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Lucky you, mine aren't scheduled to get here til Monday:(. Somehow I got the notion that "Big Sky" tools might be shipping out of Montana. Maybe it was the picture of the mountain.Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
I dunno, if that was an invite link we clicked on, he didn't come away empty handed. :) http://bigskytool.com/Referral.aspxQuote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
Mine got to Florida fast. Maybe they have a Miami warehouse?Quote:
Originally Posted by redbeard
I hope Jake got something for the tip to us.. Figure under $28 and 5 free grinding wheels as well. Hard for HF to beat.
FedEx tracking says they shipped from NORCROSS, GA. I didn't see the grinding wheels listed as a bonus when I ordered, hope we all get them, that's just icing.Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
Hey guys, that link I posted is accessible off BigSky's main page. If I were out for commissions, I would have disclosed that to you guys. I just wanted to pass on a good deal to my fellow Everlasters. :) Hope you guys enjoy the grinders!
Regarding the wheels, yes, each grinder should include several grinding wheels in the case. Number may vary, but probably in the range of three to five. If you're lucky you'll also get the "optional" printed instruction manual.
Don't get too excited about the grinding wheels, though. The top hole is too large, so they don't run balanced at all, and are barely usable, IMO. Too bad they didn't put the pressed metal centering ring insert on the top of the wheel hole instead of the bottom side - it would have eliminated the issue. Plan on running a better quality wheel or disc instead.
I have 5 in each. The cases were not expected either, though I have packed them away. I did only receive one manual. But the manual was not much to look at anyway.
Very happy with the purchase. Thanks again Jake.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeru
I got mine, with case and 5 grinding wheels. I haven't tried the wheels, but the arbor has a stepped bushing on teh top AND the nut also as a stepped bushing on it, so maybe it will center the wheels.
I can't remember how long it has been since I even used a grinding wheel, I've been using all flap and cutoff wheels.
I don't need another grinder but I was thinking about getting one anyway. I guess I waited too long because they are now out-of-stock. Wasn't meant to be but too bad because them grinders happen to be green ....
Got mine this morning, too. Gave one a quick test and it runs nice and smooth even with the included wheels. Like Sportbike mentioned, the nut has a locator for the wheels, so they run true. As Jake said, the nut is on the thick side, so I might turn it down a little. I'll wait and see it it's ever an issue with flap discs and the like. The switch is a little different and the spring is stronger than my others. The case is great and can hold a bunch of spare discs. They look virtually new, so I'm not sure if this is reman, or more open box. Thanks again for the tip, Jake.
Attachment 10184 Attachment 10185
Didn't intend any negative implications with my comment. I really appreciate the heads up Jake, Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeru
Attachment 10203 Close, your camera may vary.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr120
Found mine on the porch when I got home this afternoon too, yea FedEx! Mine are DEFINITELY reman units, the best looking one had a couple small scuffs on the gearbox and the handle has a bit of runout when you go to thread it in. The other was obviously rode pretty hard, there is caked up white power in the crevices and under the switch and a puff of white came out when I fired it up the first couple times. It is also missing the nut and the backer.:( IMHO that one should have been graded a "B", but I know reman is a crapshoot, especially by mail order.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambozo
On the plus side, there were 4 wheels in each one and they do both run mighty smooth so I'm still pretty happy with them so far. I like the switch style too. Time will tell when they start getting some spark throwing under their belts.
White powder in crevices... missing the nut and the backer... puff of white powder... sounds like that one skipped a few steps in the process. With everyone else reporting such good results, I think I'd call in and ask for a replacement. If nothing else you paid for class A and got B; at some level they should know their process has (or appears to have) a problem.
One of my two looked like it was packed by someone in a hurry, the other was packed by a person that packed it like store bought "and" dropped in a manual that really offered nothing to boot.
But like Ram said, mine looked mint so either way I'm happy with both. Almost to nice to get dirty like my others, RIGHT.
They run smooth, switch locks very well so happy there (will try not drop it on me). And the color matches all my welders LOL.
Also, I popped a cutting wheel on one (metal center retainer type) and their grinding wheel on the other with the nut extrusion side down. Both run true for me. I will try their grinding wheel, but sure I will be putting a flap wheel on it soon (like SB said, can't beat a flap wheel other than cost).
I figure all the grinding wheels can be use once on some aluminum projects.
Good idea Dave, I was just going to email and ask for the parts, but I think I will call Monday and express my disappointment. Thinking about it some more, they probably grade based on how scratched the housing is, and it is really pretty good in that respect. Still should have been cleaned better though.
I was pleasantly surprised to find the warranty from Hitachi is a full year on these guys, not bad at all for a reman product. Maybe I'll have to try really, really hard to kill it.
One of mine had some engraved marks in the top of the die-cast gear casing. But it was totally mint aside from that. It was a bit curious. But I'm not complaining. :)
I should have struck while the iron was hot. I'll keep my eyes open for next time. My current grinders have a lot of slop and vibration.
These must be getting returned by outfits that are in theft-prone situations, one of mine had "A6" engraved on the serial plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeru
Yeah, these are well worth it. Plenty of cajones - barely bogs when I mash down on the cup brush and quite smooth to boot. I may just have to get a couple more if they come back at this price again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr120
I went to the local Lowe's, and looking to the ones on display and I got the Hitachi G18SS 7" 15Amp, there was also a DeWalt 13Amp it was lighter, but the Hitachi have a better feel in my hands is twice heavy though. I love it
Only problem I have with mine... When I got them they looked brand new, now they don't. ;)
Mine work great.
I don't see myself moving away from my paddle switch but has anyone compared these to dewalts? I have a dewalt paddle switch and have been using one for about 5 years.
I have both a DeWalt paddle switch and a DeWalt slide switch models. Both are 10 plus years old, and slightly worn out. So the new ones seem smoother, but that is just the new bearings. The DeWalts with the slide switch has a slightly better switch, or I'm just more used to it. The paddle version is a slightly stronger motor by specs, but it's hard to tell from using. One thing I noticed right off is that the DeWalts are labeled AC/DC while the Hitachis are not. I have yet to take one apart to verify that they are true universal motors and there is nothing that is going to go pop if I plug them in to my SA200. As I have mentioned before I like the different switches for different jobs. I don't like that it is hard to hold on tight to the paddle model while at the same time letting off the switch. It all depends on conditions, one hand or two, kind of wheel, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason
I agree that there is a big difference to using the 7" models. I don't own any at the moment, but have used a lot. They seem to always require two hands, but can really rip and tear, and are great with things like wire cup brushes. I liked the older ones that were heavier with all metal construction, for most jobs.
I think it's all preference. I don't like the paddle switch, but it's far safer. I do like the slide and rocker switch on the Hitachi, but once locked on it is ON, so hang on to it. It is a little heavy as well, but sound.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason
The SWITCH,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I didn't pay much attention to the switch, I went to Lowe's thinking about getting a DeWalt, but I got the Hitachi because is GREEN so it will match my PowerARC 300 :D
Hmm I have never found it hard to hold on to the paddle switch but I tend to hold the switch with my thumb or 1-2 fingers depending on angle. Knock on Wood, I have never dropped one either so I guess I really don't need to worry about it. I just find I like the paddle switch better. Any comparison preferences over versatility (probably not noticable?) and noise levels or anything like that those. I have used one with a switch in the same location as the Hitachi but I didn't want to lock it on so it was kind of a pain to try and work with. I tend to like knowing I have full control over the power tools after bing a teachers aid for a beginners wood working class in high school:O.. Those kids scare the crap out of people especially after one getting his hand in a drum sander, kick backs off the 5hp table saws and accidental router injuries.
I'd hate to be a wood working instructor in a high school for exactly the reasons you mentioned. I wouldn't want to be the one in charge of the class if someone lost a finger doing something stupid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason
High school students doing something stupid? No way. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr120
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajNdLT4exps
That hurt to watch.
OMG! ... and then they played it back in slow-mo .... ! I stopped it as soon as the slow-mo version started. I guess there is a reason I'm not a surgeon.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoama585
Pretty sure those kids were unsupervised that day, unless the instructor was the camera man. What was the game, "I'm stronger than a lathe"? The bolt or whatever starts to bend just as the kid loses it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr120
DaveO, been a rough week for me, so thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveO
I'm not laughing, but "unless the instructor was the camera man" cracked me up for some reason. But in real life he probably could not work the camera :D.
That makes the belt sander races we had look absolutely tame in comparison.
That video is crazy.
Looks like they're currently out of stock on this grinder. I guess I'll have to wait to get one. While they may not be the greatest, I've been happy with my hitachi M12VC router and I also have an older Hitachi miter saw that's had no real problems in the 8 years that I've had it.
The video is like a smooth MMA take-down and tap-out :D Great title "Lathe vs Idiot" Good find Ram and I hope he was OK...
His body goes out of frame a bit when he went over but it looked like his leg twisted the "right" way when he went to the other side. Good thing because I don't think knee joints would normally bend 90 degrees both ways.Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
Yep. It appears that he may be alright. I'd hope he learned an important lesson from it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr120
I bet most of us are pretty lucky that our high school lessons didn't extract a higher price in life and limb than they did.Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen
I am thinking about putting a smaller wheel to my G18SS. I was thinking to return it, but this thing has some serious guts and is the same color as my PowerARC 300, I found this on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Black-Gr...+guard+4+1%2F2
What do you guy think?
Not so much the size of the wheel as the weight. While a 7" can sure remove metal in a hurry, at almost 10 pounds, it's pretty much a two handed operation. The 4.5" weigh less than half that so one handed use is totally possible, great for things like flap wheels and such. They even have 4" models that are even lighter. Also the wheel speed increases as the size goes down, so a 4.5 wheel won't be spinning at it's ideal speed on a 7" grinder. I am totally happy with the 4.5" Hitachi linked to here. Unless you are grinding heavy structural steel like 1/2" thick or better, a 7" is overkill. I do like them for large cup brushes for smoothing off large surfaces. The extra weight keeps them more stable and the extended handle is nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by DXN1EL
I've got a 7" HF that I use with 24 grit flap disks... that thing really takes off the metal.
I run 7" wheels on my 9" and run 4" flaps on my 4.5" (cheaper) and I've not had a problem. Just make sure you check the max RPMs of the disk and the tool and you should be fine. All (6 now) grinders I have, have protectors on them. I have never had one come apart, but I know two people that have (both hurt pretty badly as well).Quote:
Originally Posted by DXN1EL
Sure this will strike up some stories.
My only concern I have is if I replace my 7" wheel with a 4 1/2" can the guard still perform it's job?Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
Maybe not quite as good as a smaller guard, but since 7" wheels are routinely used until worn down to 4.5" or smaller, it will still cover the edge of the wheel. I can see it being in the way a lot, too. You might compare the amount of wheel depression between 4.5" and 7" to see if the 7" guard is going to obstruct things too much. I'm not sure you can swap guards, you will have to measure the place where the guard attaches and see.Quote:
Originally Posted by DXN1EL