First Test on Everlast PT 2013-250EX

EVERLAST POWERTIG 250EX-2013
Had some time to play with my the new 2013-250EX lots to learn over old Hobart 400 pound transformer type welder has done me well for 36 years. Made new panel note drawing to the 2013-250EX I got if someone need PDF file PM me and I will send it to you.
Problem I have and would change on the 2013- 250EX the 220volt for the water cooler should be hooked up to the main switch to turn the 220 volt pump on when the welder is turned on. You turn off welder the pumps is still running you turn the pump off it is a problem for me the old weld turned off the pump turned off welder on pump on I will say no more.
Change number two put LED lights on or beside the switches to tell you ON or OFF or MOD it is in. I know the new 255EXT will tell you what MOD you are in but not available yet or I would have bought one.
Change number three the tig gun quick disconnect should be at 2 O’clock not at 9 O’clock that is the pin locking mechanism the hose to the water cooler pointing at 2 O’clock and has a sharp turn to get to the cooler so I change mine to have the hose at 9 O’clock down see Pics.
Change number four none love the machine.
Is this normal for the HF to keep jumping inside the torch/pedal control plug?

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Thanks for the quick review. I' think I'll definitely be changing the rotation on my quick connect. I'm not sure but I don't think the arc should be jumping inside the plug, check your points gap to make sure it's at around .035", which according to spec , is optimum.

I imagine the arc will jump at the point of least resistance. So if your torch gap to the work is larger than the gap between the HF terminals in side the plug, it will jump at the terminals. The way to fix this is to insulate inside the terminal. If i get this issue on mine I'll probably pump some silicone caulk into the terminal to isolate it better.

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Originally Posted by xalky

So if your torch gap to the work is larger than the gap between the HF terminals in side the plug, it will jump at the terminals.

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There are no HF terminals inside a plug that I'm aware of.

It seems Dinse plugs don't all clock the same. It's nice that it's an easy fix to get the lines going stress free. Last thing you want is a kinked water line. I agree that the cooler outlet definitely should be switched. Knowing myself, it is something I will have to modify once I get one for sure. AFAIK the control plug should be all low voltage and current lines, something sounds strange if you are getting arcing. Maybe some HF leakage from the nearby Dinse terminals? Something that needs to be taken care of ASAP. Are you using the HF ground point on the back?

I put a line on the HF nut on the back but that did not do anything. See pics lots of arc in the plug will have to wait and see if tech will give me some ideas.
Switch OFF on tig handle
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Switch ON on tig handle
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Originally Posted by Kempy

I put a line on the HF nut on the back but that did not do anything. See pics lots of arc in the plug will have to wait and see if tech will give me some ideas.

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I take it that is the torch switch plug. Does the foot pedal plug do any arcing? (I would guess not.)

My guess is that you have a HF leak inside the torch cable, probably near the switch. I would look for where that is and insulate it. It can't be good for the welder to get HF leakage into the control circuits. I'm surprised that is hasn't caused a problem. Must be built pretty tough.

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Originally Posted by Kempy

I put a line on the HF nut on the back but that did not do anything. See pics lots of arc in the plug will have to wait and see if tech will give me some ideas.

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The HF bolt on the back is the same chassis ground that your power cord is connected to. If you don't give it a shorter path to ground than the power cord offers, there won't any benefit. I don't think that's the problem here though.

I have not seen the inside of the 2013 250EX, waiting on Oleg there. I have emailed and not heard back

Is this with a foot pedal or just the torch switch? Best to get Ray ext 207, he should be up on any changed in the machine.

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

I have not seen the inside of the 2013 250EX, waiting on Oleg there. I have emailed and not heard back

Is this with a foot pedal or just the torch switch?

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Just the torch switch. I will put the foot pedal on and try it.
The ground cable for the HF was put to the special line for the CNC machine three 8 ft 3/4 rods ten feet apart with double 0 cable

What are the torches like that come with it? ANy pics?

There's a wire laying against someplace the HF circuit runs inside likely or the point gap is off. There' not been a major change in circuit layout, other than beefing up some circuit components.

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Originally Posted by Johnson

What are the torches like that come with it? ANy pics?

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I ordered a WP-20F 25ft that I am using now and a WP-18 Amptrol Torch I will try later got all with the 250EX welder at the same time.
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Originally Posted by performance

There's a wire laying against someplace the HF circuit runs inside likely or the point gap is off. There' not been a major change in circuit layout, other than beefing up some circuit components.

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Well some pictures of the inside. Point gap 0.9MM or 0.035in.
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I like those new points, it's a huge improvement.

My quote: Problem I have and would change on the 2013- 250EX the 220volt for the water cooler should be hooked up to the main switch to turn the 220 volt pump on when the welder is turned on.
My fix since I had to open the case to take pictures of the HF. So this worked just fine now on weld on water cooler.
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could you show a couple pics of the torches that come with it?

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Originally Posted by Johnson

could you show a couple pics of the torches that come with it?

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I do not know if I will ever use it, I got a Weld-Craft WP18-25 water cooled and CS300-25 air cooled and CS310-25 water cooled all new with many spare parts for the torches but I am waiting for a CK liner amp-control for my other torches I use tig handle amp controllers all my welding life so foot pedals are out but have them just in case the amp controller get damaged it is a backup. All this is on top of the Everlast tig torches I got.
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nice pics. my 250ex should be here tomorow.

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

I take it that is the torch switch plug. Does the foot pedal plug do any arcing? (I would guess not.)

My guess is that you have a HF leak inside the torch cable, probably near the switch. I would look for where that is and insulate it. It can't be good for the welder to get HF leakage into the control circuits. I'm surprised that is hasn't caused a problem. Must be built pretty tough.

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Problem fixed take out all the pins that are not used the factory torch dose not have them that comes with the machine little heat shrink now know more arcing.
This is a picture of what it is now from Duncan Everlast Canada
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Kempy, just to be as clear as possible. So you took the wires off the plug from the inside of the machine. And the plug was the "connector" jack going out to the pedal? Did you find out if the other wires did anything, or why they are there? I pick up my machine from UPS tomorrow and want to make sure if it's broke I know how to fix it right. Thanks - Ryan

Or is it the torch plug itself? Also maybe this only effects the Canada machines? Thanks....

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Originally Posted by zoama585

I like those new points, it's a huge improvement.

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I agree with this. Looks like it might be a little easier to get access to also.

I picked up my 250ex tonight and aside having the front bezel cracked it works fine.....gotta love UPS. I did notice however the HF start take a little while to get an arc going....is that a gap problem? It will sit there for a couple seconds and then start the arc....almost like it doesn't know it's started yet.

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Originally Posted by Johnson

I picked up my 250ex tonight and aside having the front bezel cracked it works fine.....gotta love UPS. I did notice however the HF start take a little while to get an arc going....is that a gap problem? It will sit there for a couple seconds and then start the arc....almost like it doesn't know it's started yet.

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Make sure your preflow isn't cranked up high. Typically .1 to .5 seconds is plenty, if you use it at all.

Bezel cracking seems to be the big shipping damage issue. I wonder if there is a solution for that such as a stronger bezel, better foam inserts, or both? It's not like I expect UPS to get any better in handling. Or like Oleg mentioned maybe it's time to look into alternate carriers.

Johnson,

Turn off the pre-flow and see how the unit performs and let us know. I have not see or heard many cracked bezel issues in some time, even during the holidays this year..

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Originally Posted by Johnson

Or is it the torch plug itself? Also maybe this only effects the Canada machines? Thanks....

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Just pulled the pins out of the plug that is on the end of the torch for the switch 2T or 4T control. Just take the little screw out of the chrome cover and the two screws holding the wire and filler out then unscrew the chrome part you will see the spare pins squeeze them together and push them out from the wire side. The picture on #5 is plug in to the welder with the chrome cover out of the way. NOTE look at the plug end that goes into the welder and see if it has two sliver connectors if so leave it only if all the pins are there you can remove them if you have the problem. The foot pedal as all the pins do not take it apart it will not have the little screw it is all glued together.

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

Johnson,

Turn off the pre-flow and see how the unit performs and let us know. I have not see or heard many cracked bezel issues in some time, even during the holidays this year..

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Yes Mike and Rambozo that might be the problem I had that when I was playing around with mine set the pre-flow to 3 seconds and could not figure why it would not start, it would flow gas but had know arc or HF. It is a good feature to make sure the gas in covering the weld area before starting to weld.
It is good to see that Everlast and Forum member are always ready to help, keep up the good work.

I'm going to double check the preflow and try the machine some more in a bit....I'll report back in an hour or so. Thanks for the help Kempy. The bezel isn't the end of the world....at least the unit still works. Oleg said he can take care of it so no worries. I did notice a small amount of side to side movement in the box...that and the "normal" UPS treatment is hard to survive.

ok there is something defiantly wrong.....it just holds the HF arc for ever. It will be HF arcing and after 30 seconds decide to start the welding arc. Sometimes less sometimes more. I cleaned the ground, adjusted gas preflow to zero, tried a different torch, super sharpened tungsten, and it still does it with the pedal floored. The AC lights up right away, but the arc is wandering all over the place and makes a loud snapping, clicking noise. I think the unit got goofed in shipping.....:( I bummed out, I really needed this machine to start some work. Would the point gap cause any of this? I see the HF arc it just won't start welding.....(only when it wants). Oleg I'll call you in a couple hours

So I think I found out what was going on.....my gas lens was junk. It was causing the arc problem. I switched over to a normal collet and all seems well.....:) So besides the crack in the bezel the machine is ok:) I'll give it a good solid amount of weld time over the weekend.

Are you holding the tungsten 1/8" or less off the metal?

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Originally Posted by Kempy

Yes Mike and Rambozo that might be the problem I had that when I was playing around with mine set the pre-flow to 3 seconds and could not figure why it would not start, it would flow gas but had know arc or HF. It is a good feature to make sure the gas in covering the weld area before starting to weld.
It is good to see that Everlast and Forum member are always ready to help, keep up the good work.

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I rarely use pre-flow. Just purge the line with the trigger when you first start. It will hold the argon after that.

Ok after messing with the machine some more it appears it does have a problem. I use a Dynasty 200dx and 350dx 5 hours a day. I know how to hold the tungsten, start and arc...ect. While I'm welding the HF kicks on and just keeps buzzing....while I'm welding. Also when I set the machine to pulse HI around 200hz, it will start at 200hz then as I start welding it slows down to around 30hz then as I keep depressing the pedal it keeps speeding up? The HF starting issue comes and goes....I was trying to weld some razor blades together after school to test the low amperage (see photo). The machine amperage on the panel would be set at 10 amps...then after welding be at 6 amps. Then jump to 13 amps. Not sure what is going on.....Attachment 9705

Your pulse may be synchronizing with your AC frequency if it happens in AC, making it seem to slow down. But if your pulse is on, the unit samples the amps and it will read various amp readings while the pulse is on...either that or your foot pedal is slipping or a bad place in the pot.

What happens when you flip the pulse to low? Does it maintain?

His Pulse was at 300hz , I think Ray already took care of him . units is fine

I'm uploading a video as Ray requested on youtube. When I first start an arc it is pulsing fast...then as I push the pedal more it slows the pulse, then as I push more it speeds it up....then as I "floor" it it slows down again. I'll post another video of the HF issue turning on in mid weld in a couple minutes. Here is the youtube link - http://youtu.be/pyLHH7SvZow .....it will be live in about 10 minutes.

Thanks for guiding me through this buy the way. I know you guys take care of your customers and I stand buy the product 100%. Like I said I'm guessing if it's a unit problem it was causing in shipping. It's that or I'm overlooking something big time -RJ

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Originally Posted by Johnson

Thanks for guiding me through this buy the way. I know you guys take care of your customers and I stand buy the product 100%. Like I said I'm guessing if it's a unit problem it was causing in shipping. It's that or I'm overlooking something big time -RJ

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Have you checked the gap on the points? Tried them at .030 and .040? I did not re-read the thread, but something to check.

Looks like something got bumped in shipping. Thanks for taking care of me Oleg.