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Hi Gabe,Quote:
Originally Posted by bobwills
Yes, just remove it. It's no longer needed for your application.
You can save it for a rainy day. If you have an older vehicle with that type of alternator and the Idiot Light on the dash glows dimly when the engine is running, chances are the diode trio is faulty and you'll have a replacement.
Cheers,
rivets
Well i went ahead and removed it. And it did just what I needed. When i turned the field off the output went off. But it wasnt putting near the output out it needed to be puting out. Only a little over 1 volt and before it was 50 something. But i only had 2 amps running to it. Next chance i get to work with it i will try 10 amps or something. But i also grounded out the voltage regulator. Not sure if it needed to be cause with it i already was getting over 50 volts.
You might want to try one change at a time. That way you know what does what, to what. Do you get "what" I mean? Seriously that's a lot of "whats". Since your diode trio is gone you should be pumping out 3 phase AC depending on what you have done it may only be single phase. So try flipping you meter to AC volts and take reading, you should be making quite a bit of voltage. Even 120V right out of the wall has up to 5VDC piggy backing on the AC sine wave. If you are getting 28+ volts AC try getting a 3/32" rod to burn at full blast what ever you can do. If you want to make it DC you'll need to get a big rectifier ~ 100 AMP - 600V rated probably cost some where between 30-60 bucks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by I_Love_Plasma
ILP,
No.
His diode rectifier bridge (6 heavy duty diodes in the case) is still intact.
His output is DC if that bridge is OK.
The diode trio was only to supply DC to the rotor coil via the regulator.
He is now supplying DC to the rotor coil via a controlled external source.
Cheers,
rivets
Yeah the diod trio did what i needed it to and thats to make it to where it is controlable by a riostat not by engine speed. And might just need to kick up the amps on charger. And i made it to where the regulater is grounded to the outside so i can just unhook it if i test it with it not grounded so i dont have to take the thing apart again.
Oh I see now thanks for the clarification. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivets
Cheers,
ILP
Hi Gabe,Quote:
Originally Posted by bobwills
The alternator output is determined by BOTH the alternator RPM, AND the Field Current as applied through your rheostat.
Also, remember that at the end of the day, it's not the regulator itself that needs to be grounded, but one end of your rotor coil. The grounding lug on the regulator is just a convenient test point.
One end of your rotor shaft has two copper slip rings and two associated brushes. Electrically, the simplest way is to ground one of the brush wires and connect your rheostat control to the other brush wire. That's it. The regulator has no longer any function electrically and can be completely ignored. It can even be removed if it allows you to perform the brush connections that I just mentioned.
HTH,
rivets
I read your post about you only getting negligible voltage with 2 amps applied to the field. There is something wrong with your setup. If I apply 2 amps to my field I have enough power at the torch to weld .030-.045" steel. I know your alternator has a lower amperage rating than mine does but you should still be more than 1v at the output. I still think you are better off finding a 90A(They make aftermarket ones with more power) Chrysler alternator from a '90s car with the 3.0L Mitsubishi engine. The Chrysler alternators have no regulator and the two terminals on the back of the alternator go directly to the brushes and into the field coils. I think it would be much easier for you to get it wired up and working that way rather than having to worry about the internal mods you are having to do with this one.
Rivets im kinda understanding. It will make more since when i dig in it tomarrow or whenever though cause i can see it. And before i did anything I was getting 50+ volts. But something changed now and aint right. So i put it back together the way it was and still not getting the 50 volts. Just 1 or so. Thats why im wondering if the little things with a spring behind it that rub on the shaft when it spins arnt getting out of place of something when I pull the paper clip out after putting it back together. Im not sure why I cant get the output back out that I was getting. Guess i should of just left it alone and not take it apart. And it would be nice to have one of those but the one I got was free so thats a plus.
Gabe,Quote:
Originally Posted by bobwills
Those "little things with a spring behind" are the brushes that I spoke about in my last post. And yes, they should rub on the two copper slip rings that are on the shaft.
Don't worry about taking things apart. That's how you learn. Keep at it !
Cheers,
rivets
Ok thats what they are. I always thought brushes would look more brush like. Lol. And I will keep trying. Somethings not right in there now. But hopefully just do something to fix it taking it apart again. But wont get to work on it for another week now so it will be a fresh start with it.
If you run wires from outside the case directly to the brushes on the inside of the alternator you'd be bypassing the regulator and putting your power directly to the brushes/field so you wouldn't have to worry about whether or not you defeated the regulator properly.
I agree with blasphemy000, but there is a diode in the regulator, so the field will have to be powered with the correct polarity.
Ok i see what you mean I think. Do you run the field exciter wire to the brushes or the output to it. And if i do that do I need to unhook it from the regulator or is there no need to.
To the brushes. You can leave it hooked to the regulator.