universal.

Again stingers are a very personal thing. You will find people that love or hate both the clamp type or the screw type.

That plug info in the forums is outdated. Now the machines come with a nice 6-50 plug so keep it. (They used to come with a kinda lame plug)

Definitely keep that existing plug attached to the welder or you will also need to make your own pigtail for 110v use. As you can see, Everlast has been making note of comments on the forum and have been improving their products accordingly.

Is your TIG torch the black handled one? I was under the impression that maybe Everlast was moving away from the blue euro handle TIG torches because people found them too bulky. As you can see, TIG torch selection is really, really subjective.

I see it like I am buying the welder and everything else is part of the starter kit to get me going. For a starter kit, the accessories are actually pretty good and for a lot of people, they run with the accessories "as is". I think the TIG torch is one thing that most people start looking at to change to their specific needs. Personally, I'm looking at getting a lighter duty, smaller torch for when I don't need too many amps.

Actually. The torch you received is a MUCH better torch quality than the old blue handled design. It's a STANDARD size, and a good quality...and way more flexible. It isn't a cheap torch by comparision and is not much different than a weldcraft of the same series. The plug is a standard NEMA 6-50 used for welders in the US and Canada.

Thanks for all the info. I will give this one a try as soon as I get some Argon. My 220 will not be installed until this weekend or early next week. I am going to do a unboxing video tonight and a stick weld on 110.

Are there any 220/50 extension cowards that I can use to get my welded to the front of my garage? If so will doing this affect my power any?

Yes, you can use them... You can make your own as well. But you'll need at least 8 gauge for best results.
Ebay has had some.

On the cord. Just make sure the plug ends match and your cord is rated 30 amps or better. Go bigger if you can, since you might end of with more 220vac tools down the road. Making your own will save you some money.

I made a 100 ft. cord for my welders 6-3 can run all out no trouble.

For either torch type, are the consumables and assorted parts standard?

In other words, can I go into any welding shop and pick up gas lenses, cups, tungsten, replacement torch parts, and so on? Or will I need to look for specialty products to fit, or order them from somewhere?

Thanks.

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Originally Posted by jameslo

For either torch type, are the consumables and assorted parts standard?

In other words, can I go into any welding shop and pick up gas lenses, cups, tungsten, replacement torch parts, and so on? Or will I need to look for specialty products to fit, or order them from somewhere?

Thanks.

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Most all around here carry weldcraft. So you should me OK. Take the torch with you and they will be able to stock them if not.

I brought a ceramic cup with me to the welding shop, along with a collet (just for the hell of it) and they had all the parts I needed in stock and they were standard 17 style torch parts. I received the black handled torch and I actually really like it a lot.

Once I realized that the parts were standard, I went to weldingcity.com and spent about $50 (total with shipping) on 2lbs. of stainless rod, a new cloth zippered cable jacket for the torch, and a ton of different sizes of gas lens cups. The ceramic cups were $2.45 for a minimum order of 5 (49 cents each!), and the welding shop wanted $2 to $6 per ceramic cup! I did spend $3 on one special extended cup for getting into tight spaces, but I bought like 17 cups for around $10. I like to keep an overkill of supply on hand (especially when it's extremely cost effective)...plus I've had a few "slips" of the torch and those ceramic cups don't like hitting the floor too often!

It may not be an issue for you, but I just changed the cable cover/jacket on my torch leads to a zippered cloth style one and it made a huge improvement for me as far as flexibility goes. I no longer feel like the torch is twisting my hand as I weld. I think that upgrade was like $15.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by youngnstudly

I brought a ceramic cup with me to the welding shop, along with a collet (just for the hell of it) and they had all the parts I needed in stock and they were standard 17 style torch parts. I received the black handled torch and I actually really like it a lot.

Once I realized that the parts were standard, I went to weldingcity.com and spent about $50 (total with shipping) on 2lbs. of stainless rod, a new cloth zippered cable jacket for the torch, and a ton of different sizes of gas lens cups. The ceramic cups were $2.45 for a minimum order of 5 (49 cents each!), and the welding shop wanted $2 to $6 per ceramic cup! I did spend $3 on one special extended cup for getting into tight spaces, but I bought like 17 cups for around $10. I like to keep an overkill of supply on hand (especially when it's extremely cost effective)...plus I've had a few "slips" of the torch and those ceramic cups don't like hitting the floor too often!

It may not be an issue for you, but I just changed the cable cover/jacket on my torch leads to a zippered cloth style one and it made a huge improvement for me as far as flexibility goes. I no longer feel like the torch is twisting my hand as I weld. I think that upgrade was like $15.

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Nice! Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jameslo

Nice! Thanks

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You're very welcome! I got tired of the high prices that all the local welding shops were charging, so now I simply get my Argon bottle exchanged at (my favorite) LWS and almost everything else comes mail order for me. If the consumables at the LWS don't have a name brand on them, you can bet it's the same cheap supplies that you're getting online, just a lot better pricing! If they do have the name brand on them, you get charged for it! Good luck and have fun!:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by youngnstudly

I brought a ceramic cup with me to the welding shop, along with a collet (just for the hell of it) and they had all the parts I needed in stock and they were standard 17 style torch parts. I received the black handled torch and I actually really like it a lot.

Once I realized that the parts were standard, I went to weldingcity.com and spent about $50 (total with shipping) on 2lbs. of stainless rod, a new cloth zippered cable jacket for the torch, and a ton of different sizes of gas lens cups. The ceramic cups were $2.45 for a minimum order of 5 (49 cents each!), and the welding shop wanted $2 to $6 per ceramic cup! I did spend $3 on one special extended cup for getting into tight spaces, but I bought like 17 cups for around $10. I like to keep an overkill of supply on hand (especially when it's extremely cost effective)...plus I've had a few "slips" of the torch and those ceramic cups don't like hitting the floor too often!

It may not be an issue for you, but I just changed the cable cover/jacket on my torch leads to a zippered cloth style one and it made a huge improvement for me as far as flexibility goes. I no longer feel like the torch is twisting my hand as I weld. I think that upgrade was like $15.

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Good little upgrade to the torch with the more flexible jacket. Does it pick up much off of the floor?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mr120

Good little upgrade to the torch with the more flexible jacket. Does it pick up much off of the floor?

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To be honest, it doesn't really hit the floor. If it did, I'd say "Yes", but I route it from my welding cart directly behind the job box I use for TIG welding. As you can see, I added a crossbar to the rack that supports the light fixture, and I route the torch through the crossbar for ease of use. It keeps all the tension off the torch when welding, plus the leads are always off the floor. I bet the jacket would capture every little piece of hair and lint if it did sit on the floor when welding though. My yellow lab isn't allowed past the door opening, yet for some reason I have clumps of dog hair on the floor at all times....and multiple tennis balls, bones, chew toys, etc.:O

Ironman,

I recently purchased a 200DX. It has a WP26 Tig Torch which some consider bulky...but it's not cheap. To minimise this bulky affect, spend some time getting in a stable and comfortable position where you take the Lead out of play. I'm just learning and when I position the lead where it doesnt pull on the torch I weld better. I do have another machine with a small torch and have to do the same set up. I've wound the lead over my shoulder, hang it on a vise grip near where I'm welding etc. I built a loop that clamps on the table but about 24" above it, so the torch n lead drop down to where I want to weld versus dragging it from the floor. After a lot of practice, I don't notice my torch at all and have even learned to use its size to my advantage by gripping as far away from the torch due to heat.

Practice is what will get you comfortable. And good luck!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by youngnstudly

It may not be an issue for you, but I just changed the cable cover/jacket on my torch leads to a zippered cloth style one and it made a huge improvement for me as far as flexibility goes. I no longer feel like the torch is twisting my hand as I weld. I think that upgrade was like $15.

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Was it this one?

http://www.weldingcity.com/tig-torch...-w-zipper.html

Or this one?

http://www.weldingcity.com/tig-torch...-w-zipper.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tensas

Ironman,

I recently purchased a 200DX. It has a WP26 Tig Torch which some consider bulky...but it's not cheap. To minimise this bulky affect, spend some time getting in a stable and comfortable position where you take the Lead out of play. I'm just learning and when I position the lead where it doesnt pull on the torch I weld better. I do have another machine with a small torch and have to do the same set up. I've wound the lead over my shoulder, hang it on a vise grip near where I'm welding etc. I built a loop that clamps on the table but about 24" above it, so the torch n lead drop down to where I want to weld versus dragging it from the floor. After a lot of practice, I don't notice my torch at all and have even learned to use its size to my advantage by gripping as far away from the torch due to heat.

Practice is what will get you comfortable. And good luck!

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Any pictures of your setup. A lot of people have that torch :D

How do I post a picture?

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Originally Posted by Tensas

How do I post a picture?

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http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...s-to-the-forum

Quote:

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

Was it this one?

http://www.weldingcity.com/tig-torch...-w-zipper.html

Or this one?

http://www.weldingcity.com/tig-torch...-w-zipper.html

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Mike, I just checked my receipt and it was the 3" wide version. I initially ran a piece of string around the torch leads with the factory covering in place and measured the circumference that I got by marking the string and laying it up against a tape measure. It ended up being just the right size when I installed it and the length was near perfect too. The gain definitely outweighed the expense in my experience, but not everyone has a problem with the stiffer lead covering/jacket in the first place.

http://www.weldingcity.com/tig-torch...-w-zipper.html

BTW I just went over my expenses on that receipt and the SS 309 filler was less than $6.50/lb.! Good deal considering what the LWS charged for a pound of stainless 308 (around $17/lb!). The LWS knew they wouldn't sell any welding supplies if they posted prices in the store. I learned me an expensive lesson that day!:(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by youngnstudly

Mike, I just checked my receipt and it was the 3" wide version. I initially ran a piece of string around the torch leads with the factory covering in place and measured the circumference that I got by marking the string and laying it up against a tape measure. It ended up being just the right size when I installed it and the length was near perfect too. The gain definitely outweighed the expense in my experience, but not everyone has a problem with the stiffer lead covering/jacket in the first place.

http://www.weldingcity.com/tig-torch...-w-zipper.html

BTW I just went over my expenses on that receipt and the SS 309 filler was less than $6.50/lb.! Good deal considering what the LWS charged for a pound of stainless 308 (around $17/lb!). The LWS knew they wouldn't sell any welding supplies if they posted prices in the store. I learned me an expensive lesson that day!:(

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I will grab a couple and try them out. As time grows you get used to the stiff cables, but if only $15 that is a bargan over CK, worth a shot. I have seen cloth ones as well, like on our spool guns.

Yea, the LWS never have prices out. Like HVAC, plumping supply, etc. You get to the counter and you pay the price. And they're never there for you on a weekend for those prices either :)

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

You get to the counter and you pay the price.

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Kinda have to wonder who continues to shop there, when pretty much everything is available online. I wonder if anyone knows exactly how much internet sales have eaten into brick and mortar sales... do they have captive customers that keep them going? When I worked at an LWS- back before the internet was even a gleam in Al Gore's eye- it was always fun when guys from the railroad came into the store- they were spending someone else's money and didn't care, and when they stopped in for supplies, any purchase on any whim went on the pile. There was an Air Base nearby too, and around September they were getting close to the end of the fiscal year and in danger of losing their "use it or lose it" budgets so they would leave with a truckful too.

As with local hardware stores and Home Depot, higher brick-and-mortar prices with less selection will drive customers away, and that will drive prices up... which will drive customers away and drive prices up in a continuing vicious cycle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

I will grab a couple and try them out. As time grows you get used to the stiff cables, but if only $15 that is a bargan over CK, worth a shot. I have seen cloth ones as well, like on our spool guns.

Yea, the LWS never have prices out. Like HVAC, plumping supply, etc. You get to the counter and you pay the price. And they're never there for you on a weekend for those prices either :)

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Since the nerve damage in my hands showed up, I have become a lot more "sensitive" when gripping or holding things with my hands. Before the nerve damage, I always used water-cooled torches, and they are such a pleasure to use that I never had a problem in the first place!

It drives me crazy that the LWS are never open on weekends! You'd think a few of them would open for half a Saturday or something. Heck, even 2 of the 3 local steel suppliers are open on Saturday! That is normally when I run out of supplies though (half way through the day), so it'd be my luck that the LWS would close 15 minutes before I arrived. Then I'd have to read the lovely sign on the front door that says "Sorry, but we closed the second you ran out of supplies and we're now sitting at the bar laughing about it! Come back some other time when we're open! Haha!!!!:P:P:P"

.....I swear the sign says that on it if you look at it in just the right light!:O

Quote:

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Originally Posted by youngnstudly

Since the nerve damage in my hands showed up, I have become a lot more "sensitive" when gripping or holding things with my hands. Before the nerve damage, I always used water-cooled torches, and they are such a pleasure to use that I never had a problem in the first place!

It drives me crazy that the LWS are never open on weekends! You'd think a few of them would open for half a Saturday or something. Heck, even 2 of the 3 local steel suppliers are open on Saturday! That is normally when I run out of supplies though (half way through the day), so it'd be my luck that the LWS would close 15 minutes before I arrived. Then I'd have to read the lovely sign on the front door that says "Sorry, but we closed the second you ran out of supplies and we're now sitting at the bar laughing about it! Come back some other time when we're open! Haha!!!!:P:P:P"

.....I swear the sign says that on it if you look at it in just the right light!:O

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Too funny. The local steel folks here have the same sign. Years ago Welder Services was open Sat. No more.

And we have one metal supplier open Sat. And everything there is aluminum price too. And no matter how small it is $20. I get most of my stuff during the week from an iron works shop a friend owns.

So the 3" nylon worked fine, I will get a couple (only since I have to pay shipping). What happened to your hands. If in a shop, I can relate. But I normally bugger up one at a time.

I have some LWS with Sat hours. But I always have to remember the steel shop has odd hours. They want to make sure they GTFO at 5 sharp, so they close at 4:45 weekdays and 11:45 Sat. Have to time those last minute runs closely.

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

Too funny. The local steel folks here have the same sign. Years ago Welder Services was open Sat. No more.

And we have one metal supplier open Sat. And everything there is aluminum price too. And no matter how small it is $20. I get most of my stuff during the week from an iron works shop a friend owns.

So the 3" nylon worked fine, I will get a couple (only since I have to pay shipping). What happened to your hands. If in a shop, I can relate. But I normally bugger up one at a time.

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My local steel supplier also has aluminum prices, unless you buy copper...then they charge you like $8/lb FOR USED! If you purchase any raw materials that are new and have been previously cut down, you get charged for the steel price by the pound PLUS an added surcharge (per foot) since this piece isn't a full 20 ft. stick, and you weren't the one that paid them to cut it down. Apparently they see it as a convenience to you that they can exploit to the full degree.:O

When I asked how they came to that conclusion, the employee answered "Well, you're getting a custom cut piece of material and not paying the $8-10 fee (per cut), so you're actually getting a better price." Of course I responded by saying "But the last person that purchased material from this stick of tubing ALREADY PAID TO HAVE THE MATERIAL CUT DOWN! YOU'RE CHARGING ME FOR SOMETHING THAT YOU ALREADY CHARGED SOMEONE ELSE FOR, DURING A TRANSACTION WHICH I HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH! Besides, do you have ANY idea what the odds are that I'm actually going to need a piece of material that is exactly 67-9/16" long? I came here for a 4 foot section!" I could see what was about to come out of this guys mouth next, before he even knew he was going to say it ("Well, I'd be happy to cut this down to 48" for you, but there will be a cut charge.";))....He didn't say that, but we both knew he was thinking it.:D

Yes, the 3" worked perfectly for my 17 aircooled torch. I assume the 4" is for watercooled torches...or?:confused: Luckily my nerve damage is NOT from doing shop related work. Everyone I know that has had an accumulative injury from working in a shop has major issues with their body (worn knees, worn discs in their back, worn rotator cuffs in shoulders, neck problems, de-arched soles in their feet, etc.....all of which my father has!). Instead I went through nearly 8 months of chemotherapy to get my nerve damage. It was around 8 years ago, but the effects have stayed with me and will continue to do so. I ended up losing my fingernails and toenails, plus the skin on the bottom side of my hands and feet continually peeled to a lovely shade of red. Not fun, but you'd think that I wouldn't be able to use my hands at all after going through that. Luckily I can still have my fun metal working, sewing, working on cars, etc. I just don't have the ability to do it everyday, or for hours on end like I used to. It's good to get away from that stuff and take breaks anyways! Less stress!:)