Tig exhaust/custom stuff

Might as well contribute:

Catch can:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...n/IMG_5925.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...n/IMG_6560.jpg

Recirc tube:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...k/IMG_6326.jpg

Complete IC pipe kit:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...k/IMG_6376.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...k/IMG_6374.jpg


Down pipe:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...D/IMG_6603.jpg

Close up:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...D/IMG_6591.jpg

350z Turbo kit:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...D/IMG_4519.jpg

67mm:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...D/IMG_5777.jpg

Beautiful work, thats exactly what im starting up to do right now.

for that close up of the stainless. Are you using pulse or anything? And what thickness of material is it and what sort of settings do you normally use for that kind of job, looks amazing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scootarida1

for that close up of the stainless. Are you using pulse or anything? And what thickness of material is it and what sort of settings do you normally use for that kind of job, looks amazing.

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Pic #1:

.065 wall cap welded on to 2.5" diameter .065 tubing. The key there is to have the cap set back from the tip of the tubing. If it was flush on the outside, it would not look as good. #12 cup, 3/16" 2% tungsten, no pulse, just foot pedal and no filler rod. Amperage is at about 40A, and moving rather quick.

Pic #2:

Same thing as on the cap. The -6an fitting is mild steel, .045 filler rod, 55A foot pedal, no pulse.

Pic#7:

This was a but weld. .065" 3" diameter 304SS tubing. Sames torch setup as before, 60-65A, 1/16" filler rod, also foot pedal only and moving at a decent pace.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boosted P

Pic #1:

.065 wall cap welded on to 2.5" diameter .065 tubing. The key there is to have the cap set back from the tip of the tubing. If it was flush on the outside, it would not look as good. #12 cup, 3/16" 2% tungsten, no pulse, just foot pedal and no filler rod. Amperage is at about 40A, and moving rather quick.

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Is it really 3/16? That is huge. Biggest I have is 3/32. We've had bigger at work, but that is for very high current uses.

Look pretty nice. Are you concerned at all that the exhaust will heat the trans too much sitting like that?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sportbike

Is it really 3/16? That is huge. Biggest I have is 3/32. We've had bigger at work, but that is for very high current uses.

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Ooops, yes I ment 3/32". At times I use the 1/16" tungsen as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jason

Look pretty nice. Are you concerned at all that the exhaust will heat the trans too much sitting like that?

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Not at all. There is a lot of air moving under there when the car is driven. In the picture it looks like it is very close, but in fact there is about 3/4" gap between the pipe and the transmission case. I have built 17 complete kits and have many very happy customers out there. Some are making over 600whp on 93 octane.

I should mention that I am not a welder, and learned how to do this in my spare time. I am an electronics engineer, so nothing even close to welding.

Got these done tonight:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...6260933412.jpg

Now I just have to set up the back purge and weld it all up. In case you guys don't know what it is....they are RX7 turbo manifolds.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boosted P

Not at all. There is a lot of air moving under there when the car is driven. In the picture it looks like it is very close, but in fact there is about 3/4" gap between the pipe and the transmission case. I have built 17 complete kits and have many very happy customers out there. Some are making over 600whp on 93 octane.

I should mention that I am not a welder, and learned how to do this in my spare time. I am an electronics engineer, so nothing even close to welding.

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In the pics I didn't see the gap so I guess it may not be as bad as I thought. The pipe still gets pretty hot and stays hot after the car is no longer in motion.

Like you, I learned welding in my spare time and actually learned how to TIG by watching youtube videos and then trying it out for myself. My education and carrer happen to be in the computer world of networking and information technology, and software engineering.

Also those manifolds look nice :)

600 whp on pump is pretty nice.

We can get big power out of the bikes, but nothing like that on pump.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sportbike

600 whp on pump is pretty nice.

We can get big power out of the bikes, but nothing like that on pump.

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Displacement is much different also. The key to this is large T4 housings. I am the only person that makes a single turbo kit for a 350z with a true T4 flange, and use only T4 turbos. For the most part Precision 6266's and 6766's. I am currently working on a custom kit which will use a 76mm Precision turbo. This person will make 700whp on pump, and with C16 probably close to 900whp.

Should be able to run low 9's, as it has been done with this size of a turbo.

A few more of the first manifold completed. Still need to do the wastegate plumbing, but that comes on later:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...6311836277.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...6311817675.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...6311773523.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...6311795658.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...6311751715.jpg

what kind of tubing are you using?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jerky

Beautiful work, thats exactly what im starting up to do right now.

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that is some great work. thank you for sharing. I was hoping to do the same thing. I am glad to hear that self taught or YouTube taught is a possibility. I already mig but I want to be able to bang out some of the clean pretty wilds that seem to only be available with a TIG welder...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jerky

what kind of tubing are you using?

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The RX7 turbo manifolds are 304SS, .065 wall. For the most part this is what I use for exhaust systems, and it is the industry standard.

Thanks for the compliments. It has taken a bit of time to get where I am at as far as weld qulity. In the end, practice practice practice. The key to all the colors are tig lenses. On the left tig lense/cup on the right regular setup:

http://image.popularhotrodding.com/f...+gas-lense.jpg

The better your gas shild is the nicer the weld/colors.

Ya i figured 304 but sometimes for higher heat applications like manifolds like that 321 can be used

This is some great quality work. It may have been mentioned already, but what welder are you using?

Those flanges for RX7 turbo exhaust manifold application have an interesting color, shininess, and texture. I also notice that they welded cleanly, without any smut or "smoke". Do you know if they are they cast stainless steel? Do you think they are Nickel plated? Any theories on how they are manufactured?

I find it interesting that they look kind of rough in texture, as if they were sand cast, and yet at the same time also have kind of a "CNC machined look". I wonder if a CNC machined original part was pressed against mold sand material in preparation for the casting.

Your welds look great by the way.

Is your #12 cup a "large diameter" gas lens lens cup like this one and do you use it on all those stainless welds?

Also, what argon flow rate do you like to run through it? And finally, curious if you are using either solar flux or backpurging, and if so, how is that working. Thanks for sharing!

Are you bending your own tubing? I would be interested to see what you are using to both bend and cut the tubing - you need to be pretty precise on the joints to get the welds to look right.

Any info is appreciated!

Cheers,

Mike

Amazing work!

I would say those flanges are cast but they are really clean...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jakeru

Those flanges for RX7 turbo exhaust manifold application have an interesting color, shininess, and texture. I also notice that they welded cleanly, without any smut or "smoke". Do you know if they are they cast stainless steel? Do you think they are Nickel plated? Any theories on how they are manufactured?

I find it interesting that they look kind of rough in texture, as if they were sand cast, and yet at the same time also have kind of a "CNC machined look". I wonder if a CNC machined original part was pressed against mold sand material in preparation for the casting.

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From what I can tell these are cast stainess, and then machined to spec. The material is non magnetic, so it is 304 grade and they welded very nice.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jakeru

Your welds look great by the way.

Is your #12 cup a "large diameter" gas lens lens cup like this one and do you use it on all those stainless welds?

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Thanks, and yes the lense is a large #12, and yes I use it on all stainless welds with no trailing shield. Flow is at about 15cfh

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jakeru

Also, what argon flow rate do you like to run through it? And finally, curious if you are using either solar flux or backpurging, and if so, how is that working. Thanks for sharing!

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I always back purge, and it works great. The welds on the inside look as good as the outside.