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Got the 256. TIG works great...very happy with it. This is my first modern TIG...replaced an old Miller DIALARC HF. I did notice that I felt a small shock in my arm where it touched the work piece on occasional start ups...Is this normal???
Also it appears that I received a 40/50 amp plasma torch instead of the 60 amp...whats the deal with that....noticed that the cup is melting a bit... And possible arc start problem? It wont arc unless the torch is 1/4" or less from the material.
Does your plasma torch say WSD 60 on the side ?Quote:
Originally Posted by tnc110
Where you sweaty? If you touch the workpiece and there is a path to ground through you, you will get a tingle. Happened to me yesterday restoring a 1978 Corvette seat frame.Quote:
Originally Posted by tnc110
What is the model number of the torch? It will either be a sticker or on the neck of the torch.Quote:
Also it appears that I received a 40/50 amp plasma torch instead of the 60 amp...whats the deal with that....noticed that the cup is melting a bit... And possible arc start problem? It wont arc unless the torch is 1/4" or less from the material.
I wasnt sweaty...was wearing a sweatshirt and got the tingle through my sleaves where my arm was touching the work piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
Not sure on the torch model, will check later today. Would the wrong torch prevent it from arcing unless it is near the work piece?
You need to be about 1/4" away and the pilot should cause the arc transfer. Do you get the pilot arc? What makes you think it is not a 60 amp torch.
I get zap sometimes, somehow you gave it a path to follow. Like I said, did it myself yesterday. Forearm on seat frame.
I should be able to pull the trigger in the air and get a pilot arc correct?...I cant do that...just air... I was thinking it was a 40/50 because when I looked at the the consumable page my torch looks like the 40/50 rather than the 60
Ok...just looked at the plasma torch page...my torch looks more like the 50a torch. I see the 50a are contact start torches...and the 60a are pilot arc. Looks like I got the wrong torch...grrrrrrr...
You should get a flame in the air.Quote:
Originally Posted by tnc110
There are numbers on the side of the torch... tell us what they are, and/or post a picture please.Quote:
Originally Posted by tnc110
[QUOTE=zoama585;21948]There are numbers on the side of the torch... tell us what they are, and/or post a picture please.[/QUOTE
Why would they put plastic on Attachment 4788Attachment 4789the cup?
I don't know about that torch. I have the standard wsd60 torch for the 256 and a p80 torch for the PowerPlasma 60.Quote:
Originally Posted by tnc110Why would they put plastic on the cup?Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
One of the Everlast staff will have to help you with that.
[QUOTE=tnc110;21953]That thing looks like it's missing it's nozzle or it got melted and pushed back in.. not lookin good. Does it say A81 on the side? ..you got an upgraded torch and managed to cook it, it appears to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
Agreed that the torch looks damaged .... I have the A81 too, and have not had this problem. You shouldn't have to drag the tip to start the arc. If the arc doesn't start when you fire it in the air, the either the HF isn't working, you don't have the pilot arc ground connected at the panel, or possibly you have the preflow turned up high. I've read that dragging this torch can damage it, so that may be what happened?
Edit: Here's how my A81 looks:
Attachment 4795
Cheers
Mike
Looking at the damage to the torch i would have to say a good possibility is the Air pressure is not adequate . The A81 needs to have 72 psi . I am not saying this is the cause just that it is a sympton to what you are showing in the picture.
I am sure when you call tech suport they will discuss this with you.
Cheers
That can also be a result of a couple of other things...This is an 80 amp torch, and is a HF start.
1) missing or damaged swirl ring.
2) Drag cutting at high amps
3) Moisture in the line. Do you have an additional air dryer in the line besides the water trap supplied with the unit?
http://s999.photobucket.com/albums/a...=VIDEO0054.mp4
Air pressure is correct. I went to the shop tonight and decided to fool with it some more...out of the blue it started to work intermittenty. As you can see in the video, sometimes it fires, and sometimes it doesnt. The more i use it the better it gets. What is the points gap suppose to be set at...I can see through the front of the machine and the gap looks very big...1/16" maybe...i know my old miller was set at .008...
The cup is getting fried because of the random arc characteristics. I hope everlast will send me a new one when I get the random arc problem fixed.
The arc is firing. It is doing something I haven't seen before. But this is not supposed to be operated like this, if it has been. The pilot arc is NOT meant to press and hold indefinitely. It is only for a fraction of a second to start the arc.
The gap is .035" on that unit. The face on the nozzle looks like you have been doing piercing, in turn melting the cup. IF the arc isn't eased into the metal at an angle, the blowback that is created will splash back on the face and melt the high temp composite. The damage you have appears to be a classic sign of this. The pilot arc will jump erratically if the nozzle is cracked or worn. Honestly, at this point it's hard to tell if it's the chicken or the egg that came first.
And you do have it on DC- right, and not switched to AC? What about the dryer?
When that torch flashes it looks like it's arcing onto itself. I'd hold up on that, before it's totaled. Might just get away with some new parts.
I just got this unit...it only has a few cuts on it, just trying it out...no piercing. I wish I could make a video of it cutting and you could see how erratic the arc is...then you would understand why the cup is fried. I understand that the pilot arc is just to start the cut, but if it doesnt fire when the trigger is pulled, then its not working. I am going to put my money on the gap. I do have a dryer, its not hooked up now, but it shouldnt matter...a dryer is just going to give longer tip life. I never used a dryer on my old miller plasma cutter and never had a problem. I have noticed on two different occasions that the amperage readout it giong crazy...spitting out random values with them machine sitting idle.
Does Everlast sell parts for the 81?
On a totally different note...I am really confused as to what Everlast is doing...I read a lot of stories where customers are having problems with their units, usually problems that are easy fixes. I see that each unit is tested at the factory...what is tested? Clearly the QC department is lacking. I know time is money, but why doesnt Everlast test each unit out here in the states before they are shipped out...this would save everyone a lot of grief, save Everlast money in the long run AND save a lot of negative publicity that Everlast is receiving.
I sold my old tried and true Miller Dialarc HF tig machine and my miller 375 plasma cutter to purchase this new Everlast unit because of all the modern technology on the tig side and the extra cutting ability on the plasma side...A lot of people told me I was crazy for doing this...I hope i didnt make a big mistake.
Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
Turn the pulse switch off . If you have it on it will jump between the two values as you have described . As for the Testing at the Factory the steps are as follows.
The fact that the torch will cut and you say it seems to get better the longer you use it would indicate that the welder itself is performing as it should and the problem is in the torch head .
Have you tried the TIG function and if so can you let us know the results. and have you contacted Tech support as Ray is very good with walking people through the steps for troubleshooting .
The Testing procedure is as follows
1 Load bank testing total 30 min Starting at low load ( 25% then up)
2 all function tests done pulse / frequency balance / stick / tig AC/DC plasma
3 Cover placed on unit
4 retest all functions as per step two
5 operate plasma torch and foot pedal if applicable
The units are then packaged and moved to a warehouse building to be loaded on a container . They are then transported to Shanghai
loaded onboard and end up in San Francisco
In my case they end up in either Vancouver or Prince Rupert are then put on Rail to Toronto then trucked to me.
The units are then unpacked and a test of the Tig in AC and DC / foot pedal and individual plasma torch is tested. The Tig torch is not tested .
I've never seen that as well. But the torch is now damaged, so it could do anything. Did you use the air gauge/tube to set the air pressure?
I would call tech support at this point since the torch has damaged.
Air pressure was set at 60 psi.
The tig function works great, very happy with the way it performs. I fooled with several setting and everything seems to work as it should, only problem is with plasma cutting.
If my plasma torch was tested, then they put in a new tip, it was unused.
I tried to call tech support a couple days ago, left my name and number, but no one ever called back. Will try again tomorrow. Thanks for all the replies fellas.
BTW, I'm not bashing Everlast, I think it is great that they are making some competitively priced products, its the small things that ruin a company's name. Hopefully the QC will pick up a little and then they will be a force to recon with.
That torch is made by Trafimet, an Italian based company, one of the worlds largest torch manufacturers.Quote:
Originally Posted by tnc110
Does Everlast sell parts for this torch?
If not where can they be found?
If it was set at 60PSI, that means you did not use the gauge (tube with the ball in it) to set the air pressure?? 60 sounds low for the A81. There should have been a plastic tube air gauge with the torch to set the pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by tnc110
You can contact our sales group for parts sales@everlastwelders.com. I get mine through Welder Services, local for me. You can not order them direct from Trafimet. Also look on ebay, there is a guy that sells the consumables as well (has river in his username). I have bought from him when we did not have parts in stocks many months ago.
When did we start using flow gauges on plasma? That's new to me.
The trafimet A81 comes with a flow gauge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake98
The correct psi for the A81 torch is 72 psi and you can use the flow tube to make sure you have enough CFM.
consumable parts are available from us .
Cheers
Duncan
Mine did not.Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
Ok...so I took the cover off the machine today...the points gap was huge...probably .055-.060...set it to .035...The adjustment on this thing is a total joke. There are no setscrews or anything to keep the points set where they should be...very flimsy! I would recommend that everyone check theirs...I wouldn't be surprised if jolts from shipping would knock these points out of whack.
Put it back together, and am now getting the pilot arc to fire every time. Made some cuts, notice that there is an occasional arc between the cup and the work piece. When this stray arc is present the cutting arc goes away...
If I can ever get anyone to call me back I will request a new torch...left a message at sales and tech support...no returned calls thus far.
I think this is the guy on ebay Mike is talking about http://stores.ebay.com/plasma-cutter-consumables
At most you'll only need a cup unless it has melted the torch head.
Hey, he has an 'Inventor Welder' on page 13, could be just the thing for me, I need to reinvent myself!Quote:
Originally Posted by 67cudafb
Then make sure you use 72PSI. All of our units will handle 60-75 pretty much and lower. The A81 likes to be over 65, unlike all our other torches.Quote:
Originally Posted by tnc110
As Duncan posted it works out to 72PSI for the A81. So just use that pressure. The flow gauge to me was, OK use it one time and it sets on the shelf now.
[QUOTE=Jake98;21967]No. That's the way the a81 looks... stubby tip(drag tip that really shouldn't be dragged), squared off retaining cap with a plastic rim protruding past the brass.Quote:
Originally Posted by tnc110
I too have beef with this torch, and am very displeased with the design. I did _not_ have problems with my HF start, just to be clear. My problem is in the use of the torch, that damned snub nosed tip and square retaining cap is not much use for anything other than flat stock. the standoffs are a joke and as mentioned the roller guide is the better option.
My torch now looks much like the OP's. I've been using this torch for a couple months and curse it almost every time I pick it up. Try cutting the inside corner of some large angle iron or, like I'm doing today, trying to cut a 55deg mitre in some S8 I-beam. In a confined space like that the standoff is a hindrance but even without its clumsy at best. the problem is that inevitably the edge of that retaining cap is difficult to see around and gets in the way, comes into contact with the wall/shoulder of the work, and melts. Putting a chamfer on anything also leads to more melting. And even using an appropriately thick piece of bar stock as a straight edge to maintain the required height leads to the plastic deforming(as the straight edge heats up) as you run the torch along the bar on that plastic shoulder.
so all of this is to say: "Why plastic?" indeed. Other torches have conical tips and conical brass or even ceramic retaining caps. I'm not sure how the a81 is supposed to be superior, it cuts just fine(in the flat), but damn is it awkward....and melty.
would be nice if parts like these were available for the a81:Attachment 5918Attachment 5919Attachment 5920
In the absence of comparison, there can be a lot to complain about sometimes.Think the edge of the A 81 is difficult to see around? Try another brand then add STIFF cable to the mix. Then, the A 81 won't seem so bad. It's a choice of either melty or sticky or breaky or burny...All torches of all brands will do something you don't like when blow back is an issue. The plastic is actually a high temp bakelite substance.
Guess I got spoiled on the first plasma cutter I was introduced to. It was a miller with a conical tip and cap. I've looked around online for other consumables, but the only other type I found for the a81 were long tip(same lobed drag tip, but about double the length) and long electrode. do you know of any others in the conical style? even just a pointed tip would be nice?
Trafimet USA can provide you with a local or online distributor (or they should be able to at least) of their product.
This should help. There is a longer nozzle along with electrode, and air tube available. We do not carry it though and send it back to Trafimet for parts.
http://trafimetusa.com/Products/Plas...chures/a81.pdf
If you want they can provide you with other type torches with the Central Euro Connector. But you need to talk with them.
Here's their complete catalog http://www.trafimetusa.com/Images/Fl..._Final_web.pdf
Thanks! that seems to be what I was looking for. In combination with the longer tip/electrode, CV0201 looks like a conical guard that fits right over the plastic retaining cap.
much obliged.
Let us know how it (CV0201) works out for you. I have had a few calls where the cap got burnt a little. I thought it was blowback from the stand-off wire. But please let us know if you order one and works better for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by mkzero