What's the minimum storage temperature for everlast welders ?
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What's the minimum storage temperature for everlast welders ?
Yeah thats something good to know cause mine sites out in the cold. I would think there wouldnt be one cause from what i know is cold dont hurt electronics. Heat is the only worry.
Electrolytic capacitors may pose a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobwills
Minimum temperature should be 20° F. Extreme temperatures should be avoided. We prefer for the units be stored above freezing. Capacitors can freeze.
ok so i should start bringing it in during winter
Wow that high of a "low"....probably should advertise that a little better. I will need to bring mine into the basement. It's already around that here now.Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
I went back over some old factory information. 14 degrees F or -10C is absolutely the lowest recommended operating temperature. I say 20 for the safe side of things. I don't think my hands would work in that cold very long anyway. Storage can go a little lower ( and varies on the model) into the single digits but do you want to push it? The whole idea is to take care of your welder as an investment. Just as you wouldn't leave it out in the rain, why leave it to suffer temperature extremes?
What about high temperature storage. The hottest day I remember in Arizona was 122°F (remember that ambient temperature is measured in the shade). The airport was shut down because airplanes only had charts that went to 120°F.
Ahh just another fall day in Arizona. I thought in got hot in north Florida yikes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Duty cycle is rated at 104 degrees. Operation above that seriously decreases duty cycle. This is the standard rating temp in the industry. No storage above 120 is recommended.
Here is a link regaring the 122°F day and the airplanes.Quote:
Originally Posted by 67cudafb
http://phoenix.about.com/od/phoenixf...celflights.htm
Most electrical calculations and design of Nuclear plants use 104°F for equipment qualification. I would assume this must stem from the Arrhenius equation (I typically refer to this as the erroneous equation).Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
Electrolytic capacitors can dry out as well as freeze.
I remember that day, driving through Papago park with no A/C and the windows down. The only time I miss living there is January.
This entire thread troubles me a lot. My shop is neither heated or cooled and my wife "made a less than happy face" when I told her my PowerUltra 205P was moving into the house for the winter and possibly for most of the summer as well. My future problem will be what to do (with future LARGER Everlast equipment that is purchased, 250EXT for starters ) in seasons that the environment in my shop may fall outside of the equipment storage specifications. I absolutely KNOW "Larger Equipment" will not be approved for House occupation by "She Who Must Be Obeyed".
Conditioning (Insulation, Heating and cooling) the shop (30X30X16) is out of the question because I would have no money left for previously stated equipment purchases for a number of YEARS!
Possibly a Small enclosed conditioned equipment storage area within the shop but even that will delay additional equipment purchases for some period of time.
What to do?
Thurmond
A small light bulb in an encloser can do wonders, I have worked in minus 30 and minus 40 temps when the only thing keeping the outhouse in camp from being intolerable was a light bulb; thank goodness those days are behind me but the light bulb did keep our butts from freezing to the seat. Nowadays they have temperature cubes and the like which turn on and off at diff. temps, I'm sure you will figure something out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tritium
I'm a Rumpole fan myself. (she who must be obeyed)
Wow. What part of TX are you in where it gets below 15 degrees on a regular basis? It has been down to about 17 here in PA so far in early December.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tritium
How often is it really above 120 degrees air temp?
A light bulb in the outhouse is good, but there is nothing more comfortable or warmer than a blueboard/styrofoam toilet seat. ( -30 Wisconsn approved! )Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer
My old shop had no heat and the cure was a tiny shed in the corner with a cheap pump house heater. It shut off at 40 degrees. It held the welders and other tools that should not freeze. I feel your pain, my new everlast just got kicked out of the dwelling and forced to reside in the garage by the woman who claims all furnished areas to be tool free. I think a tiny space heater and a insulated box would work well.
HeyThurmond! How about make a wooden cover for the unit. I'm thinking using 2x2 construction lumber, use the small metal corner braces available at the depot (cheaper then the hardware store) to hold things together, then sandwice some fiberglass insulation between 2 layers of particle board (or get snazzy and use the "tileboard" used in bathrooms) Make the box such that you can put a light bulb fixture- I saw these ones at the big box that have a 10" aluminum reflector and plug-in on 1 end for $8.00. stick in a 60-100 watt bulb, mount a $6.00 timer so the light is on only during the cold hours, and you're in business. Total material cost-about $65.00 for EVERYTHING. This is what we used to do for the water pump at an old farn that I want to work at as a kid. Only advice I can give you is 1. put some forethought into how to keep your box firesafe (clearance for the bulb-which is why I suggested the one with the reflector). 2. If you think it through, this could be put together in such a manner as to be broken down and stored over the warm months. Good Luck!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tritium
Foil faced ridgid foam insulation and duct tape would be cheap, light and easy to break down for storage.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooda
HeyThurmond! How about make a wooden cover for the unit. I'm thinking using 2x2 construction lumber, use the small metal corner braces available at the depot (cheaper then the hardware store) to hold things together, then sandwice some fiberglass insulation between 2 layers of particle board (or get snazzy and use the "tileboard" used in bathrooms) Make the box such that you can put a light bulb fixture- I saw these ones at the big box that have a 10" aluminum reflector and plug-in on 1 end for $8.00. stick in a 60-100 watt bulb, mount a $6.00 timer so the light is on only during the cold hours, and you're in business. Total material cost-about $65.00 for EVERYTHING. This is what we used to do for the water pump at an old farn that I want to work at as a kid. Only advice I can give you is 1. put some forethought into how to keep your box firesafe (clearance for the bulb-which is why I suggested the one with the reflector). 2. If you think it through, this could be put together in such a manner as to be broken down and stored over the warm months. Good Luck!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tritium
EDIT: SORRY! I SAW YOUR POST FIRST AND RESPONDED IMMEDIATELY WITHOUT ACTUALLY READING THE REST OF THE THREAD! SEEMS LIKE PLENTY OF FOLKS HAVE ALREADY GIVEN YOU THE SAME ADVICE! WELL, THAT MUST MEAN IT'LL WORK!:D
Temperature conditions do vary across the continent for sure...But so do rainfall conditions. Each must be prepared for. As far as I can tell we are about in line with other main line companies recommendations (If anyone has seen info contrary or much different from ours let me know, and I will discuss more with the factories).
Just as you wouldn't (I hope) consider leaving the unit out in the rain and plan for it, so must temperature be given the same consideration. The light bulb (incandescent..though getting hard to find) thing does work. A blanket or cover can help too...Shoot a styrofoam cooler turned up side down with a small light bulb in the top would work as well.
All great ideas for the cold which was around 5 F for a solid week last winter (teens and 20's are pretty frequent). I might add that I have acquired a device called a Thermocube Model TC-3 that has 2 outlets on it and will turn on a lamp (or other heat source up to 15A) in an enclosure at 35 F and off at 45 F (I use one in my pump house with heat lamps for freeze protection). I like the small box idea and have fiberglass foil faced Duct board and aluminum refrigeration tape I can use to build for the short term fix.
Summer here is another issue. The summer temps this year (near 101W by 33N) were above 105 many days and topped 116 on several making my steel shop building near 125 on more than one occasion. The duct board enclosure might work for summer since the cement slab could potentially keep its interior lower than ambient shop temps.
Rainfall. I have forgotten what that is like since we still have not had much for over a year now. 1/4" is a big rain now.
Thurmond
Interesting...especially since my unit is in transit for delivery as we speak...lows nearing 10 degrees tonight with 40 mph winds...hope ups has a light bulb on in the back of the truck....
Are these recommended temps for storage or for usage?
What allows vehicles to be out in cold weather with no problems? I'm sure they are full of electronics. My Miller Bobcat sits on the back of a truck outside with no problems ( -18 at the moment ), they even tell you what oil to use when its -30 ( 30 below zero ) or colder.
You only need to worry about electronics with electrolytic capacitors and some lcd screens.Quote:
Originally Posted by todmorg
True, but don't my truck and Bobcat welder have any electrolytic capacitors? I have a Syncrowave that has lived it life in a building that is unheated 95% of the time. I looked through the manuals and there is no mention of minimum storage temps. It has never given me any trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
Edit: Also, I see welders hanging from road construction cranes at night, year round.
Bobcats don't have as many tiny solenoids or relays with close tolerances that depend upon split second timing to open and close in conjunction with other operation.
Largely, the recommendation is for concerning overall operation, after reviewing some factory information, I have received. Reliable operation below that is not guaranteed. Mostly I know we are being conservative, but IF you look, at your auto dark helmets, I challenge you to find one that will operate below 14 degrees F (according to factory recommendation) or recommend long term storage below that. Storage can go lower, but IF you go below sub zero, you are asking for problems.
Yes, you see welders hanging from cranes at night....and you see guys driving around with their O/A cylinders uncapped...Jobsites pay little attention to owner's manuals, and guidelines in particular, like oil changes etc.
I guess I am wondering if I am damaging my other equipment by storing it outdoors. We hit 30 to 40 below quite often around here. I've searched for millers minimum recomended storage temps and found the same auto darken helmet info as you state, but nothing in the manuals or online about welder minimum storage temps. Do they use a different type of caps?Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
Air Conditioning condensers sits outside all winter long with electrolytic start caps, are they rated different than the Everlast caps?
I am asking about storage temps, not operating temps.
I've got piles of equipment in cold storage with capacitors, and even a large crate of spare power supply caps in cold storage.