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Anyone have any tips or tricks to welding nuts to pipe? I'm actually welding 1/4" nuts to 1/2" coupling nuts.
Last time I put the bolt through the nut tacked and partially welded the nut and the bolt started sticking as the weld was cooling. Barely got it out and had to tap the nut to get another bolt in.
For starters I would use square nuts. They have a lot more meat on them. Weld them on without a bolt in them and let them cool before putting the bolt in. TIG is the way to go and keep the arc focused on the thicker part and just wash the puddle up to the nut without putting too much heat into it. Also it helps to grind off any zinc plating before you start.Quote:
Originally Posted by NRM
After you weld the nut start running the bolt through the nut. Sometimes you still have to run a tap through the bolt because of distortion.
I thread the bolt through, usually just to align the nut with the hole drilled in the base metal. Then I back the bolt out while the nut is still hot and malleable. Seems to work with out needing to tap the nut again.Quote:
Originally Posted by NRM
So, you did not use any filler? Just washed the base metal onto the nut? I may have to try that, as my welds came out really cold when I used filler. I probably had a hard time getting the heat focused because I was concentrating on jamming the filler in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
Thanks
Mike
I usually use a little filler, but just get the puddle going good on the base metal before steering it towards the nut. Sometimes I use flange nuts, then you can just weld the flange and that's pretty easy, especially for sheet metal. It all depends on what kind of task you're asking of the nut. I'm a big fan of welding nuts onto items that get bolted together, so you can tighten the bolts with one tool. For that application I just need to keep the nut from turning, so a couple of deep tacks will do the job. If you are going to have more strain on the nut, you will prolly want a little more than that. However, if you weld two sides of a square nut, that will probably exceed the strength of the bolt, so welding all around is a bit of overkill. I don't usually have any problem in running a bolt in afterwards. 1/4" is a lil small, so keep a tight arc and watch the heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by posixPilot
Thanks for the tips especially the square nut tip and I will be using SS nuts. I am going to see if I can get some if not I will use the standard nuts. I think I will use the bolt to line up the hole, tack it, remove the bolt and then finish the weld. I will use 1/16th tungsten and start the puddle on the coupling nut then flow the puddle into the nut. I’ll post pics of the outcome next weekend.
don't waste any time backing that bolt out.Quote:
Originally Posted by NRM
I did this on a jeep. I cut the old ones out and put some new ones back in. The first on I had to run a tap through it, and the second worked perfect. The second nut I turned the bolt up and down several times while it cooled down.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...3-19124918.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...3-19125233.jpg
Now that I think about it, I'm guessing that you are welding the 1/4" nuts to the sides of the coupling nuts, right? So why not just drill and tap the 1/4-20 holes in the coupling nut?
Welding nuts is fairly easy but you do have to take precautions...but you may only need to weld a side at a time if they are overheating. And also try to find some unfinished nuts if you can. That cadmium coating isn't doing you any favors. A plated bolt will cause issues as well if it is overheated while in the nut. The cadmium will start to cause it to seize to the bolt. One other suggestion is to coat the internal part of threads with anti spatter or Hi temp anti seize compound before you start welding. Be careful not to smear it into the weld area.
Is that holding the spring shackle? I think with metal that beat and corroded, I'd fishplate the frame section before I'd weld a nut to that questionable frame. S/F....Ken M
Rambozo yes I am weldinf the 14/"-20 nuts to the side and I did think about threading the coupling nut. These are SS and the wall is very thin not thick like a zinc plated coupling nut. This is why I decided to weld the nuts on. I'm going to see if I can get some flange nuts locally. I will check the dimensions and see if it will fit on the coupling nuts.
Mark is there such thing as unfinished SS nuts?
The better question is; are there such things as finished ones? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by NRM
BTW cadmium has not been used on fasteners in many years, but the silver zinc that is used is also no good for welding either, grind it off.
There is silver zinc in 18-8 SS nuts/bolts? and I should grinf them?
Nope, they come plain. I guess I should have used the multi quote thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by NRM
It was a little surface rust. That's actually how it came from the factory. I cut the old ones off and put those in the same place. I think it was a late 70's model jeep.Quote:
Originally Posted by EchoSixMike
I found some SS (18-8) 1/4-20 flange nuts locally. It amazes me how much the prices differ, on place thay are $.50 ea and the other is $16 for 50 ($.32 ea). The SS 1/2-13 coupling nuts are $5.15 ea one place and $2.30 another. Iguess it pays to shop around. The square nuts in stock are $.70 ea, wow way to much so I went with the flanged nuts.
If I have access I like to use a countersunk screw to hold things, because it will self align to the center of the hole. Otherwise you sometimes have the bolt drag a side and it will be stiff. I couldn't find a 1/4-20 square nut handy, but here is a #10-32 as an example. Two sides are probably stronger than the screw, but if you want, you could do all four. Just let it cool a little in between. Because of thermal expansion and cooling, after this was welded and had cooled, I could spin the screw out with my fingers.
Attachment 6963 Attachment 6964 Attachment 6965
I'm planning on using a bolt to line up the holes and tack two sides of the nuts and see how that goes. I will post pics this weekend.
How do you like your Evolution Rage 2? I've been cutting a lot of 1/4" tubing and it's getting time to upgrade my HF chop saw.Quote:
Originally Posted by NRM
One issue with with square nuts is that they are generally softer than even a grade 5 and have a grade 2 rating. Even though welding a nut removes some of the strength, it doesn't completely destroy the quality, and hardened nuts are welded all the time in the industry for this type application...Unless you can verify the hardness of the square nut, I wouldn't use it for welding.
Makes me want a TIG setup .... Any chance of me being successful at tacking a nut using a stick welder and a thin, fast freeze electrode? Can't try at the moment. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
There's no reason one couldn't use stick to weld nuts to a surface. Well, I wouldn't want to try tacking #8's, but a 1/4" nut (7/16" wrench) can be tacked easily enough. On a nut that size I'd use 1/16" rod, or 5/64. Tack it opposite sides, work around, alternating sides. Lean towards the thicker of the two metals you are joining. No sarcasm intended really, but it's not rocket science (in tribute to an old friend, Ray Bradbury, who died at 91 yesterday).Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
ken
Ohhhh. I didn't even hear about that. After looking, I see that CNN has the news. Clueless yahoo and msn haven't been updated yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by KSmith
Wasn't sure if the higher amperage of stick would warp the nut too much or not. Thanks. I'll need to give it a try - have a few items where welding the nut in place would be useful. Probably better alternatives for me to use but hey, any chance to weld is good, right! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by KSmith
Sean I really like my rage 2. I cut a lot of SS aso I got the 90 tooth blade and it cuts well.
My local bolt store has them in both grade 2 and grade 5, but not grade 8. However, I can get flange nuts in grade 8 if needed. It all depends on the application and the size as to what kind of fasteners you select. For some jobs 1/4"-20 grade 2 is fine, for other 4"-4 grade 8 is not enough!Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
A flange nut or even a jet nut might be worth trying. S/F.....Ken M
Then you would want some L-9's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
Here are the clamps (10) I made that needed to have nuts welded onto the flat side of some coupling nuts. It was easier than I thought but I think I should have moved the puddle into the nut a little more. After using the supplied torch for this I REALLY want the CK 130.
Attachment 7088Attachment 7089Attachment 7090Attachment 7091
Just saw this. Cadmium is still around and in common use. Buy them all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo