2007 Subaru STI - Weekend Warrior

NASIOC Build Thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2190223

Recently won NASIOC Top Scoob #030: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2434158

2007 Satin White Pearl Subaru Impreza WRX STI


597 AWHP/504 AWTQ @ 27.2psi on Pump Gas + 50/50 Meth Injection
Quickest ET: 11.24 @ 127mph (On 18" rims + 265/35/18 street tires) - Only made one pass at time (no roll bar)
Home Built by Me
Tuned by Dominic Acia at Maxwell Power Services www.getadomtune.com


My YouTube Channel for Videos! http://www.youtube.com/alcoolaid


My Razzi Channel for Pictures! http://razzi.me/a/19864


How she looks like:
http://www.matt-kwok.com/blog/wp-con...k-maypr-17.jpg


http://www.matt-kwok.com/blog/wp-con...k-maypr-43.jpg


http://www.matt-kwok.com/blog/wp-con...k-maypr-63.jpg


http://www.matt-kwok.com/blog/wp-con...k-maypr-67.jpg


2012
http://just.razzi.me/photos/826632/c4bd45f.jpg


2011
http://just.razzi.me/photos/826637/fea3755.jpg


2010
http://just.razzi.me/photos/826543/6cfd622.jpg


2009
http://just.razzi.me/photos/826597/2a5a6c1.jpg


On the track with HondaAtHeart in 2010 @ Pacific Raceway
http://just.razzi.me/photos/826629/a9c22c6.jpg


Mod List:


Engine:
JE 925SD Custom Forged Pistons 99.75mm
Maxwell Power Services Super H-Beam +2mm Long Rods
Factory STI 79mm Crankshaft
Dan Benson Racing Darton Sleeved Block
Engine Fully Blueprinted and Balanced
ACL Race Rod and Main Bearings
Kelford 276/272 AVCS Cams
5-Angle Intake Valve Job
3-Angle & Radiused Exhaust Valve Job
Ferrea +1mm SS Intake Valves
Ferrea +1mm Super Alloy Exhaust Valves
Supertech Dual Valve Springs
Supertech Titanium Retainers
ARP Custom Age 625+ Head Studs
ARP Case Bolts
STI 11mm Oil Pump
Gates Racing Timing Belt
Gates Racing Alternator/PS Belt
Mocal 19 Row Oil Cooler -10AN Fittings
Mocal Sandwich Adapter w/ Thermostat
Koyo R2704 53mm Racing Radiator
Custom Twin-Scroll Header and T4 Up-pipe
Custom 3.5" Catless Downpipe
Borgwarner S300sx 83-75 .91AR T4 TS Turbo
Dual Tial 38mm V-band Wastegates w/ external dump tubes
MAC 3-Port Boost Solenoid
AEM 3.5Bar MAP Sensor
Cobb MAP Adapter
Custom 4" Aluminum Intake
Boost Logic Turbo Blanket
JIC Titanium Exhaust
APS DR725 FMIC with Custom Pipes
Tial Q BOV
TGV Port and Delete
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Rotated Intake Manifold
A/C System Removed
Crawford Performance V2 Air/Oil Separator
GrimmSpeed 8mm Phenolic Spacers
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump Intank
Bosch 044 External Fuel Pump
Canton Racing 8 micron Fuel Filter
Custom Fuel Surge tank
Aeroquip -8AN Feed and -6AN Return Fuel Lines
Injector Dynamics 1000cc Fuel Injectors
Aeromotive Top Feed Fuel Rails
Aeromotive A1000-6 Fuel Pressure Regulator
Aquamist HFS-5 Meth Injection System 2x1.0mm nozzles
Spec C STI 12L Intercooler Spray Tank
Vi-Pec V88 Standalone ECU with Anti-Lag and Launch Control
Odyssey PC680 Battery


Drivetrain:
ACT XT-SS Clutch
STI Group N 6spd Short Shifter
STI Group-N Tranny Mount
STI Group-N Engine Mounts
STI Group-N Pitch Stop Mount
ACPT Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
Street: Volk TE37SL 18x10.5 +22 Special Color Diamond Black Hankook Ventus Evo v12 295/30/18
Track: Rota DPT 18x10 +35 Hoosier R6 275/35/18
Rays Black Lug Nuts
Street: Hawk DTC30 Front Brake Pads
Track: Hawk DTC70 Front Brake Pads
Hawk DTC30 Rear Brake Pads
Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid
Girodisc 2pc Front Rotors
Quantum Motorsports Brake Ducts


Suspension:
RCE Tarmac 2 Coilovers
Hyperco Springs 600/500lb
Corner Balanced
Whiteline Anti-lift Kit
Whiteline Rollcenter Kit
Whiteline Max-C Motorsport Camber/Caster Plates
GTWorx Rear Camber Plates
SPC Front and Rear Camber Bolts
STI S204 Carbon Fiber Front Strut
Cusco Carbon Fiber Rear Strut Bar
Kartboy Rear Diff Outrigger Bushings (Black)
Kartboy Rear Subframe Bolts
Turn in Concepts Rear Diff Mount Bushings - RACE
Turn in Concepts Lateral Link Bushings
Turn in Concepts Forward Trailing Arm Bushings
Turn in Concepts Rear Trailing Arm Bushings


Interior:
Compustar Pro 2W9000FM-AS
Defi Amber BF Boost, Oil Pressure, EGT
AEM Digital Wideband Gauge
Aquamist Meth Injection Gauge
Subtle Solutions Ashtray Gauge Bezel
Gruppe-S CF Triple Gauge Pod
STI Titanium Shift Knob
STI Limited Hazard Button
Pioneer AVH-4300DVD
Stripped Interior
Sound Deadening and Heat Shields Removed
Airbag System Removed
Valentine 1 Radar Detector
Beatrush Rear Firewall Division Plate
Recaro Profi SPG Seats
Buddy Club Seat Rails
Amerex 2.5lb Fire Extinguisher x 2
Autopower 4pt Race Rollbar
G-Force Camlock SFI 6pt Harnesses
Works Bell Short Hub
NRG 2.5 Carbon Fiber Quick Release
Nardi Deep Corn 350mm Leather Wheel w/ Red Stitching


Exterior:
STI Limited Front Lip
STI Badging Removed
Headlight Blackouts
40% Front Tint
20% Rear Tint
LED License Plate/Daytime Running Lights
Seibon Carbon Fiber Trunk painted White
Rolled/Pulled/Cut Fenders
04-05 STI Rear Tail Lights
KS Tech Hood Scoop Block Off Plate
LIC Motorsport Dry Carbon Fender Flares
Custom 6mm splitter with 100mm extension
Kognition Design 71" Chassis Mount Wing

Nice ride and great pics. I'm sure you'll keep us up-to-date on the mods you make with your new 200dx.

I'll be making some front splitters for friends (aluminum frame) and mild steel brackets on the car.

Also have plans to relocate my oil cooler from in front of the radiator to in front of the passenger side front wheel. Just have to figure out where I'm going to draw air for the brake ducts.

I'm a complete noob about these things and I'm not sure what your existing plumbing looks like but can you draw air from cutouts in the left and right sides of the lower part of the bumper? Great job with the car and look forward to some more pics of your projects.

Nice ride, looks great. I am actually in the process of redoing my setup on my Integra. I haven't decided if I want to go with a normal top mount manifold or forward facing manifold for the 76mm turbo I am putting on.

Nice car..

What made you decide on a fmic over a awic?

Nice engine build! Curious - how is the engine holding out at 597 AWHP? The is extreme for that sized engine to put out that power continuously ....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mr120

I'm a complete noob about these things and I'm not sure what your existing plumbing looks like but can you draw air from cutouts in the left and right sides of the lower part of the bumper? Great job with the car and look forward to some more pics of your projects.

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I have 3" ducting going into fog light covers on each side of the bumper. If I relocate the oil cooler I'll have to find a way to duct the brake duct or the oil cooler. Maybe a NACA duct in the side of the bumper... we'll see

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zedron

Nice ride, looks great. I am actually in the process of redoing my setup on my Integra. I haven't decided if I want to go with a normal top mount manifold or forward facing manifold for the 76mm turbo I am putting on.

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I like to keep the setups simple with what works. 76mm is quite a large turbo! Depending on whether you go with a Garrett or Borg warner will really be the deciding factor I guess.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jason

Nice car..

What made you decide on a fmic over a awic?

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I mostly do road racing so almost everyone uses a fmic over a awic. Less weight, less parts to break down. Awic does have better cooling efficiency over a short time for drag racing and such but for road racing where you'll be wide open throttle for 20-30 mins straight, the water will start heating up quick where as in a fmic the air keeps the charge temps quite stable over a long period of time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike J

Nice engine build! Curious - how is the engine holding out at 597 AWHP? The is extreme for that sized engine to put out that power continuously ....

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It is a 2.5L putting out over 700bhp so I guess we could say that is more than 280hp per litre. The motor runs around 2 bar of boost (29 psi). A regular cast iron liner in the aluminum block would quickly fail over a long period of time but my motor is sleeved with thick ductile cast iron sleeves from Darton made to handle 45+ psi of boost pressure. Along with the ARP custom age 625+ head studs the engine could technically handle 45-50 pounds of boost and make around 1000hp. It's very common in the Mitsubishi community with the 4G63 2.0L motor to make over 1000whp. 500-600whp in a Subaru motor is quite common in America now!

What now is starting to catch on is altering the rod length and piston pin height. This is what we call +2mm rods when we extend the rod 2mm and move the piston pin 2mm up. This allows for a better rod ratio which means less stress on the piston (side loading) and the piston stays at TDC and BDC for longer periods of time allowing for a better combustion in addition to being able to rev the motor up higher. A stock 2.5L STI motor has its rev limiter set to 6700 or 7000 depending on the year. My 2.5L long rod motor with a stock 2.5L 79mm stroke crank revs up to 8500 and has even hit 9100 on the dyno.

The right parts together will make a reliable setup! Not to mention the shop I have been really close with which has tuned my car (Maxwell Power Services in Washington) really knows what they are doing. They have guided me in what parts to buy and how to put everything together :)

Very cool. I have a big turbo MkIV GTI myself, but all the internals are stock. I'm envious of the power you are putting down... and the AWD haha

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

I was about to ask about forged internals. That's what usually makes Subie's go boom.

I had a 07. I flipped it.

Been thinking of buying a higher mileage 05ish. And doing some motor stuff to it.

What you think?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alcoolaid

I like to keep the setups simple with what works. 76mm is quite a large turbo! Depending on whether you go with a Garrett or Borg warner will really be the deciding factor I guess.

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Decided with a regular top mount as I still drive the car on the street. Too many things to get sucked in otherwise even with a filter or screen. I should have it mounted tomorrow or Friday to be ready for charge piping/intercooler mock up.

Man, I thought my neighbors Suburu motor was putting out a lot of power. This is insane. He's got a semi-closed STI block with forged internals and a T4/T3 turbo pushing out around 350 to the wheels on 18 pounds of boost. He's got it tuned to run up to 23psi, but doesn't like to do that for fear of blowing it up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alcoolaid

It is a 2.5L putting out over 700bhp so I guess we could say that is more than 280hp per litre. The motor runs around 2 bar of boost (29 psi). A regular cast iron liner in the aluminum block would quickly fail over a long period of time but my motor is sleeved with thick ductile cast iron sleeves from Darton made to handle 45+ psi of boost pressure. Along with the ARP custom age 625+ head studs the engine could technically handle 45-50 pounds of boost and make around 1000hp. It's very common in the Mitsubishi community with the 4G63 2.0L motor to make over 1000whp. 500-600whp in a Subaru motor is quite common in America now!

What now is starting to catch on is altering the rod length and piston pin height. This is what we call +2mm rods when we extend the rod 2mm and move the piston pin 2mm up. This allows for a better rod ratio which means less stress on the piston (side loading) and the piston stays at TDC and BDC for longer periods of time allowing for a better combustion in addition to being able to rev the motor up higher. A stock 2.5L STI motor has its rev limiter set to 6700 or 7000 depending on the year. My 2.5L long rod motor with a stock 2.5L 79mm stroke crank revs up to 8500 and has even hit 9100 on the dyno.

The right parts together will make a reliable setup! Not to mention the shop I have been really close with which has tuned my car (Maxwell Power Services in Washington) really knows what they are doing. They have guided me in what parts to buy and how to put everything together :)

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Extending the rods and moving the pin up has the same effect as stroking the motor doesn't it. Adds a little more of the bottom end back in.

Kind of, sort of Jason. Stroke length is completely controlled by crankshaft diameter and where the rods are connected to the crank. By lengthening the rod you would get more dwell at top and bottom centers and cut down on the rod angles during the stroke. Having a "straighter" rod angle will give you better transfer of power and an increase in torque. By raising the the pin height in the piston you get a piston that tries harder to stay "straight" in the cylinder without so much rocking back and forth. When the piston doesn't want to rock so much, you can load it more without the rocking damaging your cylinder walls. The higher piston pin height is one of the main reasons he can run 30 pounds of boost without blowing stuff up. The only thing you have to worry about when lengthening the rod is that when the crank is at 90 degrees off TDC that the rod doesn't smash into the side of the cylinder wall. I don't know if his built block is notched for rod clearance, or if you can just get away with a longer rod without modification, but normally you want to go with as long as a rod as possible for best power.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by agent4573

Kind of, sort of Jason. Stroke length is completely controlled by crankshaft diameter and where the rods are connected to the crank. By lengthening the rod you would get more dwell at top and bottom centers and cut down on the rod angles during the stroke. Having a "straighter" rod angle will give you better transfer of power and an increase in torque. By raising the the pin height in the piston you get a piston that tries harder to stay "straight" in the cylinder without so much rocking back and forth. When the piston doesn't want to rock so much, you can load it more without the rocking damaging your cylinder walls. The higher piston pin height is one of the main reasons he can run 30 pounds of boost without blowing stuff up. The only thing you have to worry about when lengthening the rod is that when the crank is at 90 degrees off TDC that the rod doesn't smash into the side of the cylinder wall. I don't know if his built block is notched for rod clearance, or if you can just get away with a longer rod without modification, but normally you want to go with as long as a rod as possible for best power.

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Good info there. Not all blocks need to be clearanced for the increase rod length or when extending stroke. I am not sure about his application as I have never explored the internals of a subaru. His block is sleeved and possibly needed to be clearanced at the bottom of the sleeves but I would imagine it was probably built for this. The sleeves are also going to aid with the amount of boost he can run without worrying about the cylinder walls cracking or blowing apart.

Subies can do with the longer rods and higher pin heights. They need all the piston stability they can get. piston slap has been a big problem in the wrx engines across several generations.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spike

Subies can do with the longer rods and higher pin heights. They need all the piston stability they can get. piston slap has been a big problem in the wrx engines across several generations.

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Ill have to keep that in mind for when my cousin finally builds the sti that he wants. Any other major or big concerns that you know of?

The factory put out 3 different blocks; open, semi-closed, and fully-closed. The open can handle ~350 reliably. The semi-closed can handle ~500 and the fully closed can handle about ~600 without blowing up. If you're planning on more than that I would go with the fully sleeved aftermarket block like alcoolaid did.

how long is the lag running that much boost? I am curious to see your track times running slicks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jason

how long is the lag running that much boost? I am curious to see your track times running slicks.

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It's not bad at all. Starts building boost by 2,000rpm and I can get 25 psi by 3,800 rpm in 4th gear. So well over 4,000rpm powerband. The twinscroll header and twinscroll turbo definitely helps with this.

I only went out to the track twice. Each time I only did one run. Either it was too cold or I got kicked out for going too fast. First run I did 11.34 @ 127. Next time I did 11.24 @ 126. Both times on street tires and low boost. On slicks and high boost I'll be in the mid 10's. Not bad for a car that is setup for road racing.

Have some videos of my runs on my youtube channel. www.youtube.com/alcoolaid

In one video the guy tells me to slow down.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 225

I was about to ask about forged internals. That's what usually makes Subie's go boom.

I had a 07. I flipped it.

Been thinking of buying a higher mileage 05ish. And doing some motor stuff to it.

What you think?

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Yeah, 05-07 pretty much the same but on the 07 you get the longer gears in the transmission which is a good plus imo.

the hawkeyes look fantastic, great job on yours! ahhh i miss my 05 sti