for aluminum balled and for steel pointed? 2 percent lanthanated? can you elaborate on that?
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The issue with contaminated gas accounts for about 85-90% of all complaints.
Don't use a balled tungsten on AC. Use a pointed one, or a point with a slight truncation on the end, only a slight one is needed if at all for that amount of amperage...Balls destabilize the arc, and not recommended at all. Lanthanated is fine. To get a new torch, just call in to ext 202 and tell them the specifics.
they may claim bad gas but i am not buying it.
i use 2 percent lanthanated. my question is is he switching to DCEP to ball his tungsten like the old days? and if so why. this would be a user that i would expect to go the bad gas route.
hmm can't keep up with the editing.
Well, when they change cylinders the problem disappears. I see this sometimes several times a month with different customers.
The customer stated he was using 90% ep, which would ball the tungsten initially...until it was readjusted.
Actually I was typically would sharpen my tungsten to a point to weld Aluminum but when I was welding today and put the balance to 30% it balled instantly. That didn't happen when I was up in the high %'s. I honestly thought the proper way was to have a balled point. I just tried to weld and it balled so I kept going thinking that was normal.
Do you have the torch in the negative side?
After carefully studying the sideways picture of the welder you posted, you do not...There's a detail about it in the manual with a picture. Always EN for the torch even when you are welding aluminum. Put the torch in the negative (right) side.
No, do not use it or you will melt it. Whoever told you it was good for 150 amps was wrong! Create a rudimentary cooling system with a water hose and some fittings. Talk about contamination.
I would wait on the new torch. The air you pull in will just mess up the welds.
If it happens when you get the new torch, Mark's not kidding about contaminated gas. It's the bulk of the calls on contaminated welds, or a back cap loose letting air in (or missing/bad o-ring in the cap).
The CK is $ but a very nice torch and hose. If you plan on doing a lot of welding, I too recommend it.
On the water cooling, hook up the hose or tap to it, done it for too many years to count. Get a arc flow (as Mark would say) "about like a water fountain" and just drain it outside the shop or in a sink. See below.
Attachment 11252
There's a number of ways to adapt the torch. It doesn't take a lot of flow so you aren't wasting a lot of water.
Old school shops have done it this way for years. If you've ever walked into an old welding shop there's a water spigot right beside the refrigerator TIG sized welder, and a floor drain right next to it.
This isn't anything new...and works just fine...especially if you've got some flowers that need watering.
Well I tried the water cooled torch. Doesn't seem any different as it was before. I guess the next step is to check for bad gas. If I had bad gas would I still be able to weld steel nicely? After I welded some aluminum I threw down some nice beads on steel with no problem. Well here is the picture of the welds.
Attachment 11254Attachment 11255
Could you post a picture of the tungsten sticking out of the torch and the steel welds. What was your arc length ?
Your problem is largely coming from the metal in this picture. You can see the discoloration on the metal in that light. This is not cleaned well, not even close... Whatever is causing the discoloration, whether rust from a piece of steel, or laying in the dirt etc, this piece of metal is not cleaned well enough to start welding.