Works great at 130-150 amp but it crackles (sputter) at around 50-75 amp

I have been practicing welding beads on 1/8" aluminum sheets 3/32 2% lath tungsten 150 amp and using the pedal at 15CFH argon, and it seems to be going great, 110HZ and 30% balance. However for the life of me I just cant seem to get a stable arc with amp settings in the range of 50-75 when practice beading 1/16" aluminum sheets. It would sputter intermittently at this amp range, I have played with frequency and balance and nothing seems to stop the intermittent sputter either with 1/16 or 3/32 tungsten. The sputter seems like it is cutting in and out very quickly. Going back again on the 1/8" aluminum at 150amp and it works fine. All my test parts were prepped the same way. I have had no trouble with DC on steel at low amp setting of 30-60 amps and the arc is smooth. I even ground clamped the part and has no effect.

I appreciate any advice you can offer? Thanks

The only thing that comes to mind is to back down the argon a little. What size cup are you using? If you are using an Everlast flowmeter, remember that it is calibrated in liters per minute not cubic feet per hour. A little AC arc instability at low amps when you first start is common, but it goes away once both the material and tungsten are hot. What is your arc length?

My first thought would be arc length and is there any air flow around you (fans, vents). And try less gas as well. #7 cup and 8-10Lpm with our flow meter to start out.

Thanks for the response guys!

I am actually using a Prostar air regulator that I got from Praxair that show CFH instead of the stock valve. Don't have a leak as I can leave the valve open all night and the pressure is the same on both tank flow meter. I am using a gas a lens and went back and forth between the stock lens without much luck while using #7 cup. I set the flow to 15cfh and did not play much with the flow rate. I check the flow rate by pressing the pedal and see the flow meter and its at 15cfh.

As far as arc distance, I don't think i can get any closer. I understand the crackle with the start but when it starts going it should be smooth like on higher amps. Low amp it crackles and really throws me off while adding filler and it does this around every 1/4" to 1/2" of welding.

On AC, you will find that the issue is probably you are getting the tungsten too hot at that amperage for its size. I know what the charts say, but often they are wrong, especially related to inverter welders. If you are using 3/32 at 150 amps, you probably should step it up to 1/8". Which unit is this?

What welder are you using? I had a problem getting an arc started with my 250ex down low in the amps until I turned the start amps knob to "0"....????

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Originally Posted by CGCINC

What welder are you using? I had a problem getting an arc started with my 250ex down low in the amps until I turned the start amps knob to "0"....????

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It's a 200DX, so no start amps knob.

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Originally Posted by CGCINC

What welder are you using? I had a problem getting an arc started with my 250ex down low in the amps until I turned the start amps knob to "0"....????

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Yes, you would IF you are using a foot pedal.

Attachment 8511Attachment 8512

Yes its a 200DX newer version. I don't have a problem starting an arc starts everytime.

Here is a practice piece on 1/8" aluminum plate around 150 amp using pedal to lower once I got it going, using 3/32 Lath Tungsten, #7 gas lens cup at 15cfh argon. 110hz at 30 balance. I am starting to get the hang of feeding rod into the puddle.

The second one is 1/16" aluminum plate around 65 amp lowering as I go with the pedal. I have tried both 3/32 Tunsten and 1/16" with pretty much the same frequency and balance as with the 1/8". I also notice the sputter sounds more like it stops and go really quick.

BTW the lower I decrease the amp with the pedal the more it would sputter?

Well am out of argon now and I am hoping maybe a chance it will fix the problem with a tank swap at the LWS. It could be an argon issue as I did not have this the first week I had the machine. So I don't know if it is the machine just acting up or I have introduce a problem.

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Originally Posted by performance

On AC, you will find that the issue is probably you are getting the tungsten too hot at that amperage for its size. I know what the charts say, but often they are wrong, especially related to inverter welders. If you are using 3/32 at 150 amps, you probably should step it up to 1/8". Which unit is this?

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My problem is not with this setting, its when doing 50-70 amps AC, I get the sputter. have tried both 1/16 and 1/8 tungsten

It could be a dead spot in the pedal. Would be helpful to ohm it out with an needle style meter between 3 and 4 then between 4 and 5.

I will try that, when I get more argon, maybe test out the torch switch and see if there is a difference.

Does not sound like the switch, but ohm pins 1-2 and wiggle the handle around. If it stays shorted, you are good switch wise.

Mike thanks for your help and others who responded.

I got a new tank of argon and my problem went away. Maybe I was at the bottom of end of the tank. How far do you guys actually tig untill you think its time to refill or exchange the tank?

I still had 250lbs showing on the tank and getting constant 15 CFH when I was having the stutter.

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Originally Posted by vicrc

Mike thanks for your help and others who responded.

I got a new tank of argon and my problem went away. Maybe I was at the bottom of end of the tank. How far do you guys actually tig untill you think its time to refill or exchange the tank?

I still had 250lbs showing on the tank and getting constant 15 CFH when I was having the stutter.

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There have been a lot of calls that resulted in bad argon (moisture). You can add a desiccant filer on the output side of the regulator to help. Jody over and welding tip and tricks did a video on a DIY unit. Search the forum for desiccant or dryer and you will hit a lot of threads.

Here is one... http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...ight=desiccant

Glad you are up and running.

I noticed the same thing last night, my bottle was getting low ( 150 psi )and the gas coverage seemed off. My bottle was filled at Praxair but was in outside storage at the local farm supply . I am not sure but it seems the 100 degree plus heat on that bottle in the summer and cool nights could possibly cause some condensate, Not really sure if that is possible or not with a full bottle.

The inline filter in my opinion is now a must for my gas bottle and will research into the materials i need and try to build one.

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Originally Posted by cbmkr

The inline filter in my opinion is now a must for my gas bottle and will research into the materials i need and try to build one.

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I have them on the plasma machines, ti really helps a lot. I've been lucky far as tanks from Prax and WSI. But I am sure, sooner or later I will have to put them there. I will need a few though. Uggh..

I thought In a latter post I had "wouldn't it be funny if the next argon tank fixes the problem". I must have deleted it out thinking the OP would think I was being smart.

I have some new clear water filter housings, that take approx a 2.5" round 10" filter, That would make it nice and easy to build by adding a tube in the center of the housing to push the argon down so it can work thru the desiccant. i will look at one of the filter housings today to see if it will work. I have a question, does anyone know the volume by weight of the desiccant ,trying to figure out the cu ft. per pound to order some today.

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Originally Posted by everlastsupport

I have them on the plasma machines, ti really helps a lot. I've been lucky far as tanks from Prax and WSI. But I am sure, sooner or later I will have to put them there. I will need a few though. Uggh..

I thought In a latter post I had "wouldn't it be funny if the next argon tank fixes the problem". I must have deleted it out thinking the OP would think I was being smart.

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hehe I am such a noob I would not even think of it as a condescending remark.

Man Jody the Jedi is the best! If it was not for him, I probably would never tig weld. Tig is so much fun or I am just addicted to the argon fume, I am already on my 4th bottle. :D

I like the idea of him making the filter out of the hose material because if it pops it want explode and shatter. I don't know too much about how well regulators work but if it passes 2000lb it not going to be wonderful.

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Originally Posted by vicrc

hehe I am such a noob I would not even think of it as a condescending remark.

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Mark will tell you people get upset sometimes (do not believe you can get bad argon). But it happens. I would make the filter or buy one, cant hurt and argon is not cheap on smaller tanks.

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Originally Posted by cbmkr

I have some new clear water filter housings, that take approx a 2.5" round 10" filter, That would make it nice and easy to build by adding a tube in the center of the housing to push the argon down so it can work thru the desiccant. i will look at one of the filter housings today to see if it will work. I have a question, does anyone know the volume by weight of the desiccant ,trying to figure out the cu ft. per pound to order some today.

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Silica gel is 680 grams per liter.

Update: I guess there is some variation brand to brand, probably from different bead sizes. I found one that is 800 grams per liter, for 3.5mm beads