A few 250ex questions (including a foot pedal one)

My 250ex arrive yesterday... And aside from one screw missing out of the back bezel, everything appears kosher. Couldn't be happier.
So I have a few questions.

1. The weird ### looking 220v plug on the back of the unit.
Is that a dedicated plug for the w300 water cooler? I didn't see anything in the PDF manual.

2. To switch between single and 3 phase. Do I need to manually do it, like on my old transformer Hobart? I have little experience with invrters...

3. I have a brand new pedal from a Lincoln Precision Tig 225.
It was given to me for free. It has a large 6 pin connector.
Anyone have any ideas on how to retrofit this to work on the 250ex?
I typically can't figure out wiring crap...
This pedal is perfect and would love to use it...

There is a thread on the wiring for the foot pedal. I am not sure if my you have a friend that is good with wiring or if you maybe could figure it out. I know you mentioned you are not real good with wiring but maybe this thread will help in some way.

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...p?t=805&page=1

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jason

There is a thread on the wiring for the foot pedal. I am not sure if my you have a friend that is good with wiring or if you maybe could figure it out. I know you mentioned you are not real good with wiring but maybe this thread will help in some way.

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...p?t=805&page=1

---

Yeah I've read through that...
I guess I should have asked where to start and if anyone had any input on it lol

wow - I ordered a 250ex a few weeks back...I hope I have something waiting for me when I get home today

I'm not certain but I don't think the potentiometer's are the same value between the Lincoln and Everlast pedals.

Bill,
They aren't.
Ours are 47k.
PinkNinja,
As the manual states, the red wire is for the 3 phase. It is left out of the way if it is not use. It is only for 220V 3 phase, keep that in mind.
The plug is for the cooler.

hmmm got home today and there was no 250ex waiting for me...Starting to wonder if 3 weeks is going to turn into 4 weeks

They willl e-mail you a tracking number when the welder ships out from California. Mine shipped about 4 weeks after I ordered it and was delivered by UPS.

I got mine within 7 day. Not sure why its taking you so long to get yours. Probably just a fluke. Hope this eases you to know that other people have gotten theirs without any issues.

dgarnier,

Our shipment won't be in until the end of the month.

hmm I was told 3 weeks 2 weeks ago...

I got my 250ex in three days, but i am in week six of the four week wait i was tld at the time of the order.......

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by performance

Bill,
They aren't.
Ours are 47k.
PinkNinja,
As the manual states, the red wire is for the 3 phase. It is left out of the way if it is not use. It is only for 220V 3 phase, keep that in mind.
The plug is for the cooler.

---

So to wire up a 220V plug for this, green is the ground, and the 220 lines are the black and white wires marked "1x220V" on each?

Thanks!

Thad

Thats how I wired mine up - and I just taped the red wire back so that it can not touch anything

Thad, yes. for single phase.

Okay, thanks guys, just got back from Menards with lots of stuff to wire this sucker up! YEE HA! LoL...

Oh, one other thing, I got a plug for the welder that matches my dryer plug, so for basic testing I can plug in there. Without doing any welding in that part of the house where the dryer is, what tests can I do with the welder? Anything beyond see that it actually turns on?

Just plugged 'er into the dryer outlet wired up as described, and this sucker seems NICE! (from what you can tell without actually welding anything, haha...)

Can't do much. You can cycle the pulse and watch the pulse cycle back and forth on the screen. You could stick your tongue to the....Never mind, nix that....

Did all that! (minus the tongue part -- Haha...)

One follow-up question: I just noticed the plug I used had instructions in the box (D'oh!), and it specified to have the white (neutral) wire attached to the center terminal where I attached the green (ground) wire from the welder. I'm a bit mystified about the differentiation between neutral and ground, but I gather it's fine for us to connect a "ground" wire from the welder to a "neutral" wire of the house.... ? Yes?

Yea, Everlast stuff is nice. I really like my ex also :)

You can test pre and post flow, main fan, amp knob changing amps on display. Testing the HF is doable, but a bit more complicated. It would involve installing a separate grounding rod (another thing you can get at Menards) and connectig that to the grounding lug on the rear of the chassis. Leave the work clamp off, connect the torch to the (-) lug, hold the torch+tungsten about 1/16" away from the ground lug and hit the switch. Don't be tempted to let it jump to yourself. It will if you let it; just don't it.

If the area where the dryer is, is suitable for welding, you can certainly use a dryer outlet for welding. You can also build an extension cord. 30' of #10awg only drops 1.2% of the voltage at 47 amps. #12awg still only drops 1.9%. At today's copper prices, that won't be ultra cheap, but it will certainly be cheaper than having an electrician run a line, since he will need the copper anyway. The NEC states that wires must not drop more than 3%. So you're good with the #12. Read more here; http://www.electricianmath.com/conve...roppercent.htm

If you have not already, download the manual and familiarize yourself with it.
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/do...wertiggen2.pdf

Thank you for the info Parkour! BTW, I posted up simultaneous to you some wiring questions as an EDIT to my post prior to yours. If you can shed any light into the darkness of my wiring knowledge I'd be appreciative. ;-)

I did get 15ft of 8/3 wire at Menards so I can "T" into the dryer line in the basement and make myself a drop in the newer part of my basement with the same outlet as the dryer. I'm planning to get a welding table of some sort setup down there so I can get started on some light TIG work while I'm getting some line run out to my garage where I currently only have 110V. I think I have a nearly 50ft run to the garage, and then my workshop is in the third bay away from the location where the wiring enters the garage...... I guess that's not gonna be cheap. I'll check out that electricianmath site for sure!

Regarding the manual, I have what I think is the current one from the Everlast site, but it just didn't seem real clear on the wiring. I mean, the basic information is there: red is for 3-phase, and green is ground, but for a dunce like me it is nice to have a bit more confirmation of not screwing stuff up.

Thanks again!

Thad

EDIT Re: the manual. The version I downloaded from the website last night is not nearly as helpful as the one you linked, thanks!!!

Yes, connecting the welder's ground to the "neutral" wire is correct. The dryer plug is probably a 3 prong model with a "neutral", but no "ground". In this situation, the difference between ground and neutral is inconsequential. I think you have it right. The green goes to the center terminal, the white and black go to the outside terminals, and the red is just taped off and put to the side.

You can use http://powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm to compute the voltage drop at a length of run of a certain gage of wire. It has a nice JavaScript calculator at the bottom (that I used for the info I posted above).

Glad to see you bought an Everlast tjabo...


P. S

This is atutt from Honda-Tech

Thanks man! Now I just need for my tungstens to come in and get enough time to do some welding!!!

Sure. :)

What kind of tungsten did you order?

I ordered some 3/32" 2% Lanthanated tungstens, and an assortment of gas lenses and cups. The gas lenses and cups arrived today, but the tungstens are still enroute I guess...

This makes me think there may be a fairly standard 220V plug I should have used instead of the one for the stove.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/HEAVY-DUTY-50-AM...item2565f27ec1

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/HEAVY-DUTY-50...MIiG!~~0_3.JPG

I've seen that one. That looks like an over grown 120v plug :P

Ah yes, Lanthanated; my personal favorite.

I think you did the right thing. Unless you're looking to interoperate somewhere else; with some other electrical plugs, you might as well use what you already have at hand and then spend the least money necessary to get up and running.

I won't be plugging the welder into the dryer plug I used for testing it to see if it turned on, I just plan to drop an outlet into the basement from the wire that goes to the dryer. Only the dryer or the welder will be used at any one time, so I think it should be fine as far as the circuit is concerned. The truth is, I'm ignorant about wiring for 220V (I know, I'm stating the obvious), and I just wanted to do something to start my learning process, even if it was just to see if I could wire up the stinking plug correctly enough to get the welder to turn on and show the proper number of amps on the readout.

Anyway, all I am out at this point is the cost of the dryer style plug. I have an old friend that is a phenomenal welder (does a lot of work for funny cars, top fuel cars, and NASCAR teams) who I might some day drop in on to have him lay down some beads with the Everlast. It would be nice to just put the right plug on this sucker if there is a truly standard one for USA made brands that he would use, and then I'll just use the appropriate outlet on my welder lines in the basement and eventually the garage.

Anyone know if the one in the pic is really a standard style plug for a Miller or something like the add says? I'm inclined to believe it.

Thanks!

I wish I could get people to read the manuals that are posted online:(. It would answer a lot of questions.

NEMA 6-50 IS the standard for most single phase welders and plasma cutters up to 80 amps or so draw.(Nema allows derating for duty cycle). If that is a 240 extension plug for a welder, then it is a 6-50. The plug configuration does appear to be one.

The picture shows the NEMA 6-50 plug, the one we have always recommended. The cords can be had for around $100 on Amazon.

As stated in many other posts there is not a standard butthe 6-50 is the most common, or the 10-50.
Thats what I have for my personal set up as well.

Here's the manual Mark is referring to...
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/do...wertiggen2.pdf

Unrelated to the plug.

I pefer 1.5% lanthanated and ceriated over everything else. Haven't tried hybrid yet.
Not to crazy about 2% lanthanated.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PinkNinja

Unrelated to the plug.

I pefer 1.5% lanthanated and ceriated over everything else. Haven't tried hybrid yet.
Not to crazy about 2% lanthanated.

---

Maybe this is why the 2% Lanthanated ones are relatively hard to come by... So do they act/perform differently when welding, or is it really just a question of how well they hold their shape?

Check out this from weldingtipsandtricks on the selection of tungsten

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...odes-gtaw.html

That video is exactly why I got the 2% Lanthanated ones. I'm curious what people see in the characteristics of the different tungstens other than the ability to hold shape.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tjabo

That video is exactly why I got the 2% Lanthanated ones. I'm curious what people see in the characteristics of the different tungstens other than the ability to hold shape.

---

Ability to start an arc can also vary radically between tungsten types. (Such as comparing say, zirconiated vs lanthanated.)

Jake,
Which kind of tungsten do generally prefer; or which one/s do you prefer under what/which conditions?

I get lanthanated and I prefer the 2% although 1.5% is a little cheaper and just about as good. I do have some 2% thoriated and found that it does not perform as well as lanthanated at least for me.

I have two sizes that fit 99% of the welding I do. I really like the 1/16 inch for thin metal welding projects and 3/32 for everything else. I have found that you need to match the size of the electrode to the thickness of the metal. It is just about as important as amperage and all the other settings.