I received my pp256s today.
here are a few starter pics:
L>R
a- Front new design for 2013
b- close up of the front panel
c- front panel connections
d- rear panel
note: I was surprised this came with a molded 6-50P installed on the power cord.
Printable View
I received my pp256s today.
here are a few starter pics:
L>R
a- Front new design for 2013
b- close up of the front panel
c- front panel connections
d- rear panel
note: I was surprised this came with a molded 6-50P installed on the power cord.
Nice, post some pics when you get a chance to weld with it. I had the old PP256 and thought it was nice machine. I really like the newer look that they have.
Looks really nice. Could you post height/width/length dimensions and weight? Thanks!
I will post more info when I get the chance
I started an autocad file I will share when thats done, as well as the basic measurements.
hopefully I can create some heat with it this weekend.
I made a .pdf of the included operation instructions if anyone wants a copy, just ask and provide an email
it's too big to host here (it's 700k)
Attachment 9713 Box as received from UPS. luckily it was fairly well strapped, hate to have seen it w/o 'em
Attachment 9712 Box is heavy. 85 lbs according to UPS
Attachment 9711 opening the box for the first time (there is a double layer cardboard on top)
Attachment 9710 the accessories box as received
Attachment 9709 the pre-terminated power plug
Attachment 9708 fresh out of the box
Attachment 9707 data placard and unit serial number on the side of the unit
Attachment 9706 accessories removed from the box
more pics / info to follow later....
here are some basic drawings with the basic dimensions
more detailed drawings will become available as I find the time to make 'em
I used a tape measure, consider measurements to be +/- 1/16"
on the front, the gas outlet and pilot arc post do stick out a little bit as well as the
gas inlet and power cord on the back. these measurements should suffice for finding or making a cart
for this thing to fit on.
These units have new regulators for tig.
Attachment 9728
foot control
Attachment 9727
foot control connector
Attachment 9726
foot control front side (note: no knob to fiddle with)
Attachment 9725
SR-18 Torch as received
Attachment 9724
SR-18 torch parts tag
Attachment 9723
SR-18 torch
Attachment 9722
SR-18 Torch parts
Attachment 9721
SR-18 torch head
Attachment 9720
Torch connections
Attachment 9729
supplied bagged hardware
More coming. If you want to see anything specific or ask questions, please do. :)
Attachment 9738
Attachment 9737
Ground Clamp
Attachment 9736
Rod holder
Attachment 9735
Attachment 9734
Argon Reg/flow meter
Attachment 9733
Attachment 9732
Air Reg/filter
Attachment 9739
S75 Plasma Torch
Attachment 9731
Plasma Torch flow meter (I think)
Attachment 9730
supplied air hose
Congratulations on your new PP256S! A word of caution, on my 2012 PP256 the supplied screws to install the Plasma air regulator at the rear of my unit were TOO long and came into contact with the windings on the transformer just inside the case at that location. I just reduced the length of the one screw that was too close and was in conflict with the transformer. You unit may not have this issue. Enjoy!!
The Argon regulator, as shown above (pics)Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
Box has a part number: AR GH-191
this specific part number is not in the manual that comes with it, but in the manual, all
the different part numbers that are listed, have the same specifications.
The pressure gauge scale reads in PSI (red, inner numbers(0-4000) and kg/cm² (black, outer numbers (0-280)
the flow meter has two scales;
Ar 0-25 L/min 20°C 0.35MPa
CO2 0-25 L/min 20°C 0.35MPa
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandslam99
thanks for the heads up!
due to your advice and others having issue with the HF gap, I decided to pull the cover off my unit and take a peek, just to make sure everything was okay.
sure enough, the same clearance problem exists with the air regulator mount as last year (surely someone at Everlast knew about this?????)
they could move both holes down about 1.5cm and be okay (or maybe move the transformer forward some?)
the quickest fix would be to supply 2 shorter screws.
Attachment 9789
Attachment 9790
Attachment 9791
The HF gap is new and improved quite a bit from what I've seen in other pictures... this one shouldn't move at all
(located on the left side, front)
Attachment 9792
Attachment 9793
Can that be retrofitted into an older model? I like that much better.
That would be great if you can get the part.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron66
I have tried a number of times (more than one PM), with no luck.
I would be happy to purchase the new points, and retrofit myself.
How about it Oleg?
Thanks,
rivets
From the looks of it, you would change the whole HF board. Probably not worth it unless you slam your welder around all the time like a mobile welding truck. The points on an inverter get so little on time, that even the old style should last a lifetime.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron66
I have had to re gap before. If you exercise the hf start to much, like when you weld something that you can't get a good torch position, the points move probably from too much heat.
Hello,
I bought this unit in April and since I got this grate machine I have always wondered if the fans ever shut off, its so loud, are they really ment to run at idle on power up?
Thanks
Richard
Yes. They are supposed to be running constantly. The noise is relatively small compared to welding or many activities that go on in the shop. The fan provides the duty cycle of the unit. On demand fan units operate at lower duty cycles as well.
Thank you for the quick reply, and you are right the fans are quickly drowned out when I get to work.
My Miller cooler, with it's bronze gear-pump, drowns out Everything in my shop! ;)
Also I love the gauge in the front of the machine, I TyeRap my extended gauge to the front in my older version...
Just got my 256 this this month. Had the same issue with the filter screws being too long. I spaced them out and used them. Also , if you hook up the torch lines as per instructions, you will get cooler water come out your torch head.Quote:
Originally Posted by halojumper
No, we've addressed this issue before about hooking up the torch. The instructions were and are correct. It's just an error in people not carefully reading the manual and looking at the pictures correctly drawn.
It's all on page 12.
Quote:
THE ARGON GAS LINE SHOULD BE TAGGED AS “Ar”. IF NOT, TAKE DRY COMPRESSED
AIR AND GENTLY BLOW THROUGH THE LINES TO DISCOVER WHICH LINE EXHAUSTS
THROUGH THE TORCH OR THROUGH THE RETURN LINE. ON SOME BRANDS OF TORCHES,
THE WATER LINES ARE COLOR CODED: BLUE FOR COOL WATER SUPPLY AND RED
FOR HOT WATER RETURN. COOLER FITTINGS SHOULD BE COLOR CODED BLUE AND
RED AS WELL.
CAUTION: EVERLAST TORCHES ARE EQUIPPED WITH A DIFFERENT COLOR ARRANGEMENT.
IF THE TORCH DOES NOT HAVE RED AND BLUE LINE, THEN THE COLOR CODE
DOES NOT APPLY. FOLLOW THE HOSE DIAGRAM ABOVE, AND TEST THE TORCH BY
BLOWING AIR THROUGH AS DESCRIBED ABOVE IF IN DOUBT. IF WATER BEGINS TO
EXHAUST FROM THE TORCH AFTER CONNECTING THE UNIT, STOP IMMEDIATELY AND
CHECK THAT THE LINES ARE CONNECTED TO THE CORRECT FITTING. DO NOT OPERATE
WATER COOLED TORCHES WITHOUT WATER FOR ANY REASON.
If in doubt, blow in each line with the torch head by your ear. You hear the hiss, that is the argon/gas line.