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I did a lot research and this seemed to be the best way to go since I am using a PP60C. The guy at Eagle Plasma said that it gets more accurate as you use it more. It develops algorithms and makes the adjustments needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
that's a good price . working on my tracer this weekend so can make my plates to ride on the beams for the cnc table . got some pics so can run some prints to trace from .Attachment 6934 look fairly easy to make all ready have all the bearings and bolts and spacers.. bought a 100 roller bearings that should be enough lol
I read your original email wrong, I thought you said you bought a 100 bearing roller. I didn't think you would have actually bought 100 units! LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
Attachment 6936Attachment 6935 bought 100 of these roller bearings . got a 100 for 55 dollars
Did a little machining today to make some eccentric bearing studs. Used on a CNC table for those who want to make their own.
Eccentrics instead of slots for the bearing adjustments.
Have fun
Tom
send me the ebay location were you got them
lol never thought of making some eccentric on my lathe . way to go cool
That is pretty cool. Great idea. Have you used eccentrics to make adjustments before? I'm curious how well they keep a set adjustment and whether they slip over time.
they hold very well as long as clocked the rite direction. as rite direction excentric has to be in the direction as tightening on the bolt so it don't un tighten
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120901764266...84.m1423.l2649
6001-2rs bearings
I finally started working on my gantry this morning! I have my 4 corner tubes and plates welded up; I also took some time to make sure everything is square.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...6-22105331.jpg
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I'm not going to weld the plates to gantry rails; I'm going to drill holes and bolt them using flat head cap screws. I'm not sure that my carriages will fit on rails if I weld the plates on the rails. I also want to make sure I have adjustment built in for my X measurement. I have some welding to do, and I want to be able to square everything together when I'm finished.
That is a good idea to build in some adjustability. I expect just moving it can cause some slight twist. Is that your 140ST...it is small.
ken
Yep! Don't let the size fool ya!Quote:
Originally Posted by KSmith
Are you running the 140ST with 120V? Titan Witch said that max output was about 84amps with that input power. I have one of the harbor freight 80amp DC inverter (120volt only) welders, and know that it is a good performer within limits. I feel that 3/32 rod is a bit much for it, and use it when I can burn 1/16 or 5/64 rod, lighter materials. It is about the size of a lunchbox. Not sure if they even sell the same unit anymore at HF (edit: I looked and it is still sold). If using the 140ST with 220v with output of 140amps, it really must percolate.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMurphy265
ken
I run 3/32 rods 7018 & 7014 all the time on 110v. I sold that HF welder to get my Power Arc 140st, and I was amazed at the difference in power. It's good for smaller stuff on 110v, and I use it quite a bit for tacking and fitting things together. I use it more than any other welder I own. I do a little dc tigging wit it here and there as well. For the money you cannot beat it! It will jump up there and weld 1/8 7018 at 125-30 amps with no problems.
I can see it would be a great deal, with the 220v capability, lifttig torch and ability, carrying case, digital readout, extra power. Good for me to hear, that you can compare to your old HF 80amp too. For 130 bucks more than the HF welder, you are getting a huge increase in useability with the 140ST. A good value. If I needed it I would get one at the price, but wanting to move all the way up to the 200DX.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMurphy265
ken
Got some work done today, I'm nearing the end of the fabrication phase. I'll be glad to get to the electronics phase!
I decided it would be better to bolt the plates on instead of welding them. This will allow me to slide my carriages on and off without taking them apart on the rails.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...6-23134818.jpg
I needed to make sure my rails are properly spaced and the gantry would slide without getting in a bind.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...6-23151245.jpg
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I was going to drill and tap holes for set screws; needless to say that sucks! I'm going to use the double sided tape that was required. I may go back and add set screws and loctite.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...6-23155100.jpg
Double sided tape with rivet at each end should do the job,,,the next phase of aligning it all so it doesn't bind and has the proper gear mesh will need a dial guage for that,,,been there done that,,,lots of fun making it all run smooth...looking good Shaun..
Well... I thought I was finished spending money on this project....
I ordered a refurb XP desktop from Walmart.com for $136.96
I had to order one 5' gear rack (I mis-figured), 2 rolls of 3m double sided tape, socket head cap screws( for my floating X axis to bolt to my x carriage), some spacers 1/2", and a 10-32 self taping drill bit @ $122.08
Previous total $2,998.95
New Total.......$3,257.99
I probably will end up getting a monitor for $100.00, my hope is that everything else will be paid for by the table.
Hi Sean,
Any chance of Getting a Copy of your Plans?
Thanks in advance