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I work on a boat, and I don't get off until Tuesday. So I am pumped!
My wife told me the shipping box looked to be in good condition.
I can't wait to use it. I can stick weld pretty good. Well enough to get by. I have to tell you, I never TIG welded before in my life. I don't even know how to start it up or anything. So it's going to be a new world for me.
So any super noob tips would be great.
Attachment 6373
Your lucky you only have to wate a few days. My welder turnd up two weeks ago and i maniged to cut the top off my finger.BUGGER. I havent had a chance to have a go yet and wont for 5 weeks until i get the rod pulled out. Still mite get sume nice titanium filler rod out of the deal
Oh c'mon now what did you do?????Quote:
Originally Posted by Kats1719
At least with the welder you could have cauterized it and just moved on.
Looks like he found a saw blade. A pretty sharp one if I do say so myself. At least it was a clean cut.
Wouldn't that be a job more suited for a plasma cutter?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ski
I remember years ago cutting roll remesh for concrete. I was using a acetylene torch. Last cut that piece recoiled back took a chunk out of my finger and it was still hot from the torch and sealed it right up. I guess chalk that up to a learning experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by redbeard
It was an industrial metal cutting band saw just one second of inattention and the bugger had my three and a half hours of micro surgery and it is stuck back together BIG thanks to the plastic Sargon gee thay do a great job
Ouch that hurts just thinking about it... Hope it heals quick for you...Quote:
Originally Posted by Kats1719
Ouch ... reminds me of what I did back in the 70's when I worked at a chrome shop ... I had inspected a 1970 Chevy front bumper that just had been flashed in the chrome tank and saw there were some slight burns on the ends I thought "I can fix this ... wont take but a few seconds" walked over to a big buffer didn't put on any gloves ... took some green rouge applied it to the wheel started to buff out the bumper and before I knew it the buffer wheel grabbed the bumper yanked it out of my hands and stuck it in the wall. I looked down and the tip of my middle finger was hanging off the end. When they took me to the hospital to get sewed up I noticed blood on my shirt ... when the bumper got yanked out of my hands it also sliced my side open ... needless to say ... I'm more cautious now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky
OK, cut it out guys! Just had dessert .... feeling queasy and my keyboard isn't liquid proof ... :OQuote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ski
Attachment 6590 hey get your welder get it with the lead on right of picture the rod holder on left suck what a goofy set up just tossed it in the trash lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 225
Hey Rod, is the stick holder on the left the twist type? The pictures for the 140st and 160sth show both and I'm wondering if anyone on the forums can verify which is actually shipped with the unit. I hear the twist types are to be avoided.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
Attachment 6591
Attachment 6592
yes hate it lol I will go to the welding store tomorrow and get one like on the rite . The one i got with my 250ex is the one on the right but were it plugs into my mig is to big for the hole its a act of god to get the rod in it then a pain to get out to put a new stick in and is angled wrong for welding , But have to say the 205 i mig welds awesome with stick
I still havnt had a chance to use my new welder yet Board Board
The one on the right. I hate those euro style electrode clamps. I have a tweco stinger, but I actually prefer the red one that came with my 140st.Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
When I started digging on the net about welders, I have seen a lot of those holders... Had me puzzled... I thought that was the plasma cutter until I found out what they were...Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMurphy265
Hehe, me too. I thought it was a plasma cutter too when I first saw it. Got my hopes up and then I realized .... :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Ski
What does the 160sth come with? I think SeanMurphy265 stated his 140st came with the red clamp style.
like the red style since has notches so you can set the rod in the rite angle
I'm with you about the angle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
How in the world does the green one work? Can't figure it out from looking at the picture.
The handle twists, and you stick the rod in. Then tighten it up. They feel good but if you stick a rod, its a pain to pull off the metal. The old style, the rod just sticks to the metal, and you can rip it off the rod holder.Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
yes had that happen last night had to undo the ground clamp since rod was stuck to the metal
Those are weird looking things … I’m hoping when I get my 200DX I'll find that one of my old style electrode holders will fit ... there's alot to be said for "old school" ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
The old style rod holders cost $12-15. I am still using the one that came with the machine. My pedal and torch has been working well though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky
I replaced my snub nose, twist style with the old style clamp holder, and I think I paid a few dollars more at the LWS. I found that after a while the contacts on snub nose type would get sooty, and I would have problems striking an arc. You can't disassemble the snub nose to get at the main contact for cleaning, and it shouldn't be that much work anyways. With the clamp style, you can just squeeze the clamp and use a brush to clean it up real quick.Quote:
Originally Posted by 225
Cheers
Mike
I'm beginning to see why so many people don't like the twist style rod holder. There is definitely something to "Keep it simple". Anyone replace their stock ground clamp?Quote:
Originally Posted by posixPilot
I actually like the stock clamp ... it works on pipe (split conductor on one side), fits inside 1" sq tube, and you can operate it with only one hand. I'm going to get a few more arc strikes on it before I think about swapping it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
Cheers
Mike
I made up a Strong Hand "ground hog" for my welders with 25' of #2 cable.. Attachment 6604 I'm happy with it so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
OK, now *that* is a cool idea! Notice any improvement in your grounding?Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
If the stock ground looks like the one in the picture ... it's nice that that there is a stranded copper strand going from one side of the clamp to the other.
I haven't noticed a difference in grounding, but I never had a problem with the oem ground other than it being too short and wouldn't fit on larger square tube when I close the end for a screw in caster.Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
I'm not sure about the second part of your question but there's no strap going to the other side on the ground hog clamp. I stripped the #2 cable back far enough to double it over and pushed it into the ferrule.
Sorry. Got lazy. Tried to comment on two people's messages without quoting both. I was talking about the braided strap on the picture of the original ground clamp - here:Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
Attachment 6613
I don't think there's anything wrong at all with the stock ground clamp. It's as good as any I've seen on a stock welder, and better than some.
A "ground hog" or magnetic flat panel ground is somewhat specialized and specific to the application. If I did that sort of work, I'd just put one together with whatever length of cable needed since it's a QD dinse connector, not a hard connection inside the welder case, as on some welders. S/F....Ken M
I used the dinse off of one of the oem grounds since I have two, so I can use whichever one I need on the 256 or the I-Mig.Quote:
Originally Posted by EchoSixMike
160STH came with a clamp style, which I prefer.Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
The above style a number of people like. You have to bend rods to get certain angles (and can chip off some flux make some of the rod unusable) and if you are in a tight spot and have a good stick where you can not rock it, you can over heat the rod and burn the flux on it.
They are OK
I will try using the included rod holder a bit before I make any changes ... who knows I may discover I like it. I am really looking forward to the day I can finally order my 200DX I've heard a lot of good things about it. Sweet looking unit ... maybe by the time I order mine the new 2012 model with the up slope control will be available in this country.Quote:
Originally Posted by 225
At this point I'm starting to think maybe I should consider a 225LX over the 200DX since the LX will weld thcker metal and has a little more control (up slope and pre flow) Is there anyone out there who has both that can give their opinion on why I sould go with which ... other than cost, which still may be my final determining factor after all.
It will be from what I hear :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky
Go back and read my posts over he years that have LX in them. I am a big fan of the 225LX (and old 250LX) unit. Had I not worked for Everlast, I would probably still be using the old LX. Downslope is a lot more important when you hit the end of the weld..