40% saving in gas, is that over a standard tip or standard lens? Do they really weld better? Worth buying?
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40% saving in gas, is that over a standard tip or standard lens? Do they really weld better? Worth buying?
Are you referring to CK Worldwide's "Gas Saver Front End kit"?
indeed.
"Ck Worldwide's Gas Saver™ front-end kit allows the users to save up to 40% of shield gas consumption while providing better shield gas coverage patterns. With better shielding gas coverage patterns the welder can extend the tungsten up to 6 x the diameter of the electrode beyond the edge of the gas cup. (This is achieved in draft free areas using argon gas.)"
I was wondering what the difference is between the standard lens, gas lens and gas saver lens. I want to order a CK 130 amp torch (like Zoama’s) and don’t know the differences in the lens. Anyone have some explanation?
From what I have learned the standard lens works, but it has air current ripples that dissipate the gas quicker. The gas lens has a screen (or a couple) that act as a filter to smooth out the air currents so the gas comes out like a straight tube. At least until outside air disrupts it. Seems to work better for extending the tip out to see what you are doing better. Also the gas lens take a different ceramic cup.Quote:
Originally Posted by NRM
Not sure on the gas saver.
Brian thanks for the info. I remember seeing the picture on CK's website with the standard lens and gas lens although I thought it was the gas saver.
Attachment 7064 this pic shows difference
As you might imagine, this has been covered before. Don't forget to search before you post. ;) If you find a relevant thread, post a reply in there as a further question relating to it, rather than create a new thread. This helps keep the forum posts better organized. Thanks
Check out the below linked threads:
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo.../2603-Gas-lens
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...-torch-nozzles
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...clear-gas-cups
Picture is worth a thousand words. Really does answer a lot of questions. Would like to see how the heat from the tungsten arc affects the gas flow, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
For me, the perfect combination on a wp-9 size torch (same for CK130) is a generic small gas lense http://www.weldingcity.com/tig-consu...r/45v41-45v45/ with nozzle http://www.weldingcity.com/tig-consu...e/53n58-53n61/ and a CK wedge collet http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=8753 .This combination is low cost and very long lasting.
The CK wedge collet is the perfect length so that the gas lens screws all the way in snug and the back cap seats on it's gasket just as it locks the tungsten in place.
The wedge collets can be had cheaper than arc-zone's price since they require you to purchase at least 5 for each size you want, so shop around if money's tight.
I am still curious how they got the Argon to smoke like that???Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
Jake, I did search, several times, got several threads that didn't answer my question. The original question wasQuote:
Originally Posted by jakeru
"40% saving in gas, is that over a standard tip or standard lens?"
So, does the 'gas saver' save over a standard tip or a gas lens?
Where you would run 7 to 8 lpm on a regular collet, you can cut back to about 5 lpm with the gas lens.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trip59
Not to be a pain in the arse, but is that ANY gas lens, or these? In other words, are these better than others, will they work more efficiently or save more than what would be saved by another company's gas lens setup?Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
Probably just piped in steam or something for the picture / video marketing spot. Shine a light from one side to light up the particulate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ski
I did some research... It looks like it can save you 40% over a standard tip. You just have to remember to turn your gas flow down to compensate for the better coverage a gas save or gas lens will make.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trip59
From what I have found the gas lens, like what I described above, has several screens near the tip of the torch to make the gas flow less turbulent. Now the Gas saver is a little different. It has the screen closer to the top of the torch. It is a little different design to make the flow better. They both tend to use a larger cup so they are tighter to get into corners. That is why they they went with the pyrex cups. so you can see closer into the corner. Kind of a give and take. You need to remember to turn the gas down to see the savings. It looks like you get more of a savings with the saver than the lens, but not a large amount.
Personally I don't think I will be using the torch that much to make that much of a difference. Heck I am more likely to forget and leave the tank on.
They all work the same in using a screen to straighten out gas flow, so IMO brand wouldn't make much difference. All I can say with certainty is that the combination I outlined in post #10 works very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trip59
Not to butt in on the thread, but I have found a source for #10 and #12 gas lens cups. This is a picture of the cups with some brass screens that my buddy makes at his work. He used both the 10 and 12 cups when welding aircraft parts. He loves the gas coverage and since he has been doing for years and years I sure am not one to question it :D
http://www.candbmotorsports.com/gall...2/P1000751.JPG
http://www.candbmotorsports.com/gall...2/P1000752.JPG
Chris
cheap screens http://brasspipescreens.com/index.ph...FQ9whwod0SGRqg use there screens but not for welding lol bet they would work great since brass or stainless is available and in all sizes
The ones I posted are punched from a sheet of screen, but I don't see any reason a person couldn't get those, punch the center hole and then make a small die that you could form the sides on.
the brass ones would be easy to make something to form them i agree
I just sent him a text to see if he can grab a picture of the tool that they use to form them.
could use a grommet hole punch Attachment 7092 I have a matco gasketAttachment 7093 making set it would work good
As he described it to me, its a machined steel block with a round steel form. You place the brass disc in the block, sit the form on the top and smack it with a hammer. It forms the "cup" and trims off the excess material. These screens are pretty sturdy. I'm not sure one of those punches could make its way through the material these particular screens are made from.
Is it just the addition of the screen? I thought there were differences underneath, more/finer holes for the argon, etc.
The screens are finer than normal screen and $1.75 for a gas lens is much easier than cobbling something up. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Trip59
There is the gas lens its self that those cups screw onto, then the screen is inserted into the end of the cup. Supposedly the screen helps further reduce turbulence of the gas and provide better coverage.
I've never used a setup like that but I think after the gas leaves the lens it would collimate against the ceramic cup so a screen at the end would difuse the column.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injected65
Jody offers some similar advice with a screen or scotchbrite as an additional diffuser to allow even more tungsten stickout. That would lead me to believe that it further smooths the gas column into a more laminar flow.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...stainless.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-mnZ2oyCxM#!
Shows how much I know.... Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
That may be part of why my buddy has those screens out there. He likes to run his tungsten 1/2" or so past the end of the cup.
What kind of scotchbrite is he using? A quick google and it looks like 3m is using scotchbrite for a whole line of products. If someone uses scotchbrite closer to the arc, do they even need a gas lens collet body? Looks like the close the diffuser to the arc, the better it works.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
Near the bottom http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...stainless.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by undercut
I read that part before I posted and a couple of times after you linked to it. Scotch-Brite is a brand name for a whole host of products. I don't think Jodi was referring to the Scotch-Brite Pet Hair Flat Surface Roller! :D I might be missing something obvious - more specific please!Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
Scotch brite has become a sort of generic term for the fiber abrasive pads made by 3M as well as other companies. Few of the consumer products that bear that name are what you are looking for. Any good general hardware store will have several grades of plain scotch brite pads about 1/4" thick. I think there are plain consumer pads, but most are bonded to sponges or plastic handles and are not what you are after.Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
Here are examples of the plain pads.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3m-scotchbr...e-pads/=i0vxhi
But anything even close to that will work as you are not using it for it's abrasive qualities.
He never specifies, but he talks about cleaning aluminum with a scotch brite pad and then talks about cutting a piece of scotch brite pad to use as a diffuser. He uses it on mig guns as well, reducing gas usage by 5 cfm.Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
Thanks guys. I did do a google and found one instance where someone said they used the white scotchbrite. Interesting concept as the fibers aren't uniformly manufactured. Cheers!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
have to try that with my mig spool gun a diffuser would really help welding aluminum tried my new everlast spool gun today . only had a rolls of 5356 wire have to get some 4043 since welds nicer . took a pic have to get use to not having a speed control on gun like my last one i had .Attachment 7155 not bad since i did not clean the aluminum before welding it plus is only 1/8 aluminum