Poor weld quality on my 200DX. Need help.

Just purchased the PowerTig 200DX, after opening it up I was pleasantly surprised at how well everything looked. It was very easy to setup and get going. However once I got going, I could not get a good weld out of it. After doing some research on here, and playing with the setting for a few hours, with no luck, I decide to ask the experts. I'm not new to TIG welding, but I am new to the PowerTIG.

I'm just messing around on some 3/16 carbon steel. I'm using 3/32 2% thoriated tungsten, 3/32 ER70s-6 filler rod and I'm using the foot pedal. I'm using 100% argon with the flow meter set to 20. No argon leaks that I can hear.

Here are some pics of the welds, and my settings on the front of the machine. Any help is appreciated!


http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...homas/weld.jpg

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...omas/weld1.jpg

Looks like to much heat and way to much argon flow.Turn your amps down to about 110-120 , Try the argon flow at 6-7 on the gauge.

If you are using the gauge that came with the unit, 20 is equal to 40cfh. I would put it at 6-7 like previously mentioned. The two math it out at almost half of each other. 1cfh = .47 lpm

I agree too much argon ... I made the same mistake when I go my 200dx ... the meter is different to what I had been using. Also for steel use DCEN and remember the three C's and the three P's ... clean, clean, clean and practice, practice, practice. When you start doing aluminum set to AC and remember that the balance control is backwards to Miller and Lincoln with them you would set frequency around 100Hz w/ a balance around 70% ... with an Everlast set frequency @100Hz but the balance around 30% otherwise you WILL fry your tungsten and melt your cup.

I turned the Argon down to 6, and the amps to 115. Still no change. I have the torch plugged into the negative side. I've been cleaning the material with a flap disk.

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Originally Posted by RDK_YJ88

I turned the Argon down to 6, and the amps to 115. Still no change. I have the torch plugged into the negative side. I've been cleaning the material with a flap disk.

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New pic of the results ?

This weld is the first one I did after the changes that were suggested.

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03338.jpg


I decided to try a different piece of material to weld on and got these results. (no changes to the welder from the above results)

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03339.jpg

Looks like the changes have worked. Thanks for the help guys! I still need some time getting use to the new setup, but here's my progress.


http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03342.jpg

Maybe the first piece was stainless or sumething? Looks like you are getting there now.

That's strange... The only throng I can think of is that the original steel was a strange alloy or contaminated deeper than the flap wheel was cleaning off... Even if it were stainless it would still weld and look okay. Maybe the tungsten was contaminated and you finally ground the messed up bit off?

It was very strange. I was welding to a 4x8 sheet of 3/16 carbon steel. While welding it seemed normal, good puddle and flow, wasn't spattering or anything. But when you were done you could see all of the porosity. It may have just been the material being dirty, I suppose.

Looks like something was cooking through it all. Maybe some junk in the cutoff wheel when you scuffed it up? If you still have, try again but run the amps up more. Or just pitch it in the scrap pile :)

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Originally Posted by RDK_YJ88

It was very strange. I was welding to a 4x8 sheet of 3/16 carbon steel. While welding it seemed normal, good puddle and flow, wasn't spattering or anything. But when you were done you could see all of the porosity. It may have just been the material being dirty, I suppose.

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That is strange but it looks like you’re on the right track … could be the steel you were trying to weld before had some oil of other contaminant … I didn’t see any mill scale (which frankly never gives me much issue) the steel you had at first did have a sheen to it … possibly it had nickel plating which is not great to weld and produces nasty vapor. If you start having issues again check to see that all your connections are tight, watch your angle and try to keep a tight arch … anyway … glad things are coming together.

Maybe some funk in the lines or regulator that's working itself out? A spray bottle of soapy water is great for finding gas leaks on fittings. A smoke machine is great too, but less available. I suppose you could try a candle, but I've never done it, I work around too many flammable materials. S/F....Ken M

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Originally Posted by RDK_YJ88

Looks like the changes have worked. Thanks for the help guys! I still need some time getting use to the new setup, but here's my progress.


http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03342.jpg

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That looks a little cleaner. A bit on the concave side, but nice rhythm and looks like your travel speed is pretty good.

I'd say that should be a three pass weld:) S/F.....Ken M

I was just messing around on some scrap. Still need to get used to the bulky torch. Also need to pick up some different cups, and other consumables.

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Originally Posted by Winky

I agree too much argon ... I made the same mistake when I go my 200dx ... the meter is different to what I had been using. Also for steel use DCEN and remember the three C's and the three P's ... clean, clean, clean and practice, practice, practice. When you start doing aluminum set to AC and remember that the balance control is backwards to Miller and Lincoln with them you would set frequency around 100Hz w/ a balance around 70% ... with an Everlast set frequency @100Hz but the balance around 30% otherwise you WILL fry your tungsten and melt your cup.

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I am very glad that I read this link, because I have been having some problems with practicing on aluminum. I also learned on a Miller and was setting my balance in that manner and have burned up quite a few cups and melted some Tungsten. I kept looking at my Miller cheat calculator and all I needed to do was ask Winky what the heck I was doing wrong lol. I will have to try this little tip now! Thanks Winky!

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Originally Posted by makanik1969

I am very glad that I read this link, because I have been having some problems with practicing on aluminum. I also learned on a Miller and was setting my balance in that manner and have burned up quite a few cups and melted some Tungsten. I kept looking at my Miller cheat calculator and all I needed to do was ask Winky what the heck I was doing wrong lol. I will have to try this little tip now! Thanks Winky!

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You are welcome ... it was Everlast support who set me straight ... they are great!

Still having fun with it!

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03360.jpg

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Originally Posted by RDK_YJ88

Still having fun with it!

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03360.jpg

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Looking good. Nice cup walking. Hard to tell from the picture angle, but maybe add just a little more filler. Looks like a bit of undercutting on the top, but it could just be the camera angle, because the bottom looks perfect.

If you look to the right where there is light it looks ok. But a straight on look does looks that way.

We have come a lot way from the title of this thread. Guess the machine is working...

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Originally Posted by Rambozo

Looking good. Nice cup walking. Hard to tell from the picture angle, but maybe add just a little more filler. Looks like a bit of undercutting on the top, but it could just be the camera angle, because the bottom looks perfect.

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Thanks! I need to get some larger cups before I can add anymore filler. I didn't look very close at them before painting and installing them on my Jeep, but I don't think it had very much undercut or any at all.

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

If you look to the right where there is light it looks ok. But a straight on look does looks that way.

We have come a lot way from the title of this thread. Guess the machine is working...

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The machine is working great now. It's just very different from the Syncrowave I'm used too.

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Originally Posted by RDK_YJ88

The machine is working great now. It's just very different from the Syncrowave I'm used too.

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What is so different in DC mode?
Do you have the older version 200dx without the panel amp control?

Dont like the title of this tread :)

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Originally Posted by sportbike

What is so different in DC mode?
Do you have the older version 200dx without the panel amp control?

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It's just a different machine. Pedals different, torch is different, etc. Just something I need to get used to.

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Originally Posted by Oleg

Dont like the title of this tread :)

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Hopefully this thread catches the eye of someone else that had the same troubles as me, and helps them out. I meant no disgrace by it.

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Originally Posted by Oleg

Dont like the title of this tread :)

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As I read different things on the forum on bad welding problems it usually the operator not the machine. Over the years I have set up machine that the operator said it was junk Tig, Mig and Stick welders and made fairly nice welds with them for what the welder was designed for. Inexpensive ones and expensive ones. I have made bad welds to find out it to be bad gas, gas flow, dirt, rod type, tungsten type, wire type, hydro problems and many other thing but not the welders. Usually the welders work or not.

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Originally Posted by Kempy

As I read different things on the forum on bad welding problems it usually the operator not the machine. Over the years I have set up machine that the operator said it was junk Tig, Mig and Stick welders and made fairly nice welds with them for what the welder was designed for. Inexpensive ones and expensive ones. I have made bad welds to find out it to be bad gas, gas flow, dirt, rod type, tungsten type, wire type, hydro problems and many other thing but not the welders. Usually the welders work or not.

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Only in Canada does the word "hydro" mean electrical. :)

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Originally Posted by Oleg

Dont like the title of this tread :)

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The OP should change the title to Great instead of Poor. Those welds look pretty good at this point to me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Oleg

Dont like the title of this tread :)

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On the bright side Oleg … it gets people to look at it and the situation is quickly resolved … but I understand your point ... at least he ends the title with “is it me?” … That’s usually the case because the products Everlast makes are awesome units.

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Originally Posted by zoama585

Only in Canada does the word "hydro" mean electrical. :)

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GOOD ONE We say hydro is manmade and electrical could be anything but it does the same thing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Winky

On the bright side Oleg … it gets people to look at it and the situation is quickly resolved … but I understand your point ... at least he ends the title with “is it me?” … That’s usually the case because the products Everlast makes are awesome units.

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The "or is it me" was added as it was him. Look at his welds now.

I don't think a title change was really in order, I wasn't bashing the machine or the company at all. I was simply stating the problem I was having in the title. I even said I was impressed by it when I opened it.

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Originally Posted by RDK_YJ88

I don't think a title change was really in order, I wasn't bashing the machine or the company at all. I was simply stating the problem I was having in the title. I even said I was impressed by it when I opened it.

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You have to see if from a business side. We have first time people looking at our products on the internet, if they look on our forum and see your post titled "200DX poor quality weld" at the top of the forum right now, many will go elsewhere and not even read, just being honest.

I was a Miller/Lincoln guy years ago, it was hard for me to try Everlast with bad internet posts way back then, glad I bought one, now I work there (for many years) and currently have 6 units I use daily.

If you want us to remove the part from the title we will, but it was clearly not the machine and I thought it better described the thread. Let me know and I will put it back or change it to what YOU like. But I agree with Oleg, the title make us look bad.

We know you were looking for help and not bashing us, we know that, but from the outside the title looks bad, like our 200DX does not weld well.

PM Oleg, Mark or I and we can change it back and remove your and my last post. But I think it was a confusing title as well. Maybe "I am having weld quality problems with my new 200DX"? Anyway, let us know.

It's not the content of the title, it's the fact that you changed, or reworded things, so you look better. Plus I don't see why my title was changed, when 3 posts above mine is a thread titled "everlast SUCKS!!".

From a business stand point, people who do read the thread may wonder why your changing thread titles and question what has, or has not been "edited".


Either way, the problem was my mistake and it has been resolved. If anyone wants to talk about this further, we should probably take it to Private Messages.

My comment about it was not intended as an insult but rather a joke. I agree with you that the title does not speak the entire story and I agree that a business should not try to hide things. I personally have not seen Everlast attempt to hide things and not too long ago there was a thread that looked bad for Everlast but they did not try to hide it. Anyone who really cares should read the thread and make their call based on what they find inside the thread opposed to just the title.

The thread title is more accurate for our customers/readers and future customers. That simple. I was going to add a ":D" to the "Everlast Sucks" thread as well. To make it accurate, it was a joke, we all saw that.

I see nothing left to PM or talk about unless you still have a problem with the title being more detailed? You can PM me if so.