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I've tried locally and the price is sky high..
I've checked Metalsdepot.com and the price is better but expensive still.
I'm needing 4' of 1.5" Stainless round bar.
I priced Steel at $33, then I priced the Stainless and it was $135!!
Why is so much more expensive?
Here's a site: looks like you can get a 10" - 12" drop in 316 stainless for $38
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...id=7&top_cat=1
Other choices available at that site, too, if you need something other than 316.
What are you working on?
Thanks for the link!
What is the difference in these? I've never worked with Stainless
Round bar t-303
round bar t-304l
round bar t-316l
round bar t-321
round bar t-347
round bar t-410
round bar t-416
The 303 and 304 is around $80 for three feet which is all I reall need.
I will be running this bar through some brass bushings so it doesn't need to be anything great, just stainless.
I am buying all the materials I need to build the link below...
http://simage1.sportsmansguide.com/a.../134916_ts.jpg
You want 304 SS.
410 and 416 are heat treatable.
303 is easer to machine,
The numbers there identify the specific alloy of stainless. Onlinemetals.com has an outline of different types of stainless, lots of good info here. As Brian's note says, 304 is most common.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/stainlessguide.cfm
Appreciate all the help!
I just read the difference between them all and I ordered the 304.
Again, Thanks for the link to Onlinemetals.com, I saved some money on there!!
and the L just means low carbon
Does Carbon make the Stainless harder?Quote:
Originally Posted by jerky
Why would you want low carbon over normal Stainless? Just curious
Not sure about harder, but 316 is slightly stronger than 316L.
The "L" or low carbon helps to lessen cracking when welding.
347, 321, 316L are common in the aerospace world along with Inconel and Hastelloy.
Unless your building a space shuttle or a submarine stick with 304.
Because it has less carbon, it will help preventing carbide precipitation.
is that rust?Quote:
Originally Posted by jerky
So when I weld the 304 Stainless Bar to a piece of 3/16" mild Steel plate with a 309L filler rod.... What's the best way to do it?
I have welded Stainless in night class but only for 30 mins. or so
Do I weld a little and stop to let it cool or weld fast and get it all done quickly!?!?
Here's a quick write-up on carbide precipitation from the ESAB site:Quote:
Originally Posted by CGCINC
http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/AWTC/Lesson5_10.htm
Note: "austenitic" refers to the 300 series of stainless steels.
5.4.1 Carbide Precipitation - Many of the austenitic stainless steels are subject to the phenomenon of carbide precipitation. At elevated temperatures in the range of 800-1600°F, the carbon content in excess of 0.02% migrates to the grain boundaries of the austenitic structure where it reacts with chromium to form chromium carbide. If the chromium is tied up with the carbon, it is not available for corrosion resistance. Thus, when the steel with carbide precipitation is exposed to a corrosive environment, intergranular corrosion results, allowing the grain boundaries to be eaten away. Figure 8 shows how intergranular corrosion may take place in a tank holding a corrosive liquid. Notice that the corrosion takes place only in the heat affected zone on the inside where the corrosive media is located, and there is no evidence of failure on the outside.
5.4.1.1 Carbide precipitation has no other effect on the steel, however, other than loss of corrosion resistance in the heat affected zone. During welding, the heat-affected zones along the sides of the weld in austenitic stainless steel are exposed to the temperatures that cause carbide precipitation.
There's a section here also about welding stainless to carbon steel, in section 5.2:Quote:
Originally Posted by CGCINC
http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/AWTC/Lesson5_7.htm
...but I'm officially out of my depth now, so I will watch and learn as the experts respond.
Thanks dave, thats what i was gonna say when i got home, ill see if my books say anything else on the matter
Wow, who knew there was so much to welding a few pieces of metal together.. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by DaveO
Thanks for all the info guys... Time to read and learn before I screw this up!
This is off of one of the links above...
Carbide precipitation has no other effect on the steel, however, other than loss of corrosion resistance in the heat affected zone.
So I'm taking that as it's ok to weld it like I would normally, But it could rust at the heat affected zone. This equipment will be in my basement and also I can paint up a half inch onto the Stainless to protect it.
As long as Carbide precipitation will not effect the strength of the weld, I'm ok ?
Are you welding stainless to non-stainless
Yes, Stainless to some 1/4" plate I have lying aroundQuote:
Originally Posted by brianscott
The joint won't rust/corrode any more
than your 1/4 plate. Use 309 wire.
Yeah, not worried about rust. I just want to get a good weld because this 1.5" Stainless bar will be supporting the loading arm for weights on the machine so I don't want the weld to fail!! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by brianscott
Recieved my Onlinemetals order yesterday and figured out that 1 1/2" Stainless round bar is Heavy!! I might need to use 1 1/2" Stainless tube for my application.
Too heavy!?!? Remember you're doing this so you can be a weightlifter!!
Kidding, of course. But here's one for the group: other posts have talked about the need to purge the inside of an SS tube weld. At what point does that become necessary? Is it only on very thin material where the opposite side of the weld glows red, or might CGCInc encounter that need even on heavier material?
Good question! If I do use tubing it will be 1/4" wallQuote:
Originally Posted by DaveO
I looked up the weight of round bar... around 6lbs. per foot.
I will be using a 20" piece for the "curl" bar, a 2" x 6" piece of pipe with brass bushings in it that will slip over the 1 1/2" bar and some 1" tubing that will be welded to the 2" pipe for hand grips..... By the time it's all together, I'll be starting out lifting 50lbs.!!! :) Actually it will be around 14lbs.
you dont have to back purge, but it is always recommended.. and thats only when your doing a butt weld to join the pipe. if your say putting a plate on the end and you do a fillet around the pipe, then you dont need any purging.
Although I don't have much experience welding stainless to mild steel, I have read many times that it's preferred to "butter" the mild steel with the 309 before making the actual weld. I believe this is to lower the amount of dilution of the filler metal with the mild steel.
Maybe someone with more experience in this area can chime.
I have lots of 1.5 304 drops in .065 ( 16ga ) wall and lighter if you need a chunkQuote:
Originally Posted by CGCINC
Quote:
Originally Posted by todmorg
Well, I'm thinking I need 11ga. or thicker wall because this 18"-20" piece will be what I pull on to lift the weight and with it being that long, I don't want it to flex or bend. ( Any help is appreciated because I just don't know) I would say the most I will be lifting is 150lbs.
Here is a diag. of what I'm doing. The 2" square tubing will be drilled all the way through so I can insert the 1.5" Stainless and weld on both sides of the square tubing.
The center section(not gray) is a piece of 2" x 4" Rectangle tubing with a piece of 2" pipe on top. Another piece of the 1.5" Stainless will be running through the pipe and connecting both pieces of 2" Square tubing.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...SC/Drawing.jpg