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I spent a lot of time experimenting with aluminum using my 200dx then went back to DCEN for steel because I wanted to find my center before trying some more aluminum (this machine is great for steel) ... when I go back to AC again I want to see if the pulse function will make aluminum a little easier (I find it quite challenging) what is a good basic setting for pulse to start with on 1/8 flat stock?
Hey, Winky.
Not sure if pulsing will help with the learning curve. What do you find the most challenging?
You might want to take a look at:
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...ent-pulse.html
I know he is talking about stainless but it should also apply to aluminum. You probably want to stay away from pulsing below 60Hz. Between 5 and 30 was disturbing for Jody. Below 5 and you'll need to deal with timing your filler rod with the pulses and I'm not sure that would make things any easier for you. Above 30 and you might as well go to 100Hz - 150Hz as it will allow you to control the arc a bit better.
Oh, because you're not using pulse to reduce heat per se, you can probably go with 50% on time and 50% background amps. (however that translates to the Everlast knobs - sorry, I don't have one with those features so I'm not sure). Don't want the arc to get too cold if heat isn't the driving factor for using pulse.
Oh ... and you'll need to boost the max amps you will be using as the background amps will average the arc amps down.
it's a challenge because you have not done much of it. so, no suprise there. pulse function is not for aluminum tig. mig yes, tig no. don't waste your time trying to rewrite the book; practice on SS. if you want to learn to weld aluminum you are going to have to put in the time.
I find the whole concept of aluminum welding somewhat challenging ... getting just the right amp settings for the thickness ... getting proper penetration without melting your work piece away ... things are getting easier though. I went and experimented with the pulse a little bit ... now I'm starting to see the benefit of it ... when I turned the pulse off and went back to a solid current I was starting to get more control of things ... I'm finding that I have better luck keeping the pulse balance fairly low and the freq 60 to 80Hz and the pulse amps not too extreme ... I've sure after I've gotten use to it I will be moving it all around for what ever application I'm involved with but right now I'm just trying to get familiar with the machine and it's capabilities ... it's coming together.
Thanks ... that's good to know ... so I'll not bother trying to use it for aluminum then.Quote:
Originally Posted by fdcmiami
I use the pulse function all the time if not using the foot peddle when welding aluminum when tig welding
Pulse is for helping to keep the heat down ... but as you've seen, it adds a whole bunch of other settings to the mix.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky
there are some TIG calculators out there. YMMV. They might help you get in the ballpark for settings that work for you. I wouldn't take what they suggest as gospel.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/ti...calculator.php
winky when welding aluminum it dose not puddle rite away have to wait for it to puddle . good information http://www.weldcraft.com/2006/11/bas...ding-aluminum/
Thanks ... I had been using the Miller calculator but I think the Everlast calculator is probably better to use since it is regarding their machines.
rod, yes there are applications for pulsed aluminum tig, light gauge material, outside corner etc. the thing is you need to know how to weld aluminum to get there because by choosing this path you have introduced new and for the most part, unnecessary variables into the equation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky
i would suggest to winky that he hook up his foot pedal, turn the amps to max, find a piece of 3/16ths thick Al, and put it flat on the workbench. then i would, without filler, start working that peddle so that i learned the range i needed to be in to create the puddle. then practice holding the torch at an angle and moving it down the piece watching the puddle forming as you moved. then when i felt comfortable with that i would try it with a filler rod. why people think they are going to pick this up overnight just because they bought a nice welder is beyond me.
as you get comfortable with the heavier material move to a lighter gauge. =
Using the pedal will be my next step ... right now I'm switching on off to control my heat ... I was trying to weld with my current too low and then I brought my amperes up I was finding I overheating because I wasn't moving fast enough ... I don't expect to be welding aluminum like a pro at first ... I've been playing with it for over a week now and though my beads may not be beautiful they are solid because whenever I join to pieces together I let em cool then take them over to my vise and see if I can break the weld. I'll get it down ... after I've mastered the 1/8" stuff I'll move to 1/16" I think when I hook up the pedal I'll take your advise and work some 3/16" w/o filler ... I was staying with the 1/8" due to the cost factor ... thanks for the input.Quote:
Originally Posted by fdcmiami
I have used pulse with the foot pedal, but it's more for 2t and 4t use. Jody did a video about pulse settings as well. From what I have read it defeats the purpose to use pulse with the pedal, because your making adjustments with the pedal and filler rod. Using pulse can help put down some good looking beads regardless of pedal or not.
setting pulse is like you switching on off to control my heat . play with the pulse starting low you will be surprised how it help to weld aluminum can almost stay in one spot with a slow pulse and not melt through .
I use 150-160 amps, 125Hz, 30% AC balance (as set on machine), 50-60pps., 30%pulse amps ratio and 60% pulse time on. This is on a 250EX. Same settings work at 180-200pps. and at least up to 205 amps. I also had a hard time with pulse until i found these pulse settings on weldingtricks etc. There is a lot going on and a lot of coordination in TIG welding. When you add pulse there is just more info to process and my brain couldn't handle it. Anyway i hope this helps.
i have the 250ex also sorta takes time to get use to all the control . awesome welder sure like my 250ex
that's all well and good but this guy can't weld aluminum. it is best to start at the most basic level. get some clean al, use default settings, put the amps to max, plug in the foot pedal, and light up your tungsten until you get a feel for that point where the material transitions from solid to liquid. i did not look to see what winky's machine is capable of so i should not have thrown out the 3/16 's thk suggestion offhand.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrSpaceman
if you like jody's videos here is one, the one you should start with.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rR8Rlpf0ELQ
This is exactly what I'm looking to do ... I am having success welding aluminum ... as stated when I weld pieces together I put them in the vise and take a crescent wrench to them to see if the welds break and it almost never happens ... instead the metal bends at a point before or after the weld; it will just take a little more time to refine my technique ... again thanks everyone for the info.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
NO ... that was a very good suggestion and I will go there with the pedal ... I am having luck welding aluminum ... I'm just trying to get it looking better ... and it is ... a little bit at a time ... I am finding myself more and more comfortable with aluminum. I want to hone my skills ... when I have, then I'll make repairs on some classic Triumph mc casings that are waiting for me to fix ... I want my repairs to look good as well as hold ... I'll get it down ... it's all good ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by fdcmiami
I can't imagine teaching someone to weld aluminum without a foot pedal. Sure once you are good with aluminum, you can go with fixed settings, but not while learning. It requires a lot more skill to go without, because you have to adjust your technique to compensate for the way heat conducts through aluminum. This is especially true if you are not pre-heating your parts, and your parts are not huge. The thing is is takes a lot of heat to get the puddle started, but as the aluminum comes up in temp, it takes less and less heat to maintain the puddle without melting through. With the pedal this is easy as you just keep backing off along the weld. Without it, the only thing you can do is adjust travel speed, arc length and filler rod. Or just stop and turn down the welder. The other thing about aluminum is that it does not give you as many visual cues as to the amount of heat in the part, and how close it is to melting. It's a lot more subtle than steel. The good thing is that once you figure it out, most of those skills will transfer back to steel. So learning aluminum will make you a better steel welder, too. The same thing goes for pulse, upslope, downslope, etc, turn them off for now until you get the feel for the heat. Then you will have a better idea of when to use things like that. FWIW most of those functions can just be done with the pedal anyway. and usually easier and better. For example when you are ending a weld, you will see the crater forming and learn how to get it to fill in as you back off the pedal and add a little rod. Too short and you will leave a crater, too long and you will have a bump. Once you can do that on your own, by watching, you will know how long it takes you for a particular material and weld size, and you will know how much downslope to dial in, otherwise you are just guessing. The machine can't see the weld and make adjustments on the fly, like you can.
Starting with a chunk of 3/16" and just running beads is fantastic advice. Plug in that pedal and stop twiddling knobs, for now. ;) Welders have been pulsing with a pedal long before that feature was added to machines. Practice, practice, practice, that is what will make you a better welder.
lol i must be weird i weld better with out the peddle lol . but if i had a good peddle it mite be different i have only used my peddle twice in over 2 years
If those are engine castings that have been soaked in oil, you have picked probably one of the hardest things to repair as a first project. Best to put that off for awhile. Castings in general are not the nicest alloys of aluminum, and the oil will cook out of the pores and mess you up even more. Go to a junkyard and grab some other castings to practice on before you light up on something not easy to replace. But until you have gone through at least a tank or two of argon, I'd stick to clean new material.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky
I would be lost with out my oven to bake stuff before welding , before i got my oven i used a large propane bbq worked good to bake part before welding what works good for cleaning oily stuff is Wesley'sAttachment 7285 white wall cleaner
A friend's shop has a vacuum furnace for heat treating, I have used on occasion for that. It's amazing what it will cook out of what looks like a "clean" part.
my oven go to 900 degrees . great for cooking pizzas hahahahaha
Very astute ... that is exactly why I'm honing my skills before attempting. As far as going to a wrecking yard for other casings HEHEHE it's a 1969 T120R Bonneville Triumph 650 ... there are none left in junk yards ... the repairs needed are tiny cracks from which there are small leaks. I will bake them out first. I could probably fix with epoxy but I hate going there ... JB Weld works ... but it's a band aid; don't like doing that ... nor to I to use Heli-coils and such things ... just doesn't seem right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
lol i had a couple of triumph cub's they was neat Attachment 7286 also have had some BSA and Norton's
Touche' ... that's my next step ... always done things the hard way ... that's probably why I joined The Corps instead of The Navy lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
I didn't mean that they had to be the same kind of castings. Just get any castings to practice on. An old transmission, an A/C compressor, whatever you can find. As long as it's cast aluminum and had some kind of oil in it, you will learn a lot about cleaning, and welding. JB weld, let's not go there. Although Heli-coils do have thier place. There are a lot of brand new parts that use them to reduce wear on things that will be taken apart and reassembled a lot, and where studs won't work. Aluminum threads have a set life but with an insert, they last so much longer, because there is no abrasive wear on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky
You want the hard way, learn on a dinosaur, like this, instead. :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Winky
If it was good enough for grandpa, it's good enough for you. :D
http://www.reuseum.com/wp-content/up...6/DSC01869.jpg
I've used a lot of Heli-Coils in my day ... Thread-Zerts too all have their place ... point well taken ... practice ... yup ... I get it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
I remember those ... Triumph Cub 200cc single four stroke ... what fun!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
I love dinosaurs ... maybe I wont sell my old Thunderbolt at the yard sale Saturday ... or maybe raise the price! LMAOQuote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
Well … Now that my 2T welds on aluminum looking much better now … I’m ganna add instantaneous control … yes … those who have been telling me this is where I should have started … I just hooked up my foot pedal. I know it’s weird but I’ve always done things “the hard way” first … actually there is a method to my madness … I have lived a life filled with lethal dangers … I’m eligible for SS in less than three years … so … it works for me ;)
OK! I just spent the last 10 minutes using my pedal ... all I can say is WOW ... all I had was some 1/8" flat stock aluminum ... I made a couple practice passes in then butt welded a bunch of small pieces together ... YES YES YES!!! I LOVE THIS MACHINE!
Well I know who I am turning to when it is my time to learn.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky
Well Brian it's like Jody says the tricks to Tigging aluminum are the three p's and the three c's practice, practice, practice and clean, clean, clean. I find the practice is the same with all welding ... the more you do the better you get. Aluminum is tough but the more you do it the easier it gets and the more comfortable you get with it. Now I'm going to go down to a 1/16th tungsten and 1/16th filler and start getting into the thinner and smaller things ... the point between heat, lag time and adding filler is critical ... ya need to get into a rhythm when you add the pedal into it you can drop the heat down a little bit so you don't burn a hole if you lag to long. Just as soon as you see the puddle back the torch to the back of the puddle then add the filler and bring it forward and do the same thing all over again ... and don't tilt the torch back to far because you don't have the leading edge of the puddle fully shielded from the air, you can pull the tungsten out a little bit from the cup then hold a tight arc with the torch almost perpendicular ... or at least this is what I'm experiencing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ski
Onya Mate,now your WELDING:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Winky
There you go, I will still keep listening to you guys...Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky