Powerplasma50 on thinner materials

Ill be cutting mostly 3/16" and under, but would sometimes want a clean cuts on 1/4", and maybe 1/2"+ a wee bit severance.

How does the PP50 perform on minimum amp settings (20 is the min, yes?) on thinner materials down to maybe 20 gauge? How does one go about keeping the kerf thin for reasonably intricate pattern cutting on thinner gauge materials (without having to zip along at 250 ipm or some such)?

Im assuming that 20 amps is overkill for anything under about 1/8", but Im still learning about plasma cutting, so I very well could be way off here.

Im trying to determine if the pp50 will have enough low-end resolution for the bulk of my cutting (thinner materials), or if I should be looking at a pilot arc 40 amp unit that goes down to 15 amps (or lower? are there any?) like the thermaldynamics cutmaster 42 or the Hypertherm 30.

Granted those units are a bit more costly, but not THAT much more.

How does the pp50 stack up on the low-end? Can anyone shed any light on this?


And for that matter, how much of a performance difference is there betweent he SuperCut 50p and the PP50 for the home shop user (very rarely utlizing the machine's max output)?

Thanks guys.

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Originally Posted by sprocket

Ill be cutting mostly 3/16" and under, but would sometimes want a clean cuts on 1/4", and maybe 1/2"+ a wee bit severance.

How does the PP50 perform on minimum amp settings (20 is the min, yes?) on thinner materials down to maybe 20 gauge? How does one go about keeping the kerf thin for reasonably intricate pattern cutting on thinner gauge materials (without having to zip along at 250 ipm or some such)?

Im assuming that 20 amps is overkill for anything under about 1/8", but Im still learning about plasma cutting, so I very well could be way off here.

Im trying to determine if the pp50 will have enough low-end resolution for the bulk of my cutting (thinner materials), or if I should be looking at a pilot arc 40 amp unit that goes down to 15 amps (or lower? are there any?) like the thermaldynamics cutmaster 42 or the Hypertherm 30.

Granted those units are a bit more costly, but not THAT much more.

How does the pp50 stack up on the low-end? Can anyone shed any light on this?


And for that matter, how much of a performance difference is there betweent he SuperCut 50p and the PP50 for the home shop user (very rarely utlizing the machine's max output)?

Thanks guys.

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I had the Cut50D and it worked very well on thinnner metals and for thick severance cuts.

When I used smaller 0.6mm tips from Harbor Freight on my S45 torch, my cutter worked better on the thinner stuff.

Either will work fine for what you're trying to do.

I ocasionally use the PowerPlasma 25 ( 110v clean cut 6mm ) and of course the Sk25 S ergocut torch is a very low output PSI as it runs between 25 to 30 psi and only uses 30lpm This can run down to around 12 amps but you do not have the ability to cut heavier metals so there is a trade off in getting a lower amp model . I have never really seen that much of a issue using the PowerPlasma 50 on lighter materials and the dross is not that big of a concern as it is minimal on thiner stuff
Cheers

Thanks for the responses, guys...PowerPlasma 25???

Where can I find the specs on this unit and why is there no info on the site about it? (apologies if I missed it)

Im very curious to know more about this unit!

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Originally Posted by sprocket

Thanks for the responses, guys...PowerPlasma 25???

Where can I find the specs on this unit and why is there no info on the site about it? (apologies if I missed it)

Im very curious to know more about this unit!

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Canadian unit. It may be sold here as well, but you will have to ask.

Titan Winch or Everlast support...where can I find more info and pricing on the pp25 unit and its availability in the states? I did not see anything on Everlast Canada site?

I cut thin stuff all the time with my 50 , leaves nice cuts . just have at 60 psi and set on low amps if buying get the pp since IGBT , the mosfet is ok but the IGBT ones cut like a sharp knife really clean cuts . its worth the few extra bucks trust me. Another thing to think to if ever decide to get a plasma table its nice to have the plasma cutter with the cnc stuff on it .

My PP60 works just fine for thin stuff. The slag is minimal and easily knocked off. As noted, getting the smallest available tip for your torch really helps. As far as freehand intricate work, your skills will be the prmary factor in the result, dawdling is not an option.

Red and Rod...thanks...thats the kind of stuff I was looking for.

But still want to know more about the pp25!

I believe Duncan will have to update you on the PP25. You can PM Oleg here as well.

All the post in this thread are on the money. I would look at the PP50, I personally have a PP60 for main cutting, just bought a PP50 for future CNC table.

If I had to pick one, probably be a pp50 and go with a smaller nozzle like Ken mentioned. But they will all get the job done with some practice.

Thanks for the help. I went with the PP50 and it should be here any day now!

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Originally Posted by sprocket

Thanks for the help. I went with the PP50 and it should be here any day now!

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Let us know how you like it because that's the one I'm looking at!!

hey Mike , some times my plasma cutter when cutting and done cutting air keeps blowing out of torch and torch stop working, until i turn machine off then back on then it works fine

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Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop

hey Mike , some times my plasma cutter when cutting and done cutting air keeps blowing out of torch and torch stop working, until i turn machine off then back on then it works fine

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Could be the air solenoid is sticking. If you want to call in for Ray or I we can walk you though checking it and a couple other things. Make sure the air is 65PSI too. Also, air is not on test/constant (does not sound like it as you said sometimes).

I got my pp50 hooked up and was slicing through some stuff like butter yesterday...wicked cool machine. :D I cut a few different thicknesses of steel sheet steel up to 1/8", some 1/8" aluminum, then took a couple of swipes on 3/8" HRS bar...man oh man. I ran mostly on the minimum 20 amps when making the sheet metal cuts and pretty much had to zip along fast to avoid the kerf opening up wide. Some of you mentioned smaller tips...I downloaded and printed the S45 cut sheet. Which tips come standard with the units - the #8s? The only other available size is the #6 which are rated for the lower amperage and gas flow, correct? Maybe Ill pick some up from HF next time Im there to try them out. In the meantime, what is the general rule on air pressure...would increasing the pressure give a tighter kerf and allow for slower cutting speeds, or should I try decreasing it a bit? I set the pressure to 65 psi for everything yesterday, as it seems Ive read that value as a good all-around setting on these forums.

i run mine at 65 all the time too when i cut 3/16 or thicker i go up to 70 psi

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Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop

i run mine at 65 all the time too when i cut 3/16 or thicker i go up to 70 psi

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Rod, that's in the range for sure and good info to keep it simple.

The #6 will give a thinner cut. The pressure can still be too high or low and the amps you will want lower, maybe 30-35 amps max.

I had a guy tell me years ago, but I never tried it, on plasma cutting clean and tight kerf. He told me spray anti-spatter on the cut lines. I never did check it out. Some day when I think to grab anti-spatter while I am plasma cutting (probably why I never tried it), I will try it.

If some this please let us know. The best tip is always dry air.

On the PSI, another thing I have heard from body shop guys swear 35 psi for sheet metal. Never tried that either. But over the years stuff you here.

Ill try decreasing the air pressure and see how that behaves...at low amps (20), this wont be too rough on the consumables, will it?

i just have at 65 when cutting with low amps to me seams to have a cleaner cut

Yeah Ill have to play around with it some more, Rod. Im curious to try the lower pressure based on the info Mike had heard, too, regarding sheet metal cutting. On anything 1/8" and under, it seemed like this baby was just COOKIN through it - it's going to take some serious practice to do free-hand designs of reasonably fine resolution on thin stuff given the high lineal speed in ipm required to prevent 'gapping' the cut.

The lower PSI is what I have heard over the years (by a couple body shop guys and thousands of calls; just sharing). Like the anti-spatter spray was one person.

We still recommend 65PSI for the PP50, bump to 70 or 75 as you get thicker and it will work fine. Again it depends on the speed you move and I'll repeat. With the right compressor (CFM and PSI), dry air is the big secret for plasma I have found.

anti-spatter spray is great stuff sure works great . good for car window tracks also

Just to add - I tried some lower psi settings last night and it really didnt seem to affect anything when doing the thinner stuff. I only tried a couple of test cuts, though, so maybe a little more experimenting is required. I definitely will want to pick up some of the smaller tips as you all have mentioned, and Im trying (hint hint) to have Oleg and/or Duncun fill us in on the 25 amp plasma unit that was mentioned on another thread (Im not so sure I am not imagining it now, though lol). See 25 amp plasma cutter? thread. Perhaps this little machine is best suited (among the Everlast product line) for intricate work on the lighter gauges?

just get the tips to do lighter stuff . PDO-116-08 AND PRO-110 there for 20 to 30 amp use http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Tips-0...item27bcb55c72 or a S25K torch it for thin stuff