Thinking about putting a Flex Loc 230 torch on the 250ex, anybody got one or know how good they are? Main questions I have, does the swivel torch stay tight and with no water running through the head cause any problems?
Printable View
Thinking about putting a Flex Loc 230 torch on the 250ex, anybody got one or know how good they are? Main questions I have, does the swivel torch stay tight and with no water running through the head cause any problems?
CK torches are top quality and rated at 100% duty cycle for both AC and DC. The FL230 has a higher duty cycle than the 250EX so it's a perfect match. I'll be buying one for my 250EX soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by srp
It will be perfect and you will regret not getting it sooner.Its makes your welds be more precise with less changing angles and repositioning your work.
I got my 250 EX a few weeks ago but didn't get the cooler, (no more money). I'm thinking about an air-cooled CK flex-loc torch but don't know which one to get. flex-loc 130 or 150? Do they make one that will stand up to 200 amps?
I really want to start using this welder!!!
Hook a garden hose to the inlet connection of the supplied water cooled torch and crack the valve to get flow out of the exit. Put a small hose on the exit and put it out in your yard. Weld away.Quote:
Originally Posted by ward cleaver
That is what I do and it works perfectly. I could get a tig torch cooler but why spend the money when just running the water through the torch and down the drain is so much easier and cheaper. Plus the water temperature is always cooler even more than water from a tig torch water cooler.Quote:
Originally Posted by sportbike
This method is more popular than many people think. I'd do it myself if my faucet wasn't so far away.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve
I is all great till you forget to turn the water on or go to bed and forget to turn it off. I did it and it is not worth it dragging the hose around if you have to move the welder and finding a places to dump the water for us in the north it is harder in the winter making an ice rink where you did not want one I am not on town water or close to a drain. The water cooler is perfect for me turn the welder on water is now on turn the welder off water is off move it anywhere and only have the power cable to deal with. Maybe you have an old machine that do not move it might work out and live in warmer climate.
I have both the 130 and 150. I use the 130 more often. I use the 150 when I have quarter inch aluminum to weld. Although I started welding with what came with the unit. From my experience I would recommend purchasing the 130 first. I purchased all of my ck stuff through weld fabulous.Quote:
Originally Posted by ward cleaver
I would like to get the FL 150 too. But it doesn't appear that any of these torches comes with a trigger switch. Is that correct?
Chris
Brisbane, Australia.
Most torches don't come with a switch. You can get the universal kind that zip tie or velcro to the torch handle, or for something real nice, build your own like zoama did in this post.Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieChris
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...0684#post20684
I ordered a flex loc 230 off of what Zoama585 said. I got the 25 foot superflex cable and the adaptor. It was $310.00. I also got the American made foot pedal while I was at it.
That'll make for a really nice welding package. Be sure to tell us what you think after you've used them for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by gree box
I have the CK Flex Loc 230 with the 12 foot lead. Got it for $180 with a clear cup. I love it and have found it better than the standard flex head torches. The flex head torches that use copper flexible tubing end up leaking eventually as the copper fatigues and cracks. The Flex Loc does not have that problem. If you have a problem with the head, they can be replaced.
I had a Weldcraft flex head tig torch and it was nice, but this CK torch is better overall. I can adjust the head to fit some pretty useful angles where the Weldcraft could not do.
The Flex Loc head stays pretty tight. If you are running a water cooled torch, then make sure you have water running. They will burn up if you don't.
You can switch heads to the 250 series if needed on the water cooled 230. I find the 230 is good enough for me.
Here is a link to the Welding Tips and Tricks.com video on this torch......http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ICnwI3StbY
After doing some heavy duty thinking, I bought two torches for my needs, one was a CK20 for everyday use and a 24-W to get into tight areas, both have the quick connects. The 24-W is a very very small water cooled torch, with a gas lens it has the same duty cycle as the 250EX at 200 amps, so there are no limitations when I use it.
The CK flex hoses are nice. The hoses on my Miller Diamondback torch may be just a bit more flexible. Ck uses a black rubber and Miller used a soft brown rubber, also the hoses on the Diamondback torch are a smaller diameter, they would fit into the handle of a 20 torch easily and the CK hoses are a very tight fit into the handle.
I should have bought a new torch long before now, it was well worth the money. I may still get a Flex Loc 230, if anybody has one, can you post how it's working out?
I have one on my 250ex. Has it's place, it's nice to be able to change the angle on the head when you need/want to. Head get's hot though since there is no water running thru it so keep that in mind if you get one and decide to change the angle of the head after welding a bit. If you forget to, the torch will remind you when you touch it.
I switch back and forth between FL230 and the WP20. WP20 is use more though.
So... the "make sure it has coolant running through it" statement has always had me wondering a bit. So how does one make sure this is flowing? I guess you could pull one of the hoses off and let it spray all over, but thats not really the best way is it? The manual for the everlast 300 cooler says .. check to see if coolant is flowing. .. Ok how? Is there a flow meter on it? (not likely) Take the filler cap off and listen? Please inform me on a way to confirm there is flow, besides torch over heating. Right now I can only assume its flowing.
Some coolers have a flow indicator you can see from the front. (Bernard, Miller, etc.) As you said, you might be able to see or hear through the open cap. CK makes a great fuseblock setup to go in their safeloc connectors that will protect you from coolant failures. There is also clear or semi clear hose you could use a piece of in a key place. I believe the late 250EXT had a flow meter inside it that would trip an error for lack of coolant flow. Lots of ways to skin that cat.Quote:
Originally Posted by The4th
I was just asking to see if there was something that I may have overlooked. I already have a plan. Its a trained mouse on a treadmill chasing some cheese that drives a pinwheel only when the fluid is running. Well thats my back up plan. Ill probably try my other plan first. Because the coolant tube was cut to short and doesnt reach the cooler while in the cart. Ill use this mishap to correct the other mishap. Clear hose alone wont show flow, unless you add particles or something and Im not doing that.
Anyway just thought Id ask ..
*"where did I leave that mouse treadmill?"***chin-scratch*
That's why I mentioned a "key" place. One of my coolers has just this system, the hose is in the return line just before the tank and is in an inverted U. When there is flow it is full of colored coolant, when no flow it is empty. Pretty simple and I never have to take the mouse in to the vet. But the real problem is that when you are welding you won't notice that your flow has stopped until there is coolant all over the floor from the melted power hose. That's why I think the CK fuse block system is the best way to go. No matter the cause of poor cooling, it will blow before you damage anything. I've never had a line failure yet, but I worked at a shop where someone blew out 3 sets in short order. The first was due to the hose getting under the wheel of a welding cart, then two more as he didn't properly replace the damaged hose.Quote:
Originally Posted by The4th
http://www.ckworldwide.com/fuse_block.htm
I purchased one for my 250ex as well as the ssc pedal. I got the 25 ft power cables. Don't shy away from the 25 footer as it is so light and small it rolls up as easy as the standard leads that come with the welder. The first thing I noticed when I laid them side by side is the flex loc can not make the same 90 degree bend as the stock torch. So after getting the flex loc in my had and running the first pass I was amazed how the angle works so much better. It's like a 90 but the head sits up on top of the torch. My first pass looked like I had been a welder my whole life. I have a glass lense on it. What a difference this will make for me just because of the comfort of having a lighter torch with a better angle. I truly have more fun welding with it! If your on the fence about getting I hope I pulled you over. 100% worth the money.
Get the SSC foot pedal so much better. Just the motion being smoother is well worth the money.
I know a great welder can make great welds with any torch... But for me this makes better welds right from the word go.
The4th -
I think you may have misunderstood me. That Flex Lock torch has no water running thru the head even if your water cooler is functioning properly. The torch head rotates independent of the handle, is a separate piece (that is removable), and as such is not interconnected to the handle with respect to water flow. Water flows only thru the handle not the handle and the head like on a WP20. Cooling of the flex lok head is accomplished via the air (like and air cooled torch) and by being in metal to metal contact with the water cooled handle. On a wp 20 the water actual flows internal to the torch head.
That is good to know thanks. I was just speaking in general about how there is no way to know if coolant is flowing or not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
That is the one thing I really loved about that machine. Push the switch, nothing happens, look at the display and realize you forgot to turn the water on. Whew, didn't burn up another torch!Quote:
Originally Posted by The4th
I ordered the 25' version of the FlexLoc 230 this morning along with a gas lens kit and some additional accessories. I also ordered that micro switch was linked in the other thread.............. or at least I paid for it (Paypal). Haven't received a confirmation from that co selling the switch. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
cheers
JohnG
I didn't know that! Good information to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Poptm
Redbeard - any idea how the 250 establishes that there isn't any water flowing? I'm curious how that would be implemented.
It had an internal elctro-mechanical flow sensor. There are pictures around here somewhere. Of course that meant you had to run the coolant lines to the units IN/OUT ports.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr120
In/Out ports. I see now. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo