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That can is a gas discharge tube. Very much like a sealed spark gap. It is typically used for input protection from things like lightning strikes and other over voltage events. Kinda a clever use of it as a point gap for an HF board. Depending on how thick the ceramic can is, the light obviously can shine through it, if thin enough.
So is that the "points" or are they elsewhere? Sure seems like a delicate part the way the light flickers through it.
It looks like that has replaced the points. Depends on what you mean by delicate. Electrically that thing is as tough as nails. You could blow every chip in the machine and that part would probably survive. Physically it is a sealed ceramic piece, so you could break it with enough force. Mounted inside the machine it would be hard to break, without doing a lot of other damage, first. A lot of ceramics let some light through. It should provide greater consistency, as there are no exposed points that must be set by hand, and are subject to getting bumped around during assembly and in transport.
Very clever, using a gas discharge tube (aka lightning protector and in the day $$$).
First I have seen. Bad news, you are not going to adjust that part and like Ram said, they are tough as nails so I would not think it died, but never know. I have metal ones I use on projects as well and have seen them shot out of a circuit board hit by lightning. Would not want to be there when it happened.
But very clever, I do not get to see in the machines much anymore, but that make the points a non-failure point (no pun)
that seems like good news to me, i was not happy about having to adjust the points, at some point.
Point well taken. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by WhitsonMetal
rivets
I have the 325ext. I just tap my tungsten on the work. Works every time for me. Makes a tiny little spark, then smack the pedal and off I go.
I have a new June, 2015 255ext, I just got to test the machine this past weekend and ran into this E04 error. Long story short it was user error in my opinion, contamination of the tungsten. I had a buddy over and we were both running test beads on stainless. Being noobs we dipped the tungsten into the puddle more than once, I had 5 tungsten's on the bench and we were regrinding them throughout the test. The E04 error seemed random until we had cycled through all the tungstens then it wouldn't strike and arc even on a freshly reground tungsten. The issue is I was not regrinding the very tip of the tungsten just the sides. This seemed like a conductivity issue so the next time I got an E04 error I swiped the tip with some 220 grit sandpaper, just scratched it once or twice, bang it struck an arc no problem. So I started grinding about half the tip off the tungsten from there on out after contamination and we never had another E04 error until we again dipped the tungsten into or too close to the puddle and contaminated it. By the way I had the gas up fairly high, 20cfph and was running 6 seconds pre and post flow.
Here's the interesting part. We had been using the water cooled torch with the switch on the torch, which made it a lot more difficult to steady the torch. When we switched to the foot pedal that allowed us a couple three fingers free to steady the torch, we stopped dipping the tungsten into the puddle, maintained a steady stand off, and both the E04 errors and contaminated tungsten issues went away. Hence I'm saying user error in my case.
As you figured out, there can't be a plating of crud on the tip of your tungsten. Also, you typically need less than a second of preflow, so that will help as the arc will start just after you hit the pedal or switch, and not come as a surprise, 6 seconds later. You may need to raise your postflow a little depending on how much current you are using. You want the postflow to last as long as your tungsten is red hot and a little bit more. Otherwise it will pick up some contamination from the air as it cools and can also cause hard starting. When using the torch switch, it sometimes helps to prop the cup on the workpiece, so you can precisely hold the proper arc gap, then hit the switch. That way pressing the switch doesn't cause you to move the torch. Be sure you have a good place to prop your torch hand, too. One of the big keys to good TIG welding is precise torch control.Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolidge
Agree post flow could be increased as the metal is still glowing a bit after 6 seconds during practice. The torch switch and I just won't play well together dexterity wise, I'd rather have that switch mounted to my table in 4T mode so I can operate it with my filler metal hand or just use the foot pedal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
Agree you really need a steady hand controlling the torch, I have a BuildPro table so that gives me endless opportunities for fixturing something to rest/slide my hand against. I was using the edge of the table after switching to the foot pedal, it worked great. I have to say both my buddy and I were amazed how nice a weld a couple TIG noobs could put down after just a short bit of practice. I invested weeks of practice into my Lincoln 210MP MIG, just hours and hours and was never able to run a bead like I did with the 255ext within an hour. The machine is quiet, the welding is quiet, nice smooth stable arc, no spatter, no mess, easy to control. I felt the MIG was a grip it and rip it machine, the TIG is a lot slower allowing me more control. Super happy at this point.
Hello i have a new 255ext picked it up july 23 2015 with HF start problem its one day old it is also has the intermittent problem did you guy get it fixed? if so what do i need to do to resolve this problem its not good to have on a day old machine thanks